Trailer Build

brokeass4runner said:
Work with me here because I am a very visual thinker.
John, is this what you meant?
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Yep thats it I would also put a fitting in the upper part to.
watch you gusset so as it will not hit the spring. you may need to make your shackles a little longer to clear but that will give you more movement.
Jon
 
brokeass4runner said:
I wanted to put the angle on first and then butt the decking up against it. So the angle is welded to the 3" C only.
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Yep, that is what I would do, angle it structural and the flat is not.

Seeing and talking about all this makes me want to build another trailer or just go out to the shop and weld something!!!!!!!!!!! :) Need to find a 6 lug axle, got 33" tires and the other junk to build an offroad trailer for cleanup at URE...
 
MR. GADGET said:
Yep, that is what I would do, angle it structural and the flat is not.
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I will go ahead with the fabbed EQ. Do you know of a good place to get the pieces for the grease fittings?

Should I think about rounding off the ends near the shackle?
 

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brokeass4runner said:
I will go ahead with the fabbed EQ. Do you know of a good place to get the pieces for the grease fittings?
Should I think about rounding off the ends near the shackle?
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What you got for the last pic will work fine. You can find the fittings at Auto Zone or napa you can get press fit or tap it.
Jon
 
just use greasable bolts instead of drilling the grease holes in the equalizer...


Also, remember that if you fab the equalizer, you should really put a double bevel on the top piece of steel so you can get a full pen weld. Weld it hot and burn the rod in there good. Watch out for cold lapping. This piece is critical and you really need to make sure it is fabricated properly. If you are a beginner, let someone else weld it. If it breaks loose while hauling, you'll have a good start to a bad day on your hands.
 
rockcity said:
just use greasable bolts instead of drilling the grease holes in the equalizer...
Also, remember that if you fab the equalizer, you should really put a double bevel on the top piece of steel so you can get a full pen weld. Weld it hot and burn the rod in there good. Watch out for cold lapping. This piece is critical and you really need to make sure it is fabricated properly. If you are a beginner, let someone else weld it. If it breaks loose while hauling, you'll have a good start to a bad day on your hands.
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Gotcha on the greasable bolts.

I was planning on a double bevel all the way around. We get our fare share of full pen prep/welding in each class. I was thinking I would use flux core or spray arc instead of sticking it.

I was also wondering if I could machine a solid piece instead of welding. We have some big hunks of metal out in the scrap yard. I don't know what kind of steel it is though, so that would be a problem.
 
spykosshow said:
Just curious as to what course this is for?
Good looking build though.
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The course is called Fabrication. We have it every Saturday from 7AM - 6PM. We have to design, draw up, and build three different projects. One for ourselves, one for the school, and one for a customer of our choice.
 
I worked for a bit after class and this is what I got done. Its all just tacked. I've got to add the brace in between the tongue pieces.
 

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It's not directly under the 3" because I figured it would be stronger to use 3 diff pieces than to use 5. It also gives me a place to mount the jack.
 

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With those braces on the front, what is going to happen if you turn sharp or, need to back the trailer at a sharp turn? There goes your bumper!
Never seen a trailer with braces like those.
 
kc4x4 said:
With those braces on the front, what is going to happen if you turn sharp or, need to back the trailer at a sharp turn? There goes your bumper!
Never seen a trailer with braces like those.
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I thought that it was a bad idea to be making sharp turns with a tandem trailer. So I just wont do it. Or I will build a bumper to battle the trailer.:flipoff2:
 
kc4x4 said:
With those braces on the front, what is going to happen if you turn sharp or, need to back the trailer at a sharp turn? There goes your bumper!
Never seen a trailer with braces like those.
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This is a VERY valid point...

I hate to be an ass, but I'm pretty good at it so...

It seems to me that since the beginning of this project you have asked for help/opinions then disregarded them then after you realized others were smart have altered your build to accomodate other ideas.

I am not bashing your build, but I believe you are going to end up much heavier than necessary and not nearly as strong as possible.

Of course I (apparently like most others on this board) don't know anything because I did not take a class :shaking: Good luck with your project next time I think you will do it much different.
 
brokeass4runner said:
I thought that it was a bad idea to be making sharp turns with a tandem trailer. So I just wont do it. Or I will build a bumper to battle the trailer.:flipoff2:
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Sometimes it happens, if you want it to or not.

Build a bumper to battle the trailer.........better carry a spare ball, something will give!!!

:popcorn:
 
ShyHiK5 said:
This is a VERY valid point...
I hate to be an ass, but I'm pretty good at it so...
It seems to me that since the beginning of this project you have asked for help/opinions then disregarded them then after you realized others were smart have altered your build to accomodate other ideas.
I am not bashing your build, but I believe you are going to end up much heavier than necessary and not nearly as strong as possible.
Of course I (apparently like most others on this board) don't know anything because I did not take a class :shaking: Good luck with your project next time I think you will do it much different.
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I put the braces there because I was advised to by someone on this post. Someone who has experiece with trailers.

