My First Jeep CJ

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by Creekin, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    The work hardened came by me using the drill at less than ideal RPM and feed rate when reaming out the whole in the high steer arm.
    Anyway, the new tool worked great when I followed their instructions.
    Always fun to learn new stuff.
     
  2. WARRIORWELDING

    WARRIORWELDING Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2008
    Location:
    Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
    Work hardening comes from repetitive loads and compaction....you most likely annealed the reamer. Highly doubtful you hardened the seat of the arm. If it had enough carbon you may have surface treated the steering arm by getting it hot and then cooling. But to do this the arm had to reach the transformation zone and stay a bit to get that to change.......and be very reactive at lower temps.

    I also highly doubt the pressure involved moved the surface tension around enough to make it harder.

    you annealed the tool.

    Reamer equals slow speed cutting.

    Progress looks good "btw"
     
    Charles Smith likes this.
  3. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Warrior,
    Thanks for the clarification...
    Have a whole bunch to learn about this Jeep thing.
     
    WARRIORWELDING likes this.
  4. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Some have heard stories about CJ steering boxes and the steering brackets being ripped out of a Jeep during wheeling.
    Figure this was a good time to upgrade.

    The existing pitman arm is 5.5" long and has about 2" of drop.

    IMG_6257.JPG IMG_6255.JPG

    Currently, there is about 3" of clearance between the pitman arm and the new tie rod

    IMG_6254.JPG

    With 5.5" pitman arm, the tuning radius is going to be wider than what came on a stock CJ, which had ~ 7" long pitman arm

    To get more separation between the pitman arm and the new tie rod arm, they make a bracket that moves the steering box forward about 1.25"

    IMG_6216.JPG

    The above bracket is made from 3/8" and 1/2" steel.
    The instructions for installation are pretty good.
    Think I should have read them a little closer... but some stuff was fun figured out
    The steering shaft needs to be removed.

    IMG_6245.JPG IMG_6247.JPG

    Portions of the front cross member needed to be cut out.

    A template for the new 3rd hole on top of the cross member needed to be made

    IMG_6251.JPG

    And then a quick check to see the fit of the new steering bracket.

    IMG_6252.JPG

    Next is to take everything out, then paint, and install the steering box bracket and the new steering shaft.
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2018
    rodney eppes likes this.
  5. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    When the front axles were installed, the snap ring behind the Warn manual lock was not installed.
    So, with a couple of days off for the holidays, time to clean up some parts and install the snap ring.

    IMG_6294.JPG

    The old steering shaft had some play in it, so a new Borgeson shaft ordered and installed.

    IMG_6298.JPG

    The new shaft appears to be much stronger that the original.
     
  6. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    The steering has been a bunch of work.
    The old pitman arm was stuck to the steering box.
    Nothing that a little heat and a puller could not handle.
    A new pitman is straight 6.5" a seems much stronger than what was on the CJ.

    IMG_6295.JPG

    The steering box was mounted onto heavy duty steering bracket.

    IMG_6296.JPG IMG_6297.JPG
     
  7. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    With the steering box installed, time to make the drag link.
    The Chevy one ton drag link ends were used (MOOG ES2026R and ES2027L).
    The threaded ends were welded to the the 1.5" x 0.25" DOM tubing

    IMG_6303.JPG

    A little anti-seize for the threads and the drag link ends were installed.
    Now to see if all those measurements worked.

    IMG_6309.JPG IMG_6310.JPG IMG_6311.JPG IMG_6312.JPG

    And the drag link is relatively level, so bump steer hopefully will not be an issue.

    IMG_6314.JPG IMG_6315.JPG

    With the new steering system installed, time to see if the wheels will turn with the steering wheel.
    It worked!.
    Clearances look good.
    Time to tighten everything up...
    On to the drive shafts and anti wrap bar...
     
    XJsavage and rodney eppes like this.
  8. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Quick Update...

