My First Jeep CJ

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by Creekin, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Also had some time to work on the brakes.
    Did some research...
    Found MBM out of Asheville that makes a disc/disc MC kit for the CJ

    IMG_7030.JPG

    The kit comes with a MC with a 1.125" piston, a disc/disc proportioning valve, 8" double brake booster, bracket, plunger rod, and hardware.
    Install was straight forward.

    IMG_7033.JPG IMG_7047.JPG IMG_7048.JPG

    Need to finish installing the brake lines, make up some new lines to go to the MC as the proportioning valve will be under the MC.
     
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  2. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    I've installed an mbm kit (and rear disc conversion) on an old Ford (73? 68-69? Can't remember) and the kit was pretty straight forward. Are their prices reasonable?
     
  3. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    The kit was around $200 direct from MBM

    The only thing that I could fault was the piston arm where it connects to the brake pedal.

    s-l640.jpg

    The arm has a white plastic insert on the end that connects to the brake pedal
    Figure the insert would not last too long, so I welled up the hole and drilled it to just over 1/2"

    Also, when I was taking off the old arm from the brake pedal, found out there was no cotter pin holding the arm to the brake pedal.
    Lucky the old piston arm never came off...
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2019
  4. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Made a little progress with the MC & front brake lines.

    MC 1.JPG

    When install the rear brake lines, found something interesting...
    More on this later.
     
  5. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Since the brakes were at a stand still, waiting on more parts...

    Time to work on the traction bar.
    Ruff Stuff has a nice kit.

    Ruff Stuff.jpg

    The kit comes with or w/o the two long pieces of DOM tubing

    After sourcing some DOM tubing, the welding process begins.

    IMG_7107.JPG

    Still a long way to go.
    To attach the cross member that goes under the drive shaft, the hope is to weld two 2"x3" angles onto two pieces of flat steel.
    Then weld the flat steel pieces to the jeep's frame
    The angle iron will act as a mounting plate for the cross member.
    That way if the cross member for the traction bar ever needs to come out, it can be unbolted.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2019
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  6. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Worked on the anti-wrap bar (AWB) this weekend.
    Never made one of these before, so a lot of time was spend thinking and measuring...

    The first thing was to make some pockets for the AWB's cross bar to mount onto the frame rails.
    Also made some back plates to weld onto the frame

    IMG_7129.JPG IMG_7147.JPG IMG_7146.JPG

    Next the cross bar was made so that it could be bolted to the back plates

    IMG_7155.JPG IMG_7157.JPG

    With the crossbar in place, next was to make the AWB

    IMG_7154.JPG

    The dawgs approved of the work.
    Still have to make the center piece to stiffen up the AWB

    Next was to see how the AWB would fit.
    IMG_7159.jpg IMG_7165.jpg IMG_7161.jpg

    The angle of the drive shaft and the angle of the bottom bracket are within one degree of each other.
    The bottom of bar of the AWB is about the same height as the drive shaft.
    Next will be to weld the back bracket to the axle.
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had a little time this evening to make up the center section and weld it into place

    IMG_7188.JPG

    Hopefully, the AWB will be welded onto the axle soon
     
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  8. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    I hope the bracket gets welded on to the axle and not the bar itself :p

    Looks like it will serve the purpose well. You will want to tack the bracket in place while the driveshaft is at the desired angle with the other end of the AWB attached, so it works as planned. Looking good.
     
  9. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Finished up the AWB
    Followed a-kelly's recommendation and welded the brackets to the axle. :D

    AWB 1.JPG
    Now onto the next project
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2019
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  10. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    The CJ's floor board had bed liner material installed.
    Of course like all things Jeep, there was a surprise.
    The liner did not stick to well to the floor board on the drivers side and some moisture was trapped
    This led to what a_kelly calls the "iron oxide reduction" process

    IMG_7223.JPG IMG_7224.JPG

    Just a little to much iron reduction for me, IMHO.

    So, picked up a nice replacement pan

    IMG_7225.JPG

    Question is how much should be cut out?

    IMG_7232.JPG IMG_7233.JPG
    At this point, the floorboard is relatively solid.
    I can stop cutting here, or take out more metal
    Recommendations?
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2019
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  11. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    Depends on if you are just going for repair or restoration.. what's good enough for you? Are you happy with it being a patch or would you rather replace the whole panel so it's not seamed outside the normal places?

    It's the "Iron oxide weight reduction package" ;)
     
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  12. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    Or, whatever is easy for you to work with? Access with the welder might be a deciding factor, if looks are not.
     
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  13. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Removed some more of the old floor board on the drivers side.

    IMG_7246.JPG

    With the drivers floor pan removed, access to the square nut for one of the body/frame bushing was revealed that is under the pedal cluster.
    The sheet metal that holds the square nut in place was a casualty of a_kelly's iron reduction package.
    However, a large adj wrench works to hold the nut to remove the bolt for the body/suspension mount.
    Since all the body/frame bushings appear to be original and are well past their prime, a good time to replace those items.
    Anyway, a bit more iron reduction, bracket making, welding, etc., will be needed to replace body/frame bushings.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2019
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  14. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    With the drivers pan out of the way, the inspection of the other body/frame bushing revealed they were in ruff shape.
    Had to make some brackets and fab up some parts to get the new bushings installed.

