Tractor time

[Blkvoodoo]

Ran into somebody today that said that the kubota dealer here in Sanford (Central Carolina Power Equipment) is loaded up with used machines. They're taking in a lot of trades, seems everybody is buying new right now. This is second hand info, YMMV.

Kubota financing is pushing pretty hard, 0 down, 0 interest $99 a month starting with the SCUT and going up from there. It’s enticing, but I’m good with what I’ve got. And no payments

 

[kaiser715]

Timely and relevant:

 

[kaiser715]

I needed some water down at the shop today, so I filled a 330 gallon IBC tote 1/3 full, so about 110 gallons, making 913 pounds, plus the weight of the tote. Had to let out about 5-10 gallons so I could lift it with the L2501. Was able to get it far enough off the ground to go from the house to the shop. Also moved a cheby motor on a pallet and a few axles. CUCV set on a pallet just about maxed it out again. For doing stuff around the shop I wouldn't want any less lift capacity.

 

[anvilrubi]

 

[untchabl]

@Ron @CLRracer here are some more pics of the tractor and some of the extras we've got for it. Thinking we're going to ask $6500 for the tractor with the FEL with the forks and the bucket along with both sets of rear wheels/tires. Other implements are available but don't have prices yet but can figure out something if anybody is interested.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

Also agree that it seems like a lot of hours, but there's hours then there's hours lol.
Duane

you say this, and there is something you or others may need to be aware of as well, A cable driven tachometer that also registers hours is much different than a "key on" hour meter that is electrically powered.

consider an engine running @ 1000rpm (idle speed for most smaller diesels) for one hour VS one running at 2900rpm (max speed for most) the hour ramp isn't the same.

Operating at "PTO speed" which on my little machine is 2750 (540rpm at rear pto, 2250rpm @ mid pto) is the most accurate hour rate accumulation.

Pay attention to the type of meter on the machine, a meter integrated in the tach with analog rolling digits is likely to read this way, the biggest thing, MAKE SURE IT WORKS.

Same thing with any other type of hour meter, key on and and ticking doesn't mean its registering. allow the machine to run 20min, meter should move at least 2 1/10 digits in that time from start up. (6min per 1/10hr) in 20 min it should move 3/10, but you never know the actual accuracy until you've operated for awhile.

I see a lot of nonfunctioning hour meters with what I do, I can't imaging it being any better in farm equipment.

 

[StretchASU]

If you’re not in a huge hurry, keep an eye on farm and estate auctions. Deals can be had and you might end up with a larger tractor than what you thought but more loader capacity and Pto HP is rarely a bad thing.

We have 3 machines. A 4wd 7610S with FEL, a 2wd 7610S and a 2910. Of these, the 2910 is the most versatile. It’s actually in the shop right now getting a full overhaul. Engine, clutch, gauges rewired, larger injection pump etc. The 40-60hp size tractors are great without being too tough on other parts like implement gearboxes and clutches.

If I was buying used, I’d go Ford/Newholland. Parts availability and cost is reasonable for the machines of their age. New or newish something orange gets my vote. The value is there, dealer network is pretty wide spread.

 

[anvilrubi]

^ this I can assure you. Plenty of equipment/farm auctions will be going on at the end of this year.

 

[braxton357]

I buy equipment at auctions weekly...rarely is there a better deal on tractors at auction than you can find on fb marketplace and beyond that even if you're at the auction in person you can't do a real inspection.

I tried to stay away from this thread because I'm pretty opinionated on this... But my advice is that if this is something you will keep and use for years, go to the dealer and buy a new 30+hp tractor with at least two rear remotes, fel and implements and never regret it.

 

[StretchASU]

I buy equipment at auctions weekly...rarely is there a better deal on tractors at auction than you can find on fb marketplace and beyond that even if you're at the auction in person you can't do a real inspection.

I tried to stay away from this thread because I'm pretty opinionated on this... But my advice is that if this is something you will keep and use for years, go to the dealer and buy a new 30+hp tractor with at least two rear remotes, fel and implements and never regret it.

Then why do you buy shit at auction weekly?

