selling your rig? not here unless you're popular...

^^ it's his GIANT E-PENIS, I thinks is distorts reality...
 
"...but off road is a beast like no other Jeep. When in Double Low Range, any Jeep or Truck Enthusiast will be very very impressed with the crawling capability of this rig."

I thought it wasn't a crawler? dude, you're the biggest hypocrite on this site. you're talking out of both sides of your mouth. I'm gonna throw down my challenge. My cherokee vs yours any place, any condition. Hell, mine's missing a lower link right now and I'll still show up.
its not a crwler and never said it was. I was referring to the crawling (speed) crawling of the jeep in Double Low...how did that not get understood right and where you got "I have a crawler for sale" I clearly put XJ on 38s, doubler, new motor for sale not ROck Crawler for sale.
 
a rig with a doubler that isn't a crawler??? So, it is a Mall Crawler!?

why would you install a doubler if the rig isn't a crawler and just driving on dirt roads???
 
Some of you guys need to go back and re-read your posts- people have gone to jail for less cyber bullying. Just a heads up ;).


OP- most everyone on here started off putting too big of tires on too small of axles. What happens is that as you start to wheel more difficult trails than Richland Rd, you will discover that your stock parts just won't hold up. Everyone here has been through it, so there is a bit of experience coming from the advice being given. Keep in mind, the 4WD community is pretty tight, we typically enjoy wheeling with everyone. My advice is to be a little less objectionable, if you are happy with your setup, say your happy with it. Defending it by explaining how you are the exception to the rule and calling out everyone who disagrees goes against 100s of years of combined experience of breaking parts on the trail by the guys on this forum.
good right up dude and I totally agree with you....to a level of trail riding I can do with this setup....try real difficult stuff and I know i'll brake things....that's not what bothers me.....I defend the comments of "you can't drive it out of your driveway" "ur endangering peoples' lives" "that's a tampon rig with a headache for us to happen" "get that junk outta the woods u fool" that's what I defend. Like I don't know the limits of a Dana 30 on 38s>>>>>really people...not as stupid as you might want to think. but with new HD ball joints, New HD tie rod ends>>all Moog, and new HD Bearings I know i'm safe for what I do. I also know people with this kind of setup as myself, we just have to check our stuff more often for play and wear/tear. I wasn't born yesterday guys. 14 years, I know the weak links of what to replace BEFORE I even think of driving it nevertheless trailing it.
 
a rig with a doubler that isn't a crawler??? So, it is a Mall Crawler!?

why would you install a doubler if the rig isn't a crawler and just driving on dirt roads???
why not dude, freken bad ass that's why. better than spending money on 5:13 gears and carrier and lockers when doubler with a welder got me more bang for my buck!!duh
 
hey so in all seriousness while were pickin at the Doubler and Triplers, what's the best way to strengthen the front driveshaft that's so dam long, broke my first today in the back woods to a fishing hole and got my spare on but what's the best way to make it stronger. I got 4 months out of the first but really want to make one that can handle a bit of RPMs in Double low? any advise (serious) advise would be great from those more experienced with heavy duty driveshafts.

What actually broke? Did the drive shaft tubing twist like a pretzel, or did a U-joint break?

Considering how you use your vehicle, I would just take another stock XJ front DS, and have in lengthened and balanced at a reputable driveline shop, and also rebuild it with new Spicer U-joints.

The front DS is only turning half as fast when you have both TC's in low, but you are putting twice as much torque through it. Shaft speed is most likely not your problem, even though the shaft is longer, and thus will have a lower critical speed.
 
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why not dude, freken bad ass that's why. better than spending money on 5:13 gears and carrier and lockers when doubler with a welder got me more bang for my buck!!duh

That doesn't answer his question? unless your sole reason was "freken bad ass". but then again, I expected no less.

you're new avatar should be:
awww.shopatnorway.com_images_840284_LA_troll_norway.jpg
 
What actually broke? Did the drive shaft tubing twist like a pretzel, or did a U-joint break?

Considering how you use your vehicle, I would just take another stock XJ front DS, and have in lengthened and balanced at a reputable driveline shop, and also rebuild it with new Spicer U-joints.

