Round 2: Keepin' up with the Joneses, Mud Devils and Tony Woody

snipes243 said:
Interesting didn't realize the X doesn't have the normal thermistor options. Worst cause if you were using the the Holley 6 or 12" dash they have a separate thermistor input that you could display on the screen.

Thanks for the heads up on the acdelco sensors.
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You're correct on the termistor input on the dash, but it doesn't broadcast it back to the ECU if you want to datalog it. Not sure it would be very necessary, but it's good to know before choosing a certain path.

ACDelco 213-928 is what you want. I have the calibration data somewhere, if you need it, send me a PM ;)
 
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Bebop said:
You're correct on the termistor input on the dash, but it doesn't broadcast it back to the ECU if you want to datalog it. Not sure it would be very necessary, but it's good to know before choosing a certain path.

ACDelco 213-928 is what you want. I have the calibration data somewhere, if you need it, send me a PM ;)
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Just spitballin here but couldn't you also use the CAN I/O module to be able to get trans temp and trans fan control? Not the cheapest of ways to do it but likely the cleanest and easiest from a wiring standpoint. Plus having a bit more I/O to play with.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Just spitballin here but couldn't you also use the CAN I/O module to be able to get trans temp and trans fan control? Not the cheapest of ways to do it but likely the cleanest and easiest from a wiring standpoint. Plus having a bit more I/O to play with.
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Yes and Yes.

The cleanest way to do it on a wiring standpoint is to create integrate your own pullup resistor and map the data calibration on your own, that way you don't need any extra box / dash. But not everybody can / wants to do so.
 
Bebop said:
Yes and Yes.

The cleanest way to do it on a wiring standpoint is to create integrate your own pullup resistor and map the data calibration on your own, that way you don't need any extra box / dash. But not everybody can / wants to do so.
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You ever played with those add on modules? Likely gonna go that route with my next build. Be nice to have the extra I/O for when I decide to get dumb with stuff.
 
Another huge day in the shop. Whew!
Battery, winch and starter cables made and installed. Battery installed, alternator wired, cables made and buttoned up. Went with a dual post battery so I split up the heavy gauge runs on top and sides.
Fuel pump wired, SwitchPro installed permanently and wired.
Verified the winch still works. Holley just needs the ignition input turned on to be ready for initial programmed and boot-up.
One of those days where pics don't look much different from previous, but the amount of progress was phenomenal.
Still have some obvious clean up.and tidying to do, but the gist is there.
PXL_20230102_221950956.jpg
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Time for some advice from y'all.
This SwitchPros, SPod, fancy stuff is new to me. I've wired a plenty of rigs and always utilized relays, power blocks, etc.
In this case, I have 3ish circuits that need switched 12v/ignition on to make up. What is the preferred way to run power to 3 circuits off of the one output? 3 way splice?
I plan to have the ignition/switched 12v turn on the Terminator X, power up the coil and the power outlets (in dash). What's the cleanest way to do so?

easleycrawler said:
I'm still waiting on the retro 2 tone paint job.
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Once there is smoke from the tailpipe and it moves under its own power, I'll lay down some paint😎 Ford blue and white 2 tone in honor of Pops.
 
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Jody Treadway said:
Time for some advice from y'all.
This SwitchPros, SPod, fancy stuff is new to me. I've wired a plenty of rigs and always utilized relays, power blocks, etc.
In this case, I have 3ish circuits that need switched 12v/ignition on to make up. What is the preferred way to run power to 3 circuits off of the one output? 3 way splice?
I plan to have the ignition/switched 12v turn on the Terminator X, power up the coil and the power outlets (in dash). What's the cleanest way to do so?


Once there is smoke from the tailpipe and it moves under its own power, I'll lay down some paint😎 Ford blue and white 2 tone in honor of Pops.
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What kind of amperage are each of the circuits pulling?
 
Jody Treadway said:
No more than 25-30 total
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Are you currently running a switch pro style system? Most of those systems are just relay banks, either solid state (non replaceable relay fully electric) or mechanical relays mounted in a single box utilizing common battery power. They make running multiple circuits alot cleaner and offer a 3 switch in one feature (on/momentary/flash). If you are not running one I would use a set of relays with built in fuses to do the job (alot cheaper and can be just as clean when complete).
 
