Project: Tetanus Shot - 1948 Willys

[Jeff B]

30 amp fuse and a relay

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Got a lot more done today on the build. Was able to mount the fuel tank today. Just waiting on the fuel pump to be delivered and I can try and crank this thing.

Had to remove an existing cross member to get it in there. There's an original crossmember in front of the jeep and the bumper directly behind it so I don't feel like I have lost any strength in the frame. I've got rubber in between the angle and the tank to help with vibrations/metal on metal contact.

Got the return line mocked up and the junkyard filler neck installed. I have an idea to mount the filler neck up through the passenger rear fender but am concerned with a pinch point in the fill tube at the tank. Right now its just hanging out

The tank only hangs down about 4.5" from the rear bumper so its not too noticeable. I am planning on building a skid plate for it.

I have the wiring for the inline, external pump already ran and all I need to do is hook it up, pour some gas in it and crank. Here's hoping...

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Got the fuel pump installed. I'm using a Carter P5000 that I picked up from Summit. I'm running a large micron filter behind it and a smaller micron filter in front of it.

Still need to clean up the wiring but it works with the key switched on and flows plenty of fuel. The TBI only needs 10-15psi of fuel pressure and most of the off the shelf pumps at parts stores flowed at much higher pressures.

If you've been following along on my thread under General Tech, I was having a lot of issues with no spark. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, ignition module, cap, wires, and rotor but still wasn't having any luck. @Tim C and @NC-V both came through and helped me correctly diagnose the issues. It ended up being a wire short from the coil to the distributor and a bad distributor. I now have constant spark during cranking. It still wouldn't crank and run. I pulled one injector off the TBI and managed to get it cranked. It idled terribly and the second I added the second injector it would die. We roughly timed the distributor and managed to get both injectors working and it cranked right up.



There is no O2 Sensor and only open headers right now. It still needs to be timed correctly with a timing light but it cranks.

Ended the weekend with wrapping up and finalizing wiring looms etc for the lights and installed the fenders back on.

Today was spent hard mounting the computer. Had some uni-strut that I cut to length and added some foam rubber for the computer to sit on. It's secured underneath the dash on the passenger side. I need to cut and lengthen the obd port to install but I'm out of butt connectors so that will have to wait.

We mock mounted the seats in and I have a LOT more room now that I redid the back fenders. I'm 5'11" so not terribly tall but stock CJ2As were built for people 5'8" and under. I think I can fit the battery in between the front seats. I'll build a battery box for it and it should be easily accessible. There's really no room under the hood. I've seen where some people mount it upside down under the dash but there's not a whole lot of room under there at all. I'm also going to rework my transmission tunnel to make it a bit more flat. In the future, I'll install a console there.

I really need to address steering/pedals/D300 shifters very soon. I also need to get the cage started so I can tie the seats into it. Brake lines need to be run, master cylinder needs to be installed and I need to figure out a clutch slave setup. A lot got done this weekend but there's always something else to do.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Played around with pedal placement today. The original pedals were floor mounted and were all mechanical linkage. I've got a hydraulic slave cylinder bellhousing and opted to go hydraulic route to make plumbing a bit easier. The cheapest and easiest way to get hanging pedals is to use an XJ assembly. I picked up a set of pedals from @ghost a long time ago and finally got around to mounting them up. I had to cut a portion of the assembly off where it mounts to the dash to make everything fit.

I mocked up the gas pedal assembly and still have to drill and mount it. I already had the brake master and the clutch master and I mocked them up but didn't get any pictures. I still need to grab some hole saws to make room for them. They just clear the hood by about 2". I'm planning on adding a steel plate on the backside to strengthen the firewall as well. Got the hood/windshield bolted back up and plopped a seat in as well.

After staring at a bunch of Willy's builds on Pirate for a few hours today, I think I've finally figured out my steering angle issues. With the new route and placement I should have less severe angles which will make it easier to steer and be a lot more repair friendly. Still need to set the timing as well.

 

[ghost]

Sweet! I want an old flatty some day.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Not much in the way of progress today. Had to travel for work. Did get the original windshield hinges working again. They were just about frozen solid. Let them soak in PB Blaster and then hit them with torch. Then an hour or so of moving each part of them while liberally applying deep creep. It's the small things right now.