The front DS is only turning half as fast when you have both TC's in low, but you are putting twice as much torque through it. Shaft speed is most likely not your problem, even though the shaft is longer, and thus will have a lower critical speed.
well I did and held up for some time but the other day I went to fishing hole, wanted to play around in this ditch and go up steep hill, gave it too much rpms and front DS went. so is it bigger tubing that will improve the strength or bigger HD joints? thanks for reply
 
its not a crwler and never said it was. I was referring to the crawling (speed) crawling of the jeep in Double Low...how did that not get understood right and where you got "I have a crawler for sale" I clearly put XJ on 38s, doubler, new motor for sale not ROck Crawler for sale.

it just further demonstrates your lack of intelligent thought. when someone asks, "how's it crawl" they mean how does it do in the rocks not how slow does it travel down a gravel road with absolutely no need for four wheel drive. my challenge still stands.
 
I guess bigger joints will have to do then. that other setup someone showed me looks to be too much money for my setup now.
 
it just further demonstrates your lack of intelligent thought. when someone asks, "how's it crawl" they mean how does it do in the rocks not how slow does it travel down a gravel road with absolutely no need for four wheel drive. my challenge still stands.
yeah yeah yeah, u know about your challenge.......I PRAY THAT I MY FINANCES SQUARED AWAY so I can keep this toy and come out to ride a few moderate trails with you.
 
yeah yeah yeah, u know about your challenge.......I PRAY THAT I MY FINANCES SQUARED AWAY so I can keep this toy and come out to ride a few moderate trails with you.

yeah, you do that :lol:
 
Moderate trails hahahaha I got one for ya its called my driveway there is at least 3 mudholes like 6" deep you might have to use double low
 
His "junk" broke going fishing.

Yet he continues to say how much he knows and how well built it is.

Just let tha sink in for a little bit. Let that simmer on your brain..............
 
why not dude, freken bad ass that's why. better than spending money on 5:13 gears and carrier and lockers when doubler with a welder got me more bang for my buck!!duh

Gears are cheap, so is a locker. If you drive on the road, lockers are better. You'll find that a $250 locker will have much better road manners than a welded rear and will save your tires and not stress your axles.

5.13 gears front and rear will help with highway driving and off road. a doubler really doesn't do much for road driving so you are stuck with 38s and crappy 3.xx gears.

The cost of a new front and rear driveshaft (at least one that is worth a damn) to fit your doubler setup is likely about 60% of the cost of just simply installing the correct axle gears. So, unless you hack your driveshafts up and do it yourself with some POS poop pipe, you are already spending most of the cost of doing the gears right. If you can install gears yourself, they the gears are cheap and the more correct way to go, especially for a "non" crawler... Welded gears are OK, just not the best and is usually best suited for trail only rigs.
 
Holy fuck this is great I needed a good laugh. Op you sir are a damn moron my wife could build a better rig than you and that's no lie! Ill gladly hook my shit box of a Zj with un-needed chromo shafts up to that pos you call an Xj.
 
well I did and held up for some time but the other day I went to fishing hole, wanted to play around in this ditch and go up steep hill, gave it too much rpms and front DS went. so is it bigger tubing that will improve the strength or bigger HD joints? thanks for reply
Yes bigger tube helps. I run .250 wall 3" on my rear. You want to run the hd brute force joints from auto zone
 
Snappy you are a true gentleman and I applaud you. To the bitter end you are trying to help this moron I guess we all could learn a bit from your conduct.but jeepster you are to stupid for your own good and the good of those in your vicinity
 
Holy fuck this is great I needed a good laugh. Op you sir are a damn moron my wife could build a better rig than you and that's no lie! Ill gladly hook my shit box of a Zj with un-needed chromo shafts up to that pos you call an Xj.

But that would mean I would have to get out of the kitchen! :eek:
 
Dude this is a great forum with some of the great people to wheel with.That being said u get respect when respect is given,you cant come on here making BS statments about stuff u obviously have no clue about then get pissed and try to call out some very reputable people on here(not a good way to make friends here).everyone has different ideas for building there own rigs from all walks of life and thats what makes this sport so great you can spend as much or as little as you want and u can allways upgrade because there is no"perfect rig"


OH YEA,if u really wanna sell it put a big stereo in it and some chrome wheels and list it as a "DONK" on craigslist! lol
 
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