    Been way too busy at work.
    Warrior Welder did come over to and provided some suggestion to resolve the issue with the U-Bolts on the Front Passenger Side Springs. Thx!
    He also dropped cool welding table that I really needed.

    One of the trucks needed some new tires.
    Jason at Town and Country recommended a bigger tire.

    Before Shot

    H3T Photo.jpg

    After Shot

    New Tires (2).JPG New Tires (1).JPG
    The dawgs approved of the new look.
     
    Neexs and rodney eppes like this.
  9. Neexs

    Neexs Joined the Band Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2019
    Location:
    United States
    love the looks of it!
     
  10. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Neexs,
    Thx...
    The truck is some what unique. It has a manual gear box with a 2 to 1 xfer case
    Reportedly, they only made ~56 manuals...
    However, it does not have the Adventure Package.
    Adventure package has electric lockers front and rear with 4 to 1 xfer case.
    However, they only made 9 of the manual gear boxes with Adventure package...
    Probably need to get this bumper sticker for it.

    IMG_6379.JPG

    Anyway, things at work should be settling back to normal and time should be come available to work on the CJ soon.
     
    doc, XJsavage and WARRIORWELDING like this.
  11. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    With the help of Warrior Welder, think a solution to the U-Bolt issue on the passenger side has been found.
    Took the axle over to his shop and we added some metal to the pumpkin at then took some off in other places.
    Now the U-Bolts seem to be in the correct areas.
    Made a new plate and installed the axle, as shown below:

    IMG_6525.JPG IMG_6526.JPG

    Anyway... the project is moving forward again.
    Now if work will settle down, I can spend some more time in the garage.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
  12. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had a little time this weekend to work on the CJ.
    Installed the right and left hub assemblies and brakes.
    IMG_6551.JPG

    The CJ is on all four wheels now.
    Time to get the brake lines and the driveshafts done.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2019
  13. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Just a little wheel bling for the CJ.

    Picked up some stainless lug nuts.

    IMG_6567.JPG IMG_6568.JPG

    The old chrome ones were a little rusty...

    IMG_6570.JPG

    The new SS one is on the left.

    Think they look good.

    IMG_6571.JPG IMG_6572.JPG IMG_6573.JPG

    Hopefully, I'll have more to report soon.
     
    rodney eppes likes this.
  14. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Installed the twin stick.

    IMG_6607.JPG

    Was not happy with the cover that came with the twin stick.
    Found strongholdshiftboots.com.
    They custom make them in the US.
    You can get them in different colors and different color stitching.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2019
  15. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    My UPS driver is way cool.
    He has helped me solve some of the Flintstone CJ issues..

    He brings me new driveshafts for the Dana 20.

    IMG_6657.JPG

    The front shaft has 1310 U Joints at the xfer case and 1350 at the front diff.
    The rear shaft has a flange to adapt a Dan 20, 26 spline to 1350 U Joints and there is a 1350 U Joint at the diff.

    IMG_6655.JPG IMG_6656.JPG

    With any luck, I will be able to install the driveshafts and have CJ under its own power soon.
    However, mobility will be limited until the Flintstone brakes are replaced with new brake lines and brake fluid.
     
    rodney eppes likes this.
  16. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    To install the rear shaft, the old 1310 drive shaft flange on the Dana 20 had to be removed.
    The 3/4" x 10 nut was removed and the flange came off.

    IMG_6658.JPG IMG_6661.JPG IMG_6663.JPG
    One of the interesting things about the old flange was that the washer was integrated into the design since the spline part of the shaft is about 1.25" in diameter and the threads are 3/4"

    The new flange to adapt the 1350 driveshaft to the Dana 20 did not have this integrate washer assembly, so the 3/4" nut was not going to sit well against the adapter.

    IMG_6660.JPG

    A quick trip the hardware store resulted in finding an 18 mm washer and a new 3/4" x 10 nut that would work well.