Mulishajoe said:
Are you currently running a switch pro style system? Most of those systems are just relay banks, either solid state (non replaceable relay fully electric) or mechanical relays mounted in a single box utilizing common battery power. They make running multiple circuits alot cleaner and offer a 3 switch in one feature (on/momentary/flash). If you are not running one I would use a set of relays with built in fuses to do the job (alot cheaper and can be just as clean when complete).
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I'm running a SwitchPros kit.
My question is what's the cleanest way to control multiple very low amp circuits off one single supply?
My ignition supply circuit will need to power the coil, the Holley ECU and 12 volt power outlets on the dash. The supply is capable of 35 Amps, looking for the preferred way to tie all 3 together.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'm running a SwitchPros kit.
My question is what's the cleanest way to control multiple very low amp circuits off one single supply?
My ignition supply circuit will need to power the coil, the Holley ECU and 12 volt power outlets on the dash. The supply is capable of 35 Amps, looking for the preferred way to tie all 3 together.
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I have a circuit in my buggy like what you’re describing. My ACC switch powers my personal fans, seat heaters, brake lights, and my reverse lights. All of these items just needed power and were “triggered” by other means. Fans and seat heaters have their own switches and my brake lights and reverse lights triggered from inline contacts.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'm running a SwitchPros kit.
My question is what's the cleanest way to control multiple very low amp circuits off one single supply?
My ignition supply circuit will need to power the coil, the Holley ECU and 12 volt power outlets on the dash. The supply is capable of 35 Amps, looking for the preferred way to tie all 3 together.
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Fused distribution block is what I'd use for that.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'm running a SwitchPros kit.
My question is what's the cleanest way to control multiple very low amp circuits off one single supply?
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Just splice them together @Jody Treadway

If they are 25-30amp you want to use the outputs 1 to 4 or the output 9 (make sure to splice both white wires together and not run 2 diffrent loads on each one separately).
If you have available outputs, the best solution is to wire each current consumer to a single output on the switch-pros and turn multiple on with the same button, but they may all be used and this won't be an available option.
If you want to fuse each consumer differently, running a little fuse block to split the output from the switchpros is an option, as @Chris_Keziah mentioned.

Chris_Keziah said:
You ever played with those add on modules? Likely gonna go that route with my next build. Be nice to have the extra I/O for when I decide to get dumb with stuff.
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I did. Not a big deal to wire and super easy to program, it's almost seamlessly integrated in the software.
 
Bebop said:
You dont need to fuse a switchpros output.

That's literally one of the reasons why you'd buy a switchpros.
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I agree with that but if your going to run 3 separate circuits off of one source it's still better to fuse them unless you want to run the risk of burning circuits. If you have a component that is 10 amp running with 2 others that are 5 amp (example) what do you fuse the switch pro at? 10 amp? That would fry a 5 amp circuit and never blow the fuse, on the other hand if you fuse it at 5amp and the 10 amp needs full amperage you pop the fuse. Seeing how 2 of the 3 circuits mentioned are ones that keep the engine running separate fuses would be much better ie: power outlet goes bad I can still drive home. Of course this is just my .02 hell people use extension cords to run circuits in there rigs.
 
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Mulishajoe said:
I agree with that but if your going to run 3 separate circuits off of one source it's still better to fuse them unless you want to run the risk of burning circuits. If you have a component that is 10 amp running with 2 others that are 5 amp (example) what do you fuse the switch pro at? 10 amp? That would fry a 5 amp circuit and never blow the fuse, on the other hand if you fuse it at 5amp and the 10 amp needs full amperage you pop the fuse. Seeing how 2 of the 3 circuits mentioned are ones that keep the engine running separate fuses would be much better ie: power outlet goes bad I can still drive home. Of course this is just my .02 hell people use extension cords to run circuits in there rigs.
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I agree with the logic.
 
I guess it defeats the purpose, but you could use the output from the switch pro to be the trigger wire to relays for each item. I realize that adds wiring and such but just a thought.
 
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