Project dirt dobber

GONOVRIT said:
Just my .02 so take it how you will.

You're making this entirely too complicated. Don't spend the money on extra muffler pipe and dump it short just below the frame or something, no muffler needed, you now have a turbo.

You don't need O2 sensors.
You're not going to gain much on a dyno tune with pane and a 22R.
You don't need a bov, it's not going to hurt anything without one.

I can probably get a good friend to post here if you're second guessing anything I've said. He has a bare naked 22R on pane building 15# or more boost. It will melt down his 42's on command and he's carrying 14 bolts F&R.
Click to expand...
Is he running blow thru or draw thru?

I'd like to see more on his setup. PM me if you/he wants to keep from cluttering up this thread.
 
GONOVRIT said:
Just my .02 so take it how you will.

You're making this entirely too complicated. Don't spend the money on extra muffler pipe and dump it short just below the frame or something, no muffler needed, you now have a turbo.

You don't need O2 sensors.
You're not going to gain much on a dyno tune with pane and a 22R.
You don't need a bov, it's not going to hurt anything without one.

I can probably get a good friend to post here if you're second guessing anything I've said. He has a bare naked 22R on pane building 15# or more boost. It will melt down his 42's on command and he's carrying 14 bolts F&R.
Click to expand...

Tell him to chim in, not running a bov will load the system in certain situations, that's why people run waste gates and BOVs. One for the exhaust and one for the charge air, just wondering if it's worth it in my setup.

I am going to run a wide band kit to make sure I have my AFR in order. I am going to use this as a mobile tuning device for my other rigs as well, but if you think" throw it together and run it"... Your gambling. I want to make this setup last and be dependable...as a 22r on boost can be,
Setting timing and air fuel ratio is my biggest part of the (tuning) I have to do.

it's not complicated at all,
 
I told him to, if he does or is up to him.

Carry on. I'm sure you'll have a great rig once you've got it done.
 
Josh is correct. You are definitely over thinking it. Turbo propane is simple. Not sure why you would draw through when blow through is so simple and you won't have a possible bomb if it did backfire.
I'm blowing through on my 22r an like Josh said it's the bare minimum. I'm running a 425 impco an model e converter. Turbo is setting up next to valve cover opposite of yours. I have a hose run from compressor side into a top hat Goin through mixer. I have a balance tube runnin from top hat to model e converter. My exhaust is about 2 feet long. I'm runnin 15 psi an 6000 rpm Rev control pretty consistently. A bov, air/fuel Guage, an the other stuff your wanting to put on it are really a waste of $$ unless you "just want them" if your worried about it leaning out then turn the fuel up on the mixer. I can spin 3rd an 4th gear with 42s an front an rear 14 bolts. Power is not a problem unless it's something very long an very steep. All my power is at Rev control though, I could fix it with a cam but I like it like that. I'd be more than happy to answer any of your questions about it.
 
Not much to add, mainly just following along. You can always run no bov and see if you get turbo shudder or chatter, if you do, then add the bov.

If you get boost creep, then you need a wastegate.

May not need it depending on engine flow, turbo flow, etc. it may just make a certain amount of boost at rpm for what exhaust wheel and flange/head can flow and that be it.

For the thread, a bov releases extra boost psi either to atmosphere or back into inlet, ahead of turbo, as boost pressure can surge when the throttle snaps shut. This is know as turbo chatter or shudder and is audible, and is hard on the impeller side of turbo.

A wastegate takes extra exhaust gas ahead of the turbo and dumps it either to atmosphere or back into the exhaust stream after the turbo. If boost amount goes too high, the wastegate can open to regulate boost amount.

Some setups may need one or the other, both, or neither.
 
I took the waste gate off mine an put Springs on it. It's ghetto but it works fine plus I can add or take away Springs to get the boost I want. Adjustable wastewater is best way to do it but Springs work
 
Scottal said:
Josh is correct. You are definitely over thinking it. Turbo propane is simple. Not sure why you would draw through when blow through is so simple and you won't have a possible bomb if it did backfire.
I'm blowing through on my 22r an like Josh said it's the bare minimum. I'm running a 425 impco an model e converter. Turbo is setting up next to valve cover opposite of yours. I have a hose run from compressor side into a top hat Goin through mixer. I have a balance tube runnin from top hat to model e converter. My exhaust is about 2 feet long. I'm runnin 15 psi an 6000 rpm Rev control pretty consistently. A bov, air/fuel Guage, an the other stuff your wanting to put on it are really a waste of $$ unless you "just want them" if your worried about it leaning out then turn the fuel up on the mixer. I can spin 3rd an 4th gear with 42s an front an rear 14 bolts. Power is not a problem unless it's something very long an very steep. All my power is at Rev control though, I could fix it with a cam but I like it like that. I'd be more than happy to answer any of your questions about it.
Click to expand...