 

[Blkvoodoo]

I buy equipment at auctions weekly...rarely is there a better deal on tractors at auction than you can find on fb marketplace and beyond that even if you're at the auction in person you can't do a real inspection.

I tried to stay away from this thread because I'm pretty opinionated on this... But my advice is that if this is something you will keep and use for years, go to the dealer and buy a new 30+hp tractor with at least two rear remotes, fel and implements and never regret it.

When I bought mine used in 2010, I only intended to keep it a year, maybe 2, I didn't really have a need for it other than the yardscaping I originally bought it for. now 10years later, I toyed with selling, was never really serious about it (and the few that looked really didn't know what they wanted), I kinda wish id bought new, but i'm happy with what I have.
Looking for one that was a legit deal (not a scam) was pain in the ass, enough so that I did end up buying from a dealer.

 

[braxton357]

Then why do you buy shit at auction weekly?

Because I like to waste money.

 

[shelby27604]

When I bought mine used in 2010, I only intended to keep it a year, maybe 2, I didn't really have a need for it other than the yardscaping I originally bought it for. now 10years later, I toyed with selling, was never really serious about it (and the few that looked really didn't know what they wanted), I kinda wish id bought new, but i'm happy with what I have.
Looking for one that was a legit deal (not a scam) was pain in the ass, enough so that I did end up buying from a dealer.

Shopping for tractors is a nightmare, the number of scammers is only surpassed by the number of "I know what I gots"
Mix in a healthy amount of lipstick on a pig (freshly painted POS that was drug out of a field and classified as a restoration) and it is enough to drive you nuts.
There are deals to be made, but I won't hitch up my trailer and travel 250 miles one way to find them anymore.

 

[StretchASU]

[QUOTE="shelby27604, post: 1777455, member: 20003"
Mix in a healthy amount of lipstick on a pig (freshly painted POS that was drug out of a field and classified as a restoration) .[/QUOTE]

This is equally as bad with implements. Drag it out of the weeds, google what it used to look like, paint, list for 3/4 of what it cost new.

 

[Loganwayne]

[QUOTE="shelby27604, post: 1777455, member: 20003"
Mix in a healthy amount of lipstick on a pig (freshly painted POS that was drug out of a field and classified as a restoration) .

This is equally as bad with implements. Drag it out of the weeds, google what it used to look like, paint, list for 3/4 of what it cost new.[/QUOTE]


this is why i didn't buy a tiller this year and will be getting a brand new one sometime this fall/winter. most i found were within a few hundred dollars of new and needed some kind of work.

i did go buy some broken implements from @McCracken and fixed them up real nice.

 

[ponykilr]

I’m gonna jump I reckon. 0% Kubota on Standard L plus rebates through the end of the year.

I will sell the little diesel Shibaura but keep the International 424.

Probably will get the L2501 so no emissions equipment. I don’t need a lot of PTO HP as I will still brush hog with the 424. I need the loader and ease of HST for the wife.

Debating backhoe or not only due to decreased ground clearance with added frame brackets. It seems easy to take off and on and I know it would pay for itself (shovels and over 50 sucks) and don’t mind the added expense. The ground here is hard.

I wanted a top and tilt kit but when I try to build it online it won’t let you do backhoe and T&T. Will ask the dealer when I go get my best deal. A front grapple and forks will be in the deal too.

 

[awheelterd]

I’m gonna jump I reckon. 0% Kubota on Standard L plus rebates through the end of the year.

I will sell the little diesel Shibaura but keep the International 424.

Probably will get the L2501 so no emissions equipment. I don’t need a lot of PTO HP as I will still brush hog with the 424. I need the loader and ease of HST for the wife.

Debating backhoe or not only due to decreased ground clearance with added frame brackets. It seems easy to take off and on and I know it would pay for itself (shovels and over 50 sucks) and don’t mind the added expense. The ground here is hard.

I wanted a top and tilt kit but when I try to build it online it won’t let you do backhoe and T&T. Will ask the dealer when I go get my best deal. A front grapple and forks will be in the deal too.