I have taken everything that anyone has said into consideration. You have to understand that everyone and their mother thinks that I should do something different on this trailer.

Please next time read the posts before you start criticizing.

Thanks for the help.
 
kc4x4 said:
Sometimes it happens, if you want it to or not.
Build a bumper to battle the trailer.........better carry a spare ball, something will give!!!
:popcorn:
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I appreciate you pointing that out. I hope it doesn't come to me battling the trailer. I was just joking about that.

If you read the previous posts you will see that I put the bracing there based on suggestions from those on here with more experience than I. The braces are just tacked and can be removed. Since I started this build I have tried to take it step by step so that I can take constructive criticism from others.

I'm doing my best.
 
No criticism here. Look at the big name trailer makers, no braces like that for a reason (not needed)

Not bashing previous posters but, Don't buy everything you read on here. 1000 people......1000 opinions. You can't make everyone happy. KC
 
Fair enough, and I am in a really shitty mood... so that probably contributes.

I have not built nearly as many trailers as Rob I am sure, but I have built 8-10 of various sizes.

So "experince unlike you" is not really accurate, but then again you know my life story, I forgot.

You want advice?

Go back to page 1.
Choose reasonable sized material and a proven design.

Start with a ladder style frame. The FRAME should be the major structural point, the cross BRACES should, uh...BRACE...

You have chosen to put your braces on top of your frame, now any tortional forces that may be applied, (by say, maybe load shift or if you happen to hit a bump in a road with a load) will try to rip your cross braces and deck off your frame as opposed to the whole frame acting as a structural member and evenly distributing the force.

The weak point of this design is the weld, not knocking your weld at all, but I would rather have my tear point be a formed piece of steel than a weld.

I am sorry and maybe I take your posting style all wrong, but it appears that when someone adds anything that you dont want to do, you have a smart ass remark. Such as "tight turns are a bad idea", yeah and so are wrecks, but they happen and should be planned for.

You have a responsibility to everyone who will share the roads with your design for their safety, and I honestly think you have overlooked that in favor of what will be easy for you. It is a lazy build IN MY OPINION.

Why is there a 3" channel stacked on top of a 6" channel?
Why are the cross beams on top of the box frame rails?
What is the weight distribution for the axles?
I just think you designed and built this thing on the floor, instead of design on paper build on metal.

Either way, I wont waste my "inexperienced" opinion anymore.
Good luck.
And once complete could you please start a thread posting exactly what roads and what times this piece will be travling.
thanks
 
ShyHiK5 said:
Fair enough, and I am in a really shitty mood... so that probably contributes.
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In my moment of anger after reading your post I mouthed off as well, and for that I am sorry. I cleaned my post up a bit.

I really just want you (ShyHiK5) and others to know that I am not pulling this build out of my ass. I have a shit load of detailed drawings for this build.

I am not trying to say that I know more or anything by being in a class. I just want you to know that I go to school and recieve about 20 other "opinions" a day on this build. And as far as I know at the time, they are good opinions.

ShyHiK5, without sounding gay, I appreciate your opinion. It's just frustrating to build something and then have a bunch of people tell you its wrong. Then I go and "fix" the problem just to find out that I am wrong again.

I'm not out to piss anyone off by ignoring their input. This post has been very beneficial to me.

ShyHiK5, I will get you a list of those roads and times in 8 months when I am done with this build.:D
 
OK, back on topic.

I'm offering my OPINION from my experiences with building trailers. I'm no expert trailer builder, by no means. I'm just trying to point out good and/or bad things out and offer corrective measures to fix or alter the design or what not.

I only offered when I saw something that needed addressing. As in the front of the frame to be boxed from left to right. I merely asked a question why something was done a certain way (3" channel on top of 6" channel) as I am always wanting to learn IF there is a better way.

Closing in the front and rear portions of the frame, from my understanding, was in the original plans. If not, I figured it was a given that the front and rear must be closed in for proper strength and never questioned it until I saw pics.


OK, not to start anything again, but I though earlier in the thread that you were taught by an extremely capable fabricator...

Why then would he allow you to cut and fit the 6" channel on the tongue and front frame box (recent additions) without coping the additional channel to fit inside the existing channel??? (see red ovals in the pics) This type of stuff is elementary when someone is an experienced fabricator. Without this type of fit, you have zero strength. A weld is strongest in shear, which would be accomplished with the cope and 100% weld. Without the cope, the weld on the top and bottom flanges just isn't strong enough to be effective.

I'd cut it off and cope it to fit. It won't take long since its only tacked on there


Rob

trailer1.jpg

trailer2.jpg
 
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