It's a learning curve for me to do this turbo and am wanting to do it right

I have a couple questions and statments,
What turbo are you using?
What rev control are you using?
What is your timing set at?
Are you using MLS head gasket and head studs?
Do you have any dead spots in RPM range?( I've heard blow through has dead spots from vacuum-boost pressure?

I'd spoke with Cary at got propane and he talked me out of doing blow through cause of this dead spot in the throttle range. I haven't seen or heard of anyone running one that way without this dead spot, Snappy had a similar setup to yours and had a dead spot as well, Unsure of what mixer/ converter I have...its a got propane kit and he said it'll be good enough for the turbo. I don't think you can over think something resonably when your doubling your HP.
 
My turbo is a garrett gt 28 t25 flange ball bearing
rev control is set with a pill in msd offroad box
I cant remember off top of my head what my timing is, I do know the vac advance is plugged off
Head gasket is what ever came in the LC rebuild kit and using arp head studs and rod bolts
My dead spot is because of my high rpm cam, I literally have no hp until high rpm, but like I said before, I wanted it that way because I like to hold stuff wide open.

Ive never heard of a blow through set up dead spot, Its old technology man, people been using blow through over draw through for years an years, like I said my dead spot is because of my cam.
Cary seems to know a good amount of info about drawing through with turbo propane and if your set on that then hes prolly your best tech guy, no comment otherwise about Cary.
I struggled when I first did mine about info like you. There is not really any good info anywhere about either system that I have found before except the older local guys around me.
I hope my info helps you in some way, im more than happy to try an answer any questions about it I can. I just dont want to see you make it harder than it really is.

On another note... My motor is rebuilt with the turbo rebuild kit from LCE, other than the cam an studs an rod bolts its stock inside. I ran 11 lbs on my old totally stock motor with no rev control for a few years but it finally spun a rod bearing. If your only goin run 5-8 lbs your goin be fine for a long time especially if you dont turn more than 4000/5000 rpm.
 
I was able to work on the top end. Installed oil pan with fitting for oil return, Cleaned block and head installed MLS head gasket and head studs. Was able to get distributer in and check my timing. Everything looks good. Rotated motor and rechecked everything one time. Going to adjust valves and double check things before slapping it back together. I'm going to keepy timing as it was before the turbo and see how it acts. I'm pegged on the distributor so it should be fine.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    158.1 KB · Views: 435
Got the valve cover in after adjusting valves and rechecking my timing, I'm going to run the timing as is because it ran so well before with just propane. Was able to get most of the piping back in and tight,
0605162353.jpg
0605162344a.jpg
 
I believe its the first stud on passenger front of the engine. Many hit the webbing inside the valve cover and it won't completely seal. Check it and just grind the cover if necessary.
 
That bridge is Fawesome! I'm wanting to build one now.
 
Scottal said:
My turbo is a garrett gt 28 t25 flange ball bearing
rev control is set with a pill in msd offroad box
I cant remember off top of my head what my timing is, I do know the vac advance is plugged off
Head gasket is what ever came in the LC rebuild kit and using arp head studs and rod bolts
My dead spot is because of my high rpm cam, I literally have no hp until high rpm, but like I said before, I wanted it that way because I like to hold stuff wide open.

Ive never heard of a blow through set up dead spot, Its old technology man, people been using blow through over draw through for years an years, like I said my dead spot is because of my cam.
Cary seems to know a good amount of info about drawing through with turbo propane and if your set on that then hes prolly your best tech guy, no comment otherwise about Cary.
I struggled when I first did mine about info like you. There is not really any good info anywhere about either system that I have found before except the older local guys around me.
I hope my info helps you in some way, im more than happy to try an answer any questions about it I can. I just dont want to see you make it harder than it really is.

On another note... My motor is rebuilt with the turbo rebuild kit from LCE, other than the cam an studs an rod bolts its stock inside. I ran 11 lbs on my old totally stock motor with no rev control for a few years but it finally spun a rod bearing. If your only goin run 5-8 lbs your goin be fine for a long time especially if you dont turn more than 4500/5000 rpm.
Click to expand...
Let me,know what your setting your timing at. I spoke with Cary and he said to set it at 0 but mine with the propane alone is set advanced pretty far. Unsure if that box true? It'll be nice to have something to go by,
 
Things are going to get dangerous
Just brought a 1944 bridgeport mill home and a unknown year South bend lathe, some tooling as well. Pretty excited. A dream of mine is to learn machining so here's my shot. Mill is in good shape for not being used in a long time. Had lil corrosion on surfaces but,nothing that can't be polished off and cleaned.
 
Getting my rig back together. Front axle is almost complete, drive flanges is what's left. Cross member mount on the chassis is rebuilt. Been looking for some stickies, well I found a good deal of 39s and was thinking I would get them, well I had a friend with a brand new 39 red and I tried to see how it would fit....39s will not fit without -backspacing! Lol not gonna happen
IMG_1239.jpg
1203161325a.jpg
1207162345.jpg
 
Back
Top