My First Jeep CJ

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by Creekin, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    Zert nuts, might have been an easier fix! I've run the T-18 /D 20 combo, for years. Several years back, installed the Don Custer Twin Stick. It's Much easier to use & shift, than the Single Factory shifter. I still get bind sometimes in 4 low. If it doesn't want to "rock out", I just hop out & unlock a hub, or two. Releases the bind, & slips right out.
     
  2. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Well, its has been way too much work work recently.

    John was nice enough to offer to help with a couple of the bigger projects left to finish.
    One of the bigger problems was the Dana 20 had a bad leak and was locked in 4 Low.
    Ordered a rebuild kit with the optional aluminum pan from Novak.

    The Dana 20 was a real pain to get out since the exhaust and anti-wrap bar was installed.
    Once those were items were out of the way, the Dana 20 came out.

    The Dana 20 looks relatively small, but there is a bunch of parts.
    John's favorite part was all those roller bearings. :D

    IMG_8665.JPG

    A couple shots of the Dana 20 being rebuilt

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    Long story short, the Dana 20 is back in the CJ and it shifts really nice.
     
  3. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    One of the things that was a must add before the next trail ride was a cage.
    Since the CJ is not a bonce buggy and is just going to be for medium trails, and needs to be usable on the streets, what cage is needed?
    A couple of other factors include a need for a harness bar, which means the rear seating option will be lost.

    After looking at a bunch of different cages.
    A lot of folks tie the cage to the frame.

    One issue was a cage to frame route was the A-Pillar tube and the dash pad along with the 1/2 doors.
    After talking with the folks at GenRight they have a solution for the clearance issues with the CJ

    GenRight Cage.jpg GenRight Cage 2.jpg GenRight Cag4e.jpg GenRight Cage3.jpg
    To get the clearances, GenRight recommended to go with their A Pillar kit.

    Since John was willing to help build a cage, we both chipped in picked up a tubing bender and a notcher.
    Then a trip to Race City Steel to pick up some sticks of 1.75" 0.120 wall DOM tubing.

    John and I came up with a plan to build a cage that would tie into the A Pillar and B Pillar.
    This is the result.

    IMG_8682.JPG IMG_8684.JPG IMG_8686.JPG IMG_8691.JPG IMG_8687.JPG

    One thing that was discovered was if you weld the A pillar DOM to the A Pillar Kit, then it is not possible to easily remove the cage.
    Since the cage has to come off to power coat it, those two parts are now designed to be bolted together.

    One nice feature is the bikini top still fits.

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    The cage was inspected by the dogs and they approve.

    IMG_8697.JPG

    Any thoughts before this cage goes to get painted?
     
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  4. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    Nice cage, & the cowl mount may be more ridge than mine, but seems like too much work for the outcome. I've been satisfied with mine; tube to the floor. Floor pics were posted back when you were doing the floor pans.
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    One of the things left on the list was to address the steering in the area where it comes out of the firewall.
    The old bearing had jumped out of the plastic cup that holds it in place.
    IMG_8794.JPG

    Taking off the steering shaft was not too bad since that had been recently replaced.

    IMG_8797.JPG

    The old bearing took a bit more work, but nothing the PB plaster and and some leverage could not handle.

    IMG_8798.JPG

    With the old bearing off, it was time to remove the three remaining pieces, the plastic cup, the metal retaining ring, and the spring clip.

    IMG_8807.JPG

    After cleaning up the steering shaft and its housing, time to press the new bearing into the plastic cup.
    It simply snaps into place with moderate pressure.
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    Some red grease was applied and the plastic cup and bearing were put onto the steering shaft. Note, the plastic cup has notches and must be aligned to the steering shaft housing.
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    With the cup in place, put the metal retaining ring over the plastic cup and install the retaining clip. The notches in metal retaining ring must be aligned notches in the steering shaft housing

    IMG_8814.JPG IMG_8815.JPG

    Install the steering shaft and then install the set screw and lock nut using locktite. IMG_8817.JPG
     
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  6. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had a chance to work on the cage.
    Welded on the center plate.

    IMG_8827.JPG

    Then took out the cage to finish the welding

    IMG_8831.JPG IMG_8832.JPG

    Then finished up the welding.

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    Next it is going to get sandblasted and powder coated.
     
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  7. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    The cage was dropped off at the powder coat place.
    Should be ready in a week or so.

    IMG_8845.JPG

    A bunch of straps were used to keep the cage from moving on the trailer.
    Of course it's always a pain to keep up with the ratchet straps, so a triangle box was ordered.
    The instruction say to use the sheet metal screws to the hold the box in place. Not going to happen...
    Welded some aluminum angle to the trailer and drilled some holes.

    IMG_8860.JPG IMG_8861.JPG IMG_8862.JPG

    Of course, had to use some SS fasteners.

    IMG_8863.JPG IMG_8864.JPG

    Then bolted the box to the trailer. Used some grease to keep the SS bolts from galling.
    IMG_8865.JPG IMG_8868.JPG IMG_8869.JPG

    Now I know where my straps are.
     
  8. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Picked up the cage from the powder coat shop.

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    The yellow dog approves of the powder coating. The black dog (her sister) has past ~week ago.
    I was hoping to take the dogs for a ride when I get done with this build (hopefully one day).
    I guess it will be just the yellow dog and me.

    The next day, the tractor was used to install the cage.
    IMG_8975.JPG IMG_8976.JPG IMG_8978.JPG

    Then bolting the A-pillar pieces and bolting the cage to the tub.
    For the B-pillar, the old brackets from the original cage were reused.
    Also made a couple of underside plates to sandwich the tub sheet metal.


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    Need to make some more underside plates and finish bolting everything together.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2019
  9. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Well it took a lot longer than it should have, but the sandwich plates all have been made and the cage install is complete.

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    Hopefully, the cage will never be needed...
    Next, install the seats, 5-point harness and heater core assembly.
     
  10. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Started on the heating system.
    The old heater core was leaking and the old control cables were stuck and/or broken.

    After removing the lower portion of the heater box, a 5 piece set of Barney's Jeep heater control cables were ordered.
    They state they are made in USA and are really great.
    When they arrived, I was pleasantly surprised.
    The quality was great.
    IMG_9044.JPG IMG_9045.JPG
    IMG_9046.JPG IMG_9048.JPG
    What I really liked was the new cables came with new push nuts that secure the ends of the cable onto the heater controls

    Compared to the set that was on the CJ, Barney's is a much better design

    IMG_9047.JPG IMG_9049.JPG

    The old set used plastic clips that broke.
    The new set has a metal nut to secure the cable to the dash.

    Here is a picture of one of the new cables installed.

    IMG_9051.JPG IMG_9052.JPG IMG_9050.JPG
     
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  11. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    Didn't know Barnes made those; Nice! Hope you Lube up those sliding pieces, while you can get to them!
     
  12. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    Barnes != Barney's. That's a great quality product though!
     
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  13. WARRIORWELDING

    WARRIORWELDING Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2008
    Location:
    Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
    A Jeep with heat! BLASPHEMY!
     
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  14. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    So it would be pure heresy for the CJ to have heated seats too?
    Being a EE, it would not be too hard to modify the seats.
     
  15. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    they sell seat heater kits. Heck with the top off or if it's as drafty as my old yj was a decade ago, you'll be forever thankful if you do. Bonus points if you get the massaging heated inserts!

    Not heresy as long as they're not Bluetooth!

    But you may need to upgrade the alternator next.
     
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