My First Jeep CJ

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by Creekin, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
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  2. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Started on to work on the passenger side.
    The body mounts were also shot, but the metal overall is in a little better shape.
    The rear body mount metal looks to be the worst of the group (i.e., had the worst/best iron weight reduction package option).

    IMG_7349.JPG

    Had to fabricated some new metal and use some weld through primer.

    IMG_7351.JPG IMG_7352.JPG

    The small plate with the weld primer is there to stiffen up the 18 gauge sheet metal that the square nut sits on.
    The stiffener was welded to the new sheet metal and then the assembly was welded to the Jeep.

    IMG_7355.JPG

    Hopefully, some time will free up to work on the other mounts soon.
     
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  3. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had some time to work on the rest of the body mounts on the passenger side.
    The bolts were in ruff shape.

    IMG_7410.JPG

    While trying to get the bolt that was underneath the passenger side off, it broke.
    The only way to get the square nut out when then happens is to cut into the floorboard or the cross member.
    Luckily, the blue flame wrench trick and vice grips worked!

    IMG_7412.JPG IMG_7411.JPG

    The area on the front side of the wheel well for tub needed some help
    IMG_7409.JPG

    Time for some more 18 gauge sheet metal and some bending to make a patch panel

    IMG_7417.JPG
    A piece of 1/8" steel was added to stiffen up the patch panel

    IMG_7423.JPG l IMG_7420.JPG

    The perch that the body mount sits onto needed some help as well

    IMG_7408.JPG

    The patch panel was welded into position
    IMG_7424.JPG IMG_7425.JPG IMG_7426.JPG

    Now all body mount bushings have been replaced and should work for a long time.

    The gas tank will have to be installed again, then its back to the brakes.
     
  4. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had to address one area on the left rear section of the frame (that iron oxide weight reduction option keeps me busy).

    Made a couple of plates (turned out only one was needed)

    IMG_7441.JPG

    Then a bit of welding and a bunch of grinding later

    IMG_7469.JPG

    Luckily, the passenger side is in good shape.

    Now onto removing the rest of the bed liner material from the tub so a coat of POR-15 can be applied.

    One lesson learned from my limited experience with CJ's... bedliner material is great, but its all about the prep.
    Based on the work done during prep, bedliner material is really great at trapping moisture between itself and the metal, which naturally leads to more rust.
    A lot of folks recommend applying a primer before applying the liner material.
    I am hoping that removing the old bedliner, removing the surface rust, applying POR-15 and then applying new bedliner material will keep A_Kelly's iron oxide weight reduction option in check.
     
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  5. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    As the work continues to remove the bed liner material from the tub, more iron oxide has been discovered.
    One bad spot is on the drivers side under the roll bar
    At some point in the life of the jeep, it appears that someone attempted to put some kind of filler that did not work.
    Of course the bed liner did a nice job of covering up the holes and the rust.

    This is what is there with the bed liner removed.

    Left RB.JPG

    Time now for some more sheet metal fabrication, cutting, and welding...
     
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  6. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    Mine can't be that bad, but that's why I only cleaned up the front floor pans. I'm not tearing into the rear, as long as caulking & undercoating, keeps the water out! :shaking:
     
  7. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had time to remove some rust behind the drivers seat.
    I think that my mortal enemy will always be iron oxide.

    To remove that portion of the floorboard, the body on the drivers side had to be lifted up again.

    IMG_7543.JPG

    Made a cardboard model of the piece of sheet metal needed.
    After a trip to Lowes for the metal, the replacement piece was cut out.

    IMG_7545.JPG

    Some welding and a bunch of grinding, the new metal was installed.

    IMG_7546.JPG

    The old body mount connected to the old floor board had to be removed.
    So a new one had to be made.

    IMG_7547.JPG

    Hope to have this new piece installed soon.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019
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  8. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had some time to weld in the bracket.
    First was to weld in the stiffening piece to the bracket.

    IMG_7550.JPG

    Then the bracket was placed into position as to mark where the spot weld holes were to be drilled into the new rear floor board patch

    IMG_7555.JPG

    The bracket was removed and the spot weld holes were drilled.