Going to try and get the master cylinder and clutch master mounted tomorrow.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Pretty productive day today. I have a working gas pedal now. I need to rebend the gas pedal arm so it sits a little more flat to the tub but for now it’s mounted up and working correctly. Got both the master cylinder for the brakes and clutch mounted today as well

Since the firewall around this are is pretty much Swiss cheese I added a panel and welded it in. A lot stronger now. The brake master has about 1.5” of clearance to the hood.

Mocked the drivers seat back up and sat it about 6” off the floor. Driver visibility is great and there’s a lot more leg room. My buddy in the seat is 5’ 8” for reference.

Started playing around with cage ideas and I think I have a pretty good idea of how I want everything to tie in together in the future. Went garage wheeling as well. Springs have another 2.5” to compress and the shocks not bottomed out.

Tomorrow will be spent running brake lines and ordering the clutch slave. Getting closer...

 

[Jeff B]

no brake booster?

 

[YJJPWrangler]

no brake booster?

Was hoping to get your input on this. I'm running stock XJ pedals. The master is from an Astro I believe. Really not a whole lot of room for a big old booster. I was thinking hydroboost could be an option? Really open to ideas at the moment. On to some pics.

Drivers' front mocked up. Im getting really good at flaring brake fittings. Let's just see if they hold pressure. Right now, all the brake lines are being held on by zipties. I plan on hardmounting them in the immediate future but am unsure of how to mount them. I have some rubber coated clamps that just need a bolt to run through them. I was thinking of welding a bolt to the frame/axle and then using the clamp to secure the lines.

Hard lines run to the master. Still need to finalize the bends and mounting positions. My plan is to run hard lines from the master to just above each axle and then use a SS flex line from the body lines to the axles. Each wheel will have a soft line running from it.

The goal is to keep everything tucked as tight behind the axle as possible to protect the lines. Had a lot of issues finding some soft lines for the rear Eldorado calipers. These calipers were hard lined in on the axle from what I can tell. Did some measuring/figuring and found out that the Waggy front caliper banjo bolts were just slightly larger than the Eldorado. The plan is to drill/tap the eldorado calipers to accept the Waggy soft lines and banjo bolts. This gets me a common size and soft lines all the way around. I've already drilled and tapped one caliper and it was a very easy process. Picked up the rest of the soft lines and banjo bolts today and should be able to get the brakes complete. All I need to do now is find a pushrod and fill/bleed the system.

Also, I finally re-timed the engine and its running a lot better now. Well, as good as it can run with open headers and no O2 sensors.

Last but not least, I got the tailgate mounted. I'm thinking of using some small chain so it can be more of a tailgate. The original tailgate I have off the 51 has the Willy's emblem in the center but the tailgate is to far gone to salvage. I'm thinking of cutting the emblem out and affixing it to this one thats in much better shape.

 

[Jeff B]

Hydroboost is the way to go, that's what I was running. providing you go with he hydroboost, you will want to modify the relief/flow valve in your power steering pump. (I looked for the sight but looks like it's been disabled) I'll walk you through it if you don't know how to do this. I think I still have a valve I can get you some pics.

You can make a push rod out of a long 3/8" grade 8 bolt. Just round each end to fit the cups.

the brake lines sounds like your on the right track.



I also noticed what looks like bolts in your high steer arms? I suggest you remove those and install studs and the tapered lugs nuts.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

If you want to go powered and non-hydro, you can use one like this: 7" Dual Diaphragm Zinc Street Rod Power Brake Booster Universal Ford Chevy NEW | eBay

 

[Jeff B]

If you want to go powered and non-hydro, you can use one like this: 7" Dual Diaphragm Zinc Street Rod Power Brake Booster Universal Ford Chevy NEW | eBay

That's a lot cheaper option, I would have gone that rout years back if it was around & I knew about it.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

If you want to go powered and non-hydro, you can use one like this: 7" Dual Diaphragm Zinc Street Rod Power Brake Booster Universal Ford Chevy NEW | eBay

I like the look of that but I'm worried about hood clearance. I found the same one on speedway and it shows the dimensions on it and it looks like it could "work". I need to make some accurate measurements tomorrow and check. The only concern I would have would be all that weight hanging out there in the engine bay and being attached to the paperthin firewall. I could always plate the backside of it for added strength.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

I like the look of that but I'm worried about hood clearance. I found the same one on speedway and it shows the dimensions on it and it looks like it could "work". I need to make some accurate measurements tomorrow and check. The only concern I would have would be all that weight hanging out there in the engine bay and being attached to the paperthin firewall. I could always plate the backside of it for added strength.

could also add an angled brace from the master down to a lower spot on the firewall to lessen the load hanging out there.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

I also noticed what looks like bolts in your high steer arms? I suggest you remove those and install studs and the tapered lugs nuts.

