Secondhand Tin Can.

1stgenxxx said:
Did you order a cage kit or bend that yourself?
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I bought the halo and B pillar secondhand from someone.

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One of the things that was crucial for me to fix was where the rear bumpstops caused the frame rail to start to rust out. Since the company I was going to order rear frame stiffeners through took forever to ship them (still dealing with them to get my refund or possibly swapping out for a different product). I picked up 80 inches of 3/16th thick angle iron. I cut it down to two 39 inch pieces. So I had one for each side. The drivers side wasn't nearly as bad as the passenger side. Then cut one side off so i could drill holes to be able to extend it to incorporate my hitch bolts.

Then I drilled roseett holes and had to make relief cuts in order to shape it around the slight curves in the unibody. Then i welded the rosettes and did stich welds along the sides. On the passengers side I did weld a 1 inch wide by 10inch peice of flat bar on the inside of the frame rail just to provide more support.
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Grab some weld thru primer for stuff like stiffeners. Makes the process of painting later much easier.


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adamk said:
Might I suggest some padding on the B-Pillar next to the front seat head rests.....ask me how I know :driver:
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Thats my plan. I figured it was there for a reason lol.

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Well that moment you are driving home in the rain and you keep feeling water hitting you. Turns out I didn't silicone one set of sandwich plates enough.

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Well the head liner does not fit back inside in one peice. So i cut it into 3 pieces and now im redoing the fabric. The back two i had to notch around the cage. We are going to see if this is works.
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Got the headliner back in. I also got the ac recharged.
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On this episode of shit box chronicles. Locker popped in a turn and then i lost power steering. No squels or pops when the wheel is turned. Belt is good and the pump is new. Pump is circulating fluid with no bubbles or foam in the fluid.

I'll be hunting for the problem this weekend by isolating variables.


Does anyone have any links to full hydro builds for a dana 30 lol. Im tired of fighting steering issues.

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Keith1138 said:
On this episode of shit box chronicles. Locker popped in a turn and then i lost power steering. No squels or pops when the wheel is turned. Belt is good and the pump is new. Pump is circulating fluid with no bubbles or foam in the fluid.

I'll be hunting for the problem this weekend by isolating variables.


Does anyone have any links to full hydro builds for a dana 30 lol. Im tired of fighting steering issues.

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Go to a pick n pull and grab another pump and steering box for cheap. Didn’t you have binding steering earlier too? Put the front on stands and turn the wheel with the Jeep off. I wouldn’t rule out jacked up steering links if you feel any resistance through the steering wheel.

My old OTK T link turned like butter. A binding system would zap your pump pretty quickly.

Or you could just sell the pile and buy a RAZR. I heard that’s what all of the cool kids are doing these days.


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NickMaul said:
Go to a pick n pull and grab another pump and steering box for cheap. Didn’t you have binding steering earlier too? Put the front on stands and turn the wheel with the Jeep off. I wouldn’t rule out jacked up steering links if you feel any resistance through the steering wheel.

My old OTK T link turned like butter. A binding system would zap your pump pretty quickly.

Or you could just sell the pile and buy a RAZR. I heard that’s what all of the cool kids are doing these days.


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I just put on a brand new cross over steering with a raised track bar bracket and the track bar double shear on both ends.

Can pump go out and be perfectly silent?

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Keith1138 said:
Can pump go out and be perfectly silent?

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Apparently? If you “lost” power steering then the only thing powering it is the pump. Is there fluid in it? Is there air getting into it?


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NickMaul said:
Apparently? If you “lost” power steering then the only thing powering it is the pump. Is there fluid in it? Is there air getting into it?


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There's fluid in it and it is circulating. There was no foam or bubbles in it.

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Keith1138 said:
There's fluid in it and it is circulating. There was no foam or bubbles in it.

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That is what makes me think it is something proving resistance before the box. I wonder since my clock spring is broken if that couldn't have gotten pieces or woring wrapped around the steering shaft. Or if something else near the fire wall is causing it.

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Well i figured out why I lost power steering. Turns out I had a zip tie move and caused the line running from the gear box to my cooler to fold over. So I switched out the fitting to a 90 degree. That allowed me to re route the line so it isnt going straight up then down.

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I had a blast at the get together for all of us. Only carnage was a valve stem. But Colby valve saved the day. If you dont know what it is. It is a valve stem replacement that installs from the outside. Within 5 minutes I had the valve in and the tire inflated.
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Keith1138 said:
I had a blast at the get together for all of us. Only carnage was a valve stem. But Colby valve saved the day. If you dont know what it is. It is a valve stem replacement that installs from the outside. Within 5 minutes I had the valve in and the tire inflated.
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You can blame that one on your spotters who were too busy watching that overlanding yota' back into a tree :D
 
Buddy_Holly said:
Petition to rename this thread the Secondhand Tin Can?

Nice to see you again this weekend. Your Jeep went from 0-100 real quick
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Name has been changed.

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ramjo said:
You can blame that one on your spotters who were too busy watching that overlanding yota' back into a tree :D
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I was distracted by there shenanigans also. Dude in the white taco slammed that one tree.

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If you’re calling this ‘00 mint piece of rig a secondhand tin can, that must make my pile an already-recycled can
 
336wheeler said:
If you’re calling this ‘00 mint piece of rig a secondhand tin can, that must make my pile an already-recycled can
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Lol. Im calling it the secondhand can because majority of the parts I used to build it were secondhand.

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Pretty sure I am now getting some fairly decent axel wrap in the back. Im thinking about going with anti wrap kit like this one.

Antiwrap/Traction Bar Complete Kit

The problem im having now is coming up with a cross member. Im hoping to be able to design one that i can incorporate a transfer case skid plate into. Does any one have any ideas or experience?

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Go look at how @adamk did his, basic just welded in a crossmember just aft of the tcase. The Barnes kit is cheaper, and I can sell you the tube you need.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Go look at how @adamk did his, basic just welded in a crossmember just aft of the tcase. The Barnes kit is cheaper, and I can sell you the tube you need.
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Okay, ill see if i can find a picture of his. The barnes is out of stock I'm also thinking about going with the TMR one it is very similar to the barnes.

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