I debated getting a backhoe for mine, but I have decided that it's easier and cheaper to A) pay .y neighbor to bring his full size backhoe over and do work or B) rent a mini excavator for a weekend. So far option A has been my go to since he is a real operator and my learning curve eats up alot of time.

 

[ponykilr]

I debated getting a backhoe for mine, but I have decided that it's easier and cheaper to A) pay .y neighbor to bring his full size backhoe over and do work or B) rent a mini excavator for a weekend. So far option A has been my go to since he is a real operator and my learning curve eats up alot of time.

My neighbor had a nice old Case excavator, bigger than a mini but not huge. He removed a bunch of stumps and used it quite a bit for his stuff and some stuff for me but he sold it last month for 12k more than he paid (pandemic prices) so…

I don’t have anything to make holes with in this hard ground. I would use it and I know it is something I want but those brackets look like they could be problematic. I want to see one in person.

 

[ponykilr]

 

[awheelterd]

@rockcity bought a Kubota with a loader and backhoe a while back. Maybe he can chime in with some firsthand experience and pictures

 

[ponykilr]

Here you can see the brackets under the tractor. Looks like they hang down a good bit but the only time I think it might be a problem would be on a steep small hill or crossing some log or something. Plowing/cultivating and such probably would drag them at times but not impede forward motion being flat steel.

 

[kaiser715]

FWIW, I got the backhoe (on L2501)....under 5 minutes on and off easy. What takes time though, 10 or so minutes each time, is putting on the 3pt parts. To do it over again, I'd NOT get the backhoe, and put that $$ into a used mini-ex instead. Much more capable digging machine than a backhoe on a tractor.

As far as clearance/hanging up/etc, tractors are not heavy equipment....some places (terrain) they just don't belong. There is the right equipment for that work (usually yellow). There are only a few places around here where I drag the subframe. It's really not a problem.

 

[shelby27604]

I am surprised to see the L2501 comes with a L525 loader. My L3400 came with a LA463. My understanding is the number in the loader designation is it's lift capacity (at the pin) in kg's. I wonder how the smaller tractor accommodates a higher capacity loader....better hydraulics, stability, marketing?

 

[rockcity]

I have the 2501 with the bh77. Got it all new in March/April.

Don’t have many hours on it but for each hour on the tractor I’ve saved at least 10 hours of manual hard labor.

I’m in eastern nc, so the backhoe makes quick work of most anything moderately sized. No rocks or clay to really deal with. But, for production work, it’s not fast. If you have a direct need, it may be wise to have it but really depends on need and if your ground is easy enough to dig with the small backhoe. Mine is. When I bought, I knew of 4 tasks tbat id need it for and renting a machine to do each of those tasks was about $5,000. The backhoe on the 2601 was more than capable, so I just purchased. I’ve already used it a handful of times on tasks I didn’t know I needed a bow for and it’s been worth it, even though I haven’t even done the original 4 tasks I bought it for.

Ground clearance is limited but have noticed a difference in capabilities.

BH is good for ballast as is filled rear tires. If you lift the capacity of the loader without ballast or filled rear tires, you are going to be really really light in the rear. Get filled rear tires. In fact, tbat should be standard with the LA525 IMO. Or get a ballast box.

I’d look around for options on grapples. The Kubota/land pride grapples are OK but they were way overpriced when I was looking. It only makes sense if you need to bundle in the financing. I ended buying one from a local tractor place for about $1800. It’s from S Korea but has the same function and appears well made as compared to any other. The Land Pride forks are $$$$. Many people cheap out and get the cheap titan forks and have been super happy with them. That’s probably my next purchase once I actually decide on 42” or 48” forks. Still waiting on my 20” backhoe bucket…

If you are in a hurry, good luck. Took me 2 months to get the tractor and FEL and another 2 months for the BH77. And talking with the dealer last week, they can’t even give me an idea of lead time on any of their attachments, said they would take my $ and call me when it ships, maybe next week, maybe 6 months from now.

 

[awheelterd]

I always use my fel with the bush hog or boxblade on back. Like Rob said, without something back there it's pretty light in the rear end.