They are Branik hi-steer arms that I picked up from @Caver Dave . I'll look into the studs/tapered lug nuts.

Got the last caliper drilled and tapped tonight. Tomorrow will be spent on hard mounting the lines to the axles and working on some interior pieces.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Now that the farm table is "finished", I can start back on the Willys. Picked up an 83 CJ steering column off the board from here and got it installed.

However, this leads to this issue.

As you can see the end of the steering shaft is about 1" away from the exhaust. I think I'm going to have to go to a header style that dumps in the middle on the driver side to get around this. It's a small update but progress is being made...

 

[Jeff B]

Now that the farm table is "finished", I can start back on the Willys. Picked up an 83 CJ steering column off the board from here and got it installed.

However, this leads to this issue.

As you can see the end of the steering shaft is about 1" away from the exhaust. I think I'm going to have to go to a header style that dumps in the middle on the driver side to get around this. It's a small update but progress is being made...

With the header style, you will still need an extra knuckle and a bearing to get to the steering box. Should clear by about 1/2" IIRC

 

[Creekin]

Great work on the project.
The steering wheel is unbelievable.

One item of concern. On brake lines to the MC, they go directly to it.
Often manufacturers and others make the brake line into a coil pattern (like a pig tail) to the prevent flexing of the fire wall and other moments from stressing the brake lines and causing a failure.

An example is seen below:



Just my $0.015 worth.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

With the header style, you will still need an extra knuckle and a bearing to get to the steering box. Should clear by about 1/2" IIRC

With this style header or with the collector in the middle?

Great work on the project.
The steering wheel is unbelievable.

One item of concern. On brake lines to the MC, they go directly to it.
Often manufacturers and others make the brake line into a coil pattern (like a pig tail) to the prevent flexing of the fire wall and other moments from stressing the brake lines and causing a failure.

An example is seen below:

View attachment 277316

Just my $0.015 worth.

I will be doing that as well. I'm going to have to redo the main lines as I will be switching a brake booster style MC. Thanks for the tip!

 

[YJJPWrangler]

These headers look like they would allow clearance.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/snh-cv95-p/overview/make/chevrolet

but then im worried about motor mount clearances. Looking on summits website/reviews I saw that a guy was having issues with the passenger side clearing driveshaft. I might have to run two separate types of headers. I don't think this would cause issue with anything or am I wrong?

 

[Jeff B]

These headers look like they would allow clearance.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/snh-cv95-p/overview/make/chevrolet

but then im worried about motor mount clearances. Looking on summits website/reviews I saw that a guy was having issues with the passenger side clearing driveshaft. I might have to run two separate types of headers. I don't think this would cause issue with anything or am I wrong?

I ran OEM manifolds from a astro van

 

[Tim C]

Running in matched headers may be an issue if you're worried about every 0.1 of HP you can get in a race car or on a dyno. I don't believe it'll have any effect here though. I wouldn't worry about it.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

 

[YJJPWrangler]

So I went to the junkyard and pulled an OEM manifold from an Astro, no dice. Did some more thinking and figuring and decided to shorten the steering column. Fortunately, the steering column had a slip joint in it with plenty of room. I shortened the column by around 4" and now the steering shaft gear is just outside the firewall with about 6" of clearance to the headers. Now I just need to find a u-joint that fits the steering column as the one that came with it is pretty trashed. I'm pretty sure its a 36 spline 13/16" shaft. Can anyone confirm? out of an 83 CJ.

 

[R Q]

So I went to the junkyard and pulled an OEM manifold from an Astro, no dice. Did some more thinking and figuring and decided to shorten the steering column. Fortunately, the steering column had a slip joint in it with plenty of room. I shortened the column by around 4" and now the steering shaft gear is just outside the firewall with about 6" of clearance to the headers. Now I just need to find a u-joint that fits the steering column as the one that came with it is pretty trashed. I'm pretty sure its a 36 spline 13/16" shaft. Can anyone confirm? out of an 83 CJ.

Flaming River, Borgeson and other steering u joints are available at Summit and Amazon

 

[McCracken]

I have a Flaming River joint in mine and have been running it for years. This joint held up to the time I lost my hydraulics on Rail Trail and had Armstrong steering with 42 Iroc's