    IMG_7552.JPG IMG_7553.JPG

    Seems kind of strange to drill holes into a new floor board...

    The bracket was put into position and welded in place.
    A pipe and a jack was used to push the bracket up against the bottom of the floor board

    IMG_7557.JPG IMG_7558.JPG

    The welds were ground smooth...

    IMG_7556.JPG

    Then it was time to put the body bushings back into place and bolt the body back to the frame.
    Onto to more removal of the bed liner material.
    Hoping this was the last of the iron oxide replacement tasks. (Wishful thinking...).
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
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  9. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    As with all good CJ's, more iron oxide was discovered...
    So more cutting, welding and grinding on the floorboards and the FB was finally in good shape.

    IMG_7596.JPG

    Next came the tedious task of removing all the old paint so the POR 15 could stick.
    The the floor board was nice and shiny.
    Then came the POR 15.

    IMG_7651.JPG IMG_7652.JPG

    Now for the bed liner.
    Think I am going with the DIY route.
    A have some research to do...
    Experience? Reviews? of bed liners.
     
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  10. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    I think herculiner is the way to go if diy. Just wear gloves so you not like the guy on whatever forum that posted "how to get herculiner off my hootus" look it up if you've not seen it yet... There's also raptor liner, monstaliner.... No personal experience - I hate bedliner & mud.. difficult to clean the mud of the surface isn't slick.
     
  11. skyhighZJ

    skyhighZJ Thanks for your taxes

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Location:
    Aberdeen, NC.
    Used herculiner in the floorboard of the XJ. It was good shit.
     
  12. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    I think the Lizard Skin, is suppose to be a heat & sound deadener. No experience here.
     
  13. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Went with the Herculiner as it was locally available.

    First coat

    IMG_7697.JPG

    The new liner is not as thick as the old liner.
     
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  14. skyhighZJ

    skyhighZJ Thanks for your taxes

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Location:
    Aberdeen, NC.
    You can overcoat it for added thickness. Brush seems to make it smoother or use a short nap roller to make the particles come to the surface for a rougher surface
     
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  15. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Finished up the bed liner.
    Put the gas tank back in.
    Hooked up the brakes.
    The E-Brake seems to be working well.
    Front brakes are OK.
    Rear brakes are going to need some more work.

    Next, it was time to see if the CJ could come out of hibernation.

    IMG_7802.JPG

    The CJ made it outside under its own power.
    A bunch more work left to do, but it can now drive around the yard.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
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  16. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    To install the old winch plate, slots on the side had to be cut out due to the out-boarding of the YJ springs.

    IMG_7942.JPG IMG_7939.JPG

    As shown above, the winch was installed.
    Took me a little while to figure out how to connect everything back up.
    IMG_7938.JPG IMG_7941.JPG

    It's not fancy, but it works.
    Hopefully, next week, the muffler guy will install the exhaust.

    Anyone know of someone who could help me build a roll bar into a cage in the Hickory, Charlotte area?
     
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  17. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had some time to tighten up the suspension bolts.
    Next was the sway bar (SB).
    Pickup up a set of quick release SB links off Craigslist.

    IMG_7944.JPG

    The original thought was to weld the lower tab to the top spring plate.
    Due to dimension limitations, that plan was a no go.
    The best place was on the axle

    IMG_7945.JPG

    As shown above, the tab that came with the kit was beefed up with some more metal.
    The beefed up tab was then welded to the tube.
    Repeated the process for the other side

    The SB links were then attached.

    IMG_7946.JPG IMG_7947.JPG

    A few washers and a couple of longer bolts were used to make the SB link line up with lower bracket.

    IMG_7948.JPG IMG_7949.JPG

    Not sure if all this was the best way to install a SB, but it seems to be working...
    Hopefully this week, the exhaust will be installed.
     
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  18. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    After installing the SB links, it was time to take the CJ outside again.
    IMG_7951.JPG

    Then over to a couple of small inclines to check the flexing and look for clearance issues.
    IMG_7952.JPG IMG_7953.JPG

    So far so good.
    As front flexes and turns, the 22" front brake lines may be a little short, so the 28" brake lines will likely be installed at some point in the future.

