Trailer Build

[brokeass4runner]

I picked up mounted maxxis trailer tire, load range E, on white spoke rims from them a couple months back. Free mounting and balancing too.
Shannon

Do you remember how much you paid?

 

[getstucksome]

i'll try to head out there before the week is up.

 

[Ron]

So are you planning on extending the deck all the way to the end of the cross beams?

That seems a little sketchy to me, anything outside the main runners looks like it will only be supported by the cross ties and the deck material.

In my (limited) experience the main beam is the most outward point, but may not be a problem.

Overall looks like a good build.

 

[BRUISER]

I would add a brace to outer part of cross braces if your vehicles tires will sit that far out

 

[brokeass4runner]

You don't think that the 3" channel can handle weight without support. It doesnt stick out that far from the frame rails.

I am going to run some angle down the side for tie down points and such. Do I still need to brace every crosspiece?

 

[brokeass4runner]

So I am learning the hard way to build a trailer. The equalizer is rated for 7000 lbs. So I need to look for other options. Any ideas? I also see that I overlooked the shackle angle as well. I am guessing that I will have to move my front and rear spring hangers.

Here is my shackle angle. Where can I get the right equalizer setup?

 

[rockcity]

I would put channel from the front corner (where red arrow