    IMG_7273.JPG

    Here is a shot of the rear bushing.

    IMG_7272.JPG

    A bunch of work metal work was needed to get that bushing installed.
    One more to bushing/body mount to complete and the drivers side will be done.
    Then the passenger side body mounts.
     
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  15. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Been working on getting the bushings/body mounts ready on the drivers side
    A_Kelly's iron reduction package sometimes takes a bunch of time to address.
    The bushing kit did not include new fasteners and washers.
    Most bolts were long 3/8" with the rear bolt being 7/16", which are not a problem to source from the local bolt house.
    However, the fender washers are unusual.
    Most washers are thick 3/8" ID with a 2.5" in OD and were not available from any local sources.

    The only places that had the correct fender washers were CJ parts retailers and they were like $60 for 8 washers (Whiskey-Tango-Foxtrot?).
    Since I don't have a plasma cutter, out comes the cutoff wheel to make some washers out of 1/8" thick steel stock (yea, I am cheap).
    A bushing assembly is shown below:

    IMG_7279.JPG

    In the above picture, the old washer is on the right and the new washer is in the middle.

    IMG_7280.JPG IMG_7281.JPG
    Anyway, a few more washers to make and the drivers side will be done.
    Next, the passenger side bushings.
     
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  16. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    There's nothing wrong with an octagonal washer. Looks good. (Though personally I might have elected to go thicker on the washer, being mild steel vs possibly hardened with a standard washer, depending on grade).. last time I bought a (one) body mount (for a tj) it included everything but it was about $30..
     
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  17. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Been working to finish up the body mounts on the drivers side
    The body mount on the pedal cluster took a little more work to complete.

    IMG_7305.JPG IMG_7306.JPG IMG_7307.JPG

    Since the one under the drivers pedal uses a different bottom bushing, a larger washer was used using 1/4" stock.
    A hole saw was used in the mfr of the washer to avoid the octagon effect.

    All the body mounts now done on the drivers side...
    Onto the drivers floor board
     
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  18. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Been working on the drivers front floor board.
    After cutting out the old rust metal, the CJ was now a true Flintstones mobile

    IMG_7246.JPG
    The area was prepped and weld through primer was applied.
    The new floorboard was cut to fit and primed.
    IMG_7308.JPG

    Started the welding process.
    A bottle jack was used to keep things in place
    IMG_7309.JPG

    Still some more welding to do...
    This is the progress so far
    IMG_7311.JPG
    Maybe one day, I will get ahead of A_Kelly's iron reduction package.
     
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  19. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    Looking good!! (And it's the iron oxide weight reduction package... Less weight is free horsepower of course!)
     
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  20. rodney eppes

    rodney eppes Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2010
    Location:
    Mt.Holly NC 28120
    I used the bottle jack, Before I could afford or find a Porta-Power. Got the Porta-Power, & sometimes the bottle jack is Still my choice!
     
  21. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Had some time to work on to finish welding in the new drivers floorboard

    IMG_7315.JPG

    A five pound hammer is great tool to get the floor board to sit flush with the original floor pan.
    After about 10 minutes of welding and an hour of grinding...
    Time to prep the new floor board by removing most of the factory paint.
    IMG_7316.JPG IMG_7317.JPG

    With the paint remove, time for some etching primer

    IMG_7319.JPG IMG_7320.JPG

    After the primer dried, time to paint on some POR 15.
    IMG_7321.JPG IMG_7322.JPG

    Good thing semi-gloss was used, that stuff shines...
    Letting it dry overnight and then another coat tomorrow.

    While the paint was drying, the bushings on the passenger side were inspected.
    Looks like some more of a_kelly's iron oxide weight reduction package will need to be addressed.
    Going to drop the gas tank just to be safe...
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2019
  22. grapehead

    grapehead Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh
    Are you going to put something over that por15? It isn't UV friendly and will get ashy after awhile.
     
  23. Creekin

    Creekin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2018
    Location:
    Hickory
    Currently, the interior of the tub has a coating of bed liner that is not sticking well to the steel of the tub.
    I hope to peel up the bed liner, address any surface rust, put down some POR 15.
    After all that, then new bed liner stuff goes over the POR 15.
    Not sure which bed liner stuff is best.
    Any ideas?
     
  24. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    Line-x, rhino liner, herculiner. There was/is a linex installer on the forum. Herculiner can be rolled on. I think there was another one that if you bought the sprayer, it was spray on and two part but my memory is not helping at the moment.
     
  25. XJsavage

    XJsavage Warlock of Zante plantation

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2009
    Location:
    Sc
    Paint on Herculiner. You can buy it in either a 1 quart tub or an entire gallon. A whole gallon is pushing a hundred bucks almost. Quart-size I want to say is between 25 and 30, but it's not really enough to get far.
    I bought a small quart size and did both of the floor pans in my YJ and was able to cover at least halfway up under the seats and that was it. As far as how well it holds up, it almost holds up to well. Heaven forbid you ever get any on your hands.
     
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