    Though the CJ sounds good with just headers, the man may not have the same opinion, so now the Jeep is at the muffler shop.

    IMG_7968.JPG

    Hope to get the CJ back this evening.

    Next big item is to find someone bend some tubing to install a cage.
     
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  19. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Got the CJ back from the muffler shop.

    The owner of the shop was real easy to work with and had some great suggestions.
    The CJ came with a dual exhaust setup.
    With the addition of a track bar, a dual setup was not as ideal since a quite deep rumble was the desired outcome.

    The new system starts with the headers and then goes to a two-in one-out muffler.

    IMG_7971.JPG IMG_7973.JPG IMG_7975.JPG IMG_7977.JPG IMG_7979.JPG
     
  20. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    When the suspension seats were installed, the original passenger seat bracket was used.
    Though the seat bracket system worked, the passenger seat sat up too high, about two inches higher than the drivers seat.

    They sell a universal seat bracket for about $120

    shopping.png
    Since the CJ floor board is not level, the above would have to be modified.
    So the original seat bracket system was taken apart and its lower brackets reused.
    Since I had some steel left over from other projects, figured it would not be too hard to make a bracket system.

    IMG_8066.JPG

    Then a little paint
    IMG_8071.JPG

    Then bolt in the passenger seat.

    IMG_8072.JPG IMG_8073.JPG
     
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  21. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    When looking under the CJ trying to figure out why the xfer case is stuck in four low, discovered the starter wires were touching the headers.
    To reroute the cable as a little more involved than originally planned as the bolt would not loose up that holds the wire to the starter.
    Eventually, the old wire was removed.
    IMG_8080.JPG IMG_8083.JPG

    The starter was cleaned up and painted
    IMG_8079.JPG
    The new wire was installed and the CJ taken for another drive around the neighborhood.

    IMG_8089.JPG IMG_8090.JPG
    Hope to get some more items into the done column and be ready for some trails soon.
     
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  22. Scooter402

    Scooter402 Rest in pieces

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2009
    Location:
    Up yonner in Pennsyltucky
    Very nice looking! I forgot how cool these can look without the cage in them. Did you figure out the stuck linkage thing? I'm assuming you've got a D300. In my experience with them, that's just an inherent trait of them...Mine would be fine in 2-hi with an occasional struggle to shift into 4-hi, but I would feel like I was about to break the lever off trying to shift it into 4-lo...that was even with the occasional "rock-the-jeep-forward-and-back" trying to catch the range shift on a slow roll...turns out it's just in the way the linkage was engineered. If you take the linkage apart and scrub all the crap out of it and grease it up, it usually will work better. Not flawless (come on, it's a CJ :lol:), but better anyway.
     
  23. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Based on the numbers on the xfer case, its a Dana 20 matched to a T18.
    During this upgrade, a twin stick was installed,
    I may take it off and go back with the stock single stick setup.
    If that doesn't fix things, I maybe taking out the xfer case and rebuild it or upgrade to a Dana 300
     
  24. NickMaul

    NickMaul Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2009
    Location:
    Virginia Beach
    Did you do the twin stick upgrade? I put in stiffer detent springs in my d300 when I did mine and it felt like my cable shifters were going to snap sometimes.

    Mine only liked shifting smooth when popping the clutch at a crawl speed then getting the clutch back in. That sort of unbinded the gears and wahlah.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  25. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Well works been kicking my tail...

    One thing that has always bothered by about the CJ was the bolts that are to secure the xfer case pan the frame were barely doing their job.
    The threads in the frame that were to secure the bolts were almost stripped out.

    So out comes some angle iron and the welder

    IMG_8283.JPG IMG_8284.JPG

    Next was to reinforce the pan and add some extensions.

    IMG_8281.JPG IMG_8282.JPG

    Then the modified pan was bolted to the welded on pieces of angle iron

    IMG_8288.JPG IMG_8290.JPG

    Now I can drive the CJ around the yard w/o worrying about the Dana 20 falling down.

    IMG_8287.JPG

    Of course the Dana 20 is leaking like crazy.
    The rebuild kit is on back order.
    Might be time to have the cage installed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2019
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