Red YJ Build

A triangulated 4 link would help soften the rear suspension :flipoff2:


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I've been trying to snuff out these 4 link thoughts all weekend. I think I'm going to invest is a pile of spare xj leaves.
 
I just swapped a 14 bolt in the back of my cj. Used xj springs and the short factory 14 bolt perches. The rear was very soft until I put in the anti wrap bar. I can easily spin the bolts in the bar so I know it's not bound up, the bar extends about 10" forward of the front spring hanger and all the shackle geometry is good.

I'm going to unbolt the bar and see if the softness comes back. Looking at the geometry I have it seems the bar will inhibit the axle from vertical movement but not inhibit it's articulation. After all - these antiwrap bars are used to reduce squat on drag cars and such. I just checked my brain at the shop door that day and duplicated the hundreds of wrap bar pics I've seen done before, but I think there's more to the anti wrap bar's influence on the suspension movement than just savings xj springs. The free body diagram in my head tends to agree... It's a statics problem and I want a dynamics problem...

An anti-wrap bar in the rear will drastically increase anti-squat in the suspension. You can run the calculations for it, but the driving factor is how far forward and low the mounting point of the arm is. Either way, most would agree that too much rear anti-squat is better than axle wrap.
 
A triangulated 4 link would help soften the rear suspension :flipoff2:

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It'll happen next winter. I've already made my mind up on that.

An anti-wrap bar in the rear will drastically increase anti-squat in the suspension. You can run the calculations for it, but the driving factor is how far forward and low the mounting point of the arm is. Either way, most would agree that too much rear anti-squat is better than axle wrap.

100% agree that more anti-squat is preferred over axle wrap.
 
Ultimately what needs to be done to help the rear, while staying on leafs, is two things.

1) Cut down the leaf perches. They are simply too long and reduce the length of the spring that is able to act as a spring and this makes it much stiffer
2) Move the front leaf mount towards the rear. Right now, even after straightening the leafs and removing one of them, the shackle angle is horrible. It's currently vertical so it's transmitting all force directly into the frame vertically.
 
Ultimately what needs to be done to help the rear, while staying on leafs, is two things.

1) Cut down the leaf perches. They are simply too long and reduce the length of the spring that is able to act as a spring and this makes it much stiffer
2) Move the front leaf mount towards the rear. Right now, even after straightening the leafs and removing one of them, the shackle angle is horrible. It's currently vertical so it's transmitting all force directly into the frame vertically.

Will Boomerang shackles help?
 
That's currently what's on it. Boomerang shackles only help with clearance between the shackle and frame/bumper/whatever. They still act like a standard straight shackle in terms of how the force is applied to the frame. That is why I need to move the front hanger back. It'll move the whole axle back and create a better shackle angle.
 
That's currently what's on it. Boomerang shackles only help with clearance between the shackle and frame/bumper/whatever. They still act like a standard straight shackle in terms of how the force is applied to the frame. That is why I need to move the front hanger back. It'll move the whole axle back and create a better shackle angle.
I had the same issue with mine. I ended up using Dakota spring and relocating the shackle hanger. Now I have probably too much angle but that's a problem for another day.
 
Got the rear of the perches trimmed and all I can say is WOW. Night and day difference. I knew it was affecting it but not to that extent. Now it’s a nice soft ride whether down a dirt road or at 60 down the road.

before and after shots.

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In VA that YJ would be an antique with no inspection necessary! Didn’t realize NC is 35 years before they wave inspections.


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In VA that YJ would be an antique with no inspection necessary! Didn’t realize NC is 35 years before they wave inspections.
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Funny thing is this jeep has a VA salvage title. It should pass inspection but the only thing they could ding me for is the full hydro steering. I believe in NC there is a requirement that it must have a mechanical linkage from the steering box to the knuckle. We'll see what happens.
 
Funny thing is this jeep has a VA salvage title. It should pass inspection but the only thing they could ding me for is the full hydro steering. I believe in NC there is a requirement that it must have a mechanical linkage from the steering box to the knuckle. We'll see what happens.
I'd be surprised if anyone at the inspection place would even know wtf full hydro steering is
 
Color me surprised lol. He probably worked on a tractor or two in his time.

This guy is sharp (he's gotta be pushing 70+). I had the same shop inspect my truck a few months back and he made the following comment.

"What kind of gas mileage does that 8.1 get? 14mpg combined? 7 city and 7 highway right?"

Duder had me laughing way too long at that
 
This guy is sharp (he's gotta be pushing 70+). I had the same shop inspect my truck a few months back and he made the following comment.

"What kind of gas mileage does that 8.1 get? 14mpg combined? 7 city and 7 highway right?"

Duder had me laughing way too long at that
Hopefully in the future he just asks for your registration without seeing the vehicles.
 
Got some more seat time this weekend at the CTB Christmas party and closing weekend of Uwharrie. My wife also got some seat time and she did great. The Jeep did just fine but I’m finding things I want to change.

things to change:
1) Seat mounts. Really needs a frame tied into the cage.
2) Rear leafs. The military wrap leaf I made is hindering spring performance.
3) Front axle shaft alignment. With a spool in the front, the axle shafts would do better if the ujoints where in phase. I find when steering around sharp turns, the ujoints fight each other and don’t want to allow for easy turning.
4) harnesses needed. Right now the factory seat belts just don’t cut it. I still have the harnesses out of my XJ so those will go in with a harness bar.
5) tail pipe hits leaf spring perch when bouncing around at speed.

I’m planning to have all of this done before February.

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Threw on a 1” body lift which helped with the alignment of the grill/fenders. Initially my plan was to replace the radiator with a smaller one and the drop the grill down into the frame more. But, for the sake of time, I just lifted the tub. Also got the seat frame and mounts done over the past 2 days. Still need to make the harness bar and weld in the harness tabs. Then it’s onto the rear leaf springs followed by the front axle shafts.

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had a few hours of free time this afternoon so I knocked out the harness bar and started positioning the rear seat. Then decided to swap over to finding a home for the ARB compressor. It fit nicely behind the driver fender just above the rocker armor. I’ll knock out the wiring for it once I find a home for the switches. I’m thinking about a switch panel/box that will mount between the two front seats and make some cup holders to go with it.
I also met @Jeffncs yesterday and picked up another set of soft doors. My plan now is to skin one of the sets I have and color match them to the Jeep since it seems people want an arm and a leg for some YJ hard half doors.

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Hopefully in the future he just asks for your registration without seeing the vehicles.

I'm not gonna confirm or deny that this same guy inspected my bronco while it was sitting in my driveway.
But if you need info we can tell you where to go
 
Made a little more progress. Got the fenders glued together and the hood latches installed. I’m not a big fan of these fenders and plan to redo them later. Also got the ARB wired up, minus the switches, and an air chuck mounted under the hood for airing up if needed. Some other things knocked out include seat harnesses, mounted and wired winch (minus in cab controls), painted seat mounts and harness bar, and made a switch panel that’s going to be mounted between the seats with controls for the compressor, locker, winch, radio, seat heaters, 12v charging and aux input for the radio.

I’ve got the following items ordered and should be here over the next few days.

Gmrs radio
Bluetooth marine amp
Rear speaker pods
6x9 rear sleakers
Electronics enclosure for the switch panel
Sound deadening/heat sheilding
Floor mats

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