    IMG_6664.JPG

    The flange was installed.
    IMG_6671.JPG IMG_6673.JPG

    And then the driveshaft

    IMG_6674.JPG IMG_6676.JPG IMG_6675.JPG

    With the CJ on all fours, the angle on the driveshaft is about 25 degrees.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    Looks like a double cardan rear shaft.. if it is, as you ought to know, the pinion centerline should be inline (or down 1-2 degrees). Single cardan, the pinion center line should be parallel to the output shaft center line.
     
  18. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    The driveshafts are double cardan for the rear and the front.
    The axle pinions have been rotated so they point upwards the transfer case.
    The front axles C's have been rotated so there is about 6 degrees of caster.
    Hope all this stuff works out so the CJ will drive well.
     
  19. WARRIORWELDING

    WARRIORWELDING Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2008
    Location:
    Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
    I'm not sure why Jim layed the angle gauge on it and read that off.

    The pinion and yokes was measured independantly. The related angle was within the specs you described with weight on the springs when the perches got tacked. Also done with the intent of the cardan joint over two ujoints in a much deeper angle configuration.

    Only thing I see different is the drive shaft brand I recommended.
     
  20. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Warrior was a great help in moving this project forward.
    Could not have gotten this far w/o his help.... Thx again.

    The 1350 flange adapter decreased the distance from the transfer case to the rear diff... so I wanted to check the angles
    The angel of the shaft was measured and so was the angle that the transfer case.
    With the angle of the shaft about 25 degrees and the transfer case points down about 2.5 degrees, the resultant angle was about 22.5 degrees.
    The max a double cardan angle should be is about 23 degrees in a static state from normal operation.
    As the leaf springs age, the static angle should decrease a bit.
    Anyway, I hope all this works well when it is time to test the CJ.

    The front angle of the driveshaft is about 17 degrees.
    Considering lowering the transfer case about 1/2" which should help with the angles in the back shaft until the springs have a few miles on them.
     
    Danger_Ranger and XJsavage like this.
  21. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had to check clearances when the CJ needs to flex.

    IMG_6975.JPG IMG_6974.JPG

    Clearances look good with the right front tire about 18" off the ground
    I am sure the flex will get better and the springs soften up some.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
    rodney eppes likes this.
  22. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had a little time over the weekend to install the front driveshaft.

    DSC_5139.JPG DSC_5143.JPG
    DSC_5148.JPG DSC_5149.JPG

    One thing learned was to put the fours bolts for the driveshaft into the flange that is mounted onto the shaft of the Dana 20 before one tighten the flange bolt to the xfer case shaft.
    When the suspension is compressed during flexing, the clearance between the header on the passenger side and the driveshaft is a little close.
    May need to find a way to get more separation between the front driveshaft and the passenger side header.
     

    Attached Files:

    rodney eppes likes this.
  23. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Now that the driveshafts are installed, time to work on the brakes.

    This is what is currently in the CJ

    IMG_6980.JPG

    Since the CJ now was Waggy disc calipers up front and 1986 Caddy rear calipers, some changes are needed.

    Would like to try to stay away from HydroBoost if possible, as to keep things simple.

    There is the Corvette MC and booster assembly and their is the 1978 Mercury Marquis options for the brake booster/master cylinder.
    The E350 MC is good, but was designed for a front and rear disc setup
    Also heard about dual vacuum brake booster assemblies.

    If possible, I would like to hear what experience you had regarding going to bigger disc front and rear.
    Also, they make a proportioning valve that is designed for a disc/disc stetup

    Thanks in advance
     
    rodney eppes likes this.
  24. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    Disc will be limited by the wheel rim size you run [15-16-17-18]. You can get better pressure & clamping force, with dual piston or 6 piston calipers, but that gets expensive too. Proportioning valves come about any way you want one, & some guys just pull the disc or plug, whatever it is that differs the disc/shoes, verses disc/disc. I went all out with the hydro-boost, so I'm not knowledgeable with boosters. Corvette & E350, are probably the most chosen MC.
     
  25. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Made a little progress on the CJ.
    The front cover for the diff was installed and the Ox locker was tested

    IMG_7050.JPG
     

Share This Page