Shop building....

As others have said, go bigger. My garage (drive out basement) is 30x40 with a 12x10 bump out, kinda L shape. It has 2 garage doors and a personnel door. 2 cars wide and a nice work area is about it. I'm able to fit 3 cars because of the bump out, truck and jeep nose to tail.

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Didn’t read all the comments but I’ll add 2 things.

1) I personally know of 4 people close to me that spoke of Capital Buildings after using them in the highest regard. 2 of those people are the kind to really shop around for the best service at a reasonable price.

2) I would use a good densifier on the concrete before you move into the shop. It will make it harder, sealed and dust proofed which will be easier to clean and resist oil stains and such better. It is very affordable and easy to apply. You can PM me for more details if you want. Euclid Diamond Hard would be my choice, I have it, Google it.
 
You guys amaze me LOL After working outside in what ever weather or not working because of weather, I'd be delighted to have a shop big enough to pull either of my Suburban's, My 87 LWB Ford truck, or My Jeep in. If I had room at one end for a bench, room enough on the sides for my tool boxes and stuff as well as room for the floor jacks to work. I'd be happy. To upgrade it, it had enough power for all equipment, a woodstove to heat it, and maybe a Window unit to knock out the high temps in the summer, I'd be even more happy.

I don't borrow, so what I will have in the future will be paid for in cash. So that does limit me some.

One of my best friends has a shop at his house, a 40X40. It has one lift, on the side, and a reading room, in the back corner. Outside of the reading room, there is a sink, on top of the reading room, there is some storage and a very small water heater. It has a drain in the very center. Work benches and tool boxes at the very back, with an 8' deep loft, that spans the width of the building less the reading room, for storage. It supports 2 race cars, a Jeep build, and plenty of room to work on stuff. 2 8' doors, 1 12' door, and a side walk through door.
The building also has a lean-to built on one side for two deep storage of other vehicles.
All in all, this would be my dream building/workshop. Only changes I would make would be some ceiling fans, better sound system( I like music, and I like it loud, when I am working alone) a lean to on the other side(which in his case he's limited on space) and a covered "porch" in front.
 
77GreenMachine said:
I would use a good densifier on the concrete before you move into the shop
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I won't allow my kids to vote democrat! I damn sure ain't letting my shop floor vote that way either!
 
CasterTroy said:
I won't allow my kids to vote democrat! I damn sure ain't letting my shop floor vote that way either!
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Would you prefer another brand? I have several. Perhaps Retro Plate, L&M Seal Hard, LiquiHard Ultra?

I could talk concrete all day, kind of a nerd about concrete lol.

I have a good relationship with Euclid, and it’s what is specified a lot of times. And when I sell a few truck loads of their product, the rep takes me fishing
 
Just for S&G's I called General Steel to "price" a building. The salesman told me about a "black friday" carryover sale they're having right now

30x80x12 for $19,600
40x80x12 for $25,400

This is basically JUST the shell and steel etc.

Just putting that out there for anyone interested
 
77GreenMachine said:
Didn’t read all the comments but I’ll add 2 things.

1) I personally know of 4 people close to me that spoke of Capital Buildings after using them in the highest regard. 2 of those people are the kind to really shop around for the best service at a reasonable price.

2) I would use a good densifier on the concrete before you move into the shop. It will make it harder, sealed and dust proofed which will be easier to clean and resist oil stains and such better. It is very affordable and easy to apply. You can PM me for more details if you want. Euclid Diamond Hard would be my choice, I have it, Google it.
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im wanting to looking into Capital as well for my building. Glad to hear more good words about them.
 
CasterTroy said:
Just for S&G's I called General Steel to "price" a building. The salesman told me about a "black friday" carryover sale they're having right now

30x80x12 for $19,600
40x80x12 for $25,400

This is basically JUST the shell and steel etc.

Just putting that out there for anyone interested
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Hmm. They quoted me @ 15k for a 40x60x14. I thought that was reasonable.
 
I got a quote from someone a while back and they told me something like 32,500...but if I bought it within the next 7 days, I could get it for 23,500. Didn't make much sense to me.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I got a quote from someone a while back and they told me something like 32,500...but if I bought it within the next 7 days, I could get it for 23,500. Didn't make much sense to me.
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Yeah that was the deal here too. Needed a deposit tonight to hold that price.
@tknopp was that price delivered?
 
CasterTroy said:
Just for S&G's I called General Steel to "price" a building. The salesman told me about a "black friday" carryover sale they're having right now

30x80x12 for $19,600
40x80x12 for $25,400

This is basically JUST the shell and steel etc.

Just putting that out there for anyone interested
Click to expand...

Figured you already knew this but those kind of buildings are “designed” for certain sizes 20x40 40x60 60x60 (not saying that’s what they are designed at just examples) basically a 30x60 is going to be really close to the same cost as a 40x60 because all they do is pull so metal panels and sent it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I used to build pre-fabs ...... literally built 100's of them in the 80s-90s. Thats why I'm so darn old now .....

But,
All things considered, it looks like they are going at 8 bucks a square foot. 0_0
IF you are 100% certain you are gonna do it, do the the grading, then get the salesman to come to you.
Just about all pre-fabs have wandering salesmen.
If he sees you are ready to build .... you should have massive leverage in price.

They seriously have about 25-30% into the manufacturing.
In the 80s the building sold for a buck a square foot, we built it for for about $1.50 per.
The money was in time .... we could turn a 100x100 in a week.

Unless my math is wrong, you're looking at $8.00 per on the ground. That sucks.

But then again, I may be way off base here ..... hadn't been in it for a very long time.

Matt - throwin' in a couple of lincolns ...
 
Loganwayne said:
Figured you already knew this but those kind of buildings are “designed” for certain sizes 20x40 40x60 60x60
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Yeah I did a little lurking on their website to see what "common" was.

I've done enough "upfits" to these type buildings to know the drill on what to expect. Hence why I think I may very well go wooden post/truss construction. (@shawn @trailhugger and advice on my thinking with this?) Mainly because I'm building an "apartment" onto mine to house my wife and I during the construction of the house in the next couple of years, as well as then being a place for our parents when they age out of being capable of taking care of themselves (her parents are older than my mom....the likelyhood of having 2 people living there ...well besides my wife and I....is relatively low, so it's designed as a one person apartment)

The whole red iron building concept would be fine if it weren't for the living space element. That's where I think maybe carolina may be a better solution. This is just ONE floor plan. Once I get about 4 more done of various sizes and configurations to price, I'm contact carolina and see what I'm facing.

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I contacted Carolina Post Frame Construction and asked about a 30 x 40 x 12:

$32000 ballpark including insulation and concrete. We pull all permits and provide fill dirt.

Capitol told me roughly $12K with concrete but I know that does not include electric or insulation.

What size is that floor plan Caster?

We are also planing a garage with living upstairs closer to the house later. So that is why I was looking at 30x40. Her house needs some work. Specifically the basement flooded when Mathew came through here and everyone I'm talking to about it says it probably needs to be resealed and a drainage system set up around it. So we will need a place to stay when we do that.
 
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ghost said:
What size is that floor plan Caster?
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I started with a 50x30 shop, and added what I thought was the MINIMUM for an apartment to the end. Can you read these dimensions?
 
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I would also add another bathroom outside the living area, depending where it is compared to your house. I doubt your MIL will want you coming to read a mag in her house while youre out at the shop.... and plan for double think wall there so you can insulate and work late without disruption.
 
i always wanted a shop house. that said i would have 2 6in stud walls 6-8ft apart with exterior grade doors on both hall ways. one side can have a shop bathroom only access from shop. other side can be storage or tool room middle where doors are have a mudroom with washer and dryer.
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paradisePWoffrd said:
I would also add another bathroom outside the living area, depending where it is compared to your house. I doubt your MIL will want you coming to read a mag in her house while youre out at the shop.... and plan for double think wall there so you can insulate and work late without disruption.
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It'll either be a 6" stud wall from floor to roof, or an 8" block wall filled with insulation between the shop and apartment. Neither my wife, nor my MIL appreciate the sound of an impact :rolleyes:


tknopp said:
I think that living area is going to be kind of tight at only 30ft deep.
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That was the bare minimum (for pricing)

More than likely it will be some sort of iteration of this

plot 6.JPG




Below is the "shoot for the moon" plan where I get everything I want

plot 5.JPG


Where there's a second room (for guests once whomever gets settled) but would serve as my wife's office (she works remotely) while we were building. Can't put a closet because my septic field permit is only for 4 "bedrooms"

That's also why no second shitter. The house won't be so far away that I can't waddle with my finger up my butt over to the house to avoid trashing "granny's" shitter
 
ghost said:
I contacted Carolina Post Frame Construction and asked about a 30 x 40 x 12:

$32000 ballpark including insulation and concrete. We pull all permits and provide fill dirt.

Capitol told me roughly $12K with concrete but I know that does not include electric or insulation.
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This is why I ended up doing mine myself. The $32k guy is too expensive for my budget, and there is no way the $12k guy is doing it for that price. Just concrete for that size is $5k, so they are selling you the building and putting it up for $7k? If it seems too good to be true, someone is probably full of shit.
 
CasterTroy said:
It'll either be a 6" stud wall from floor to roof, or an 8" block wall filled with insulation between the shop and apartment. Neither my wife, nor my MIL appreciate the sound of an impact :rolleyes:




That was the bare minimum (for pricing)

More than likely it will be some sort of iteration of this

View attachment 258595



Below is the "shoot for the moon" plan where I get everything I want

View attachment 258596

Where there's a second room (for guests once whomever gets settled) but would serve as my wife's office (she works remotely) while we were building. Can't put a closet because my septic field permit is only for 4 "bedrooms"

That's also why no second shitter. The house won't be so far away that I can't waddle with my finger up my butt over to the house to avoid trashing "granny's" shitter
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only suggestion is to flip the bath and bedroom where it is not against the shop wall. No matter how much insulation, there will still be some vibration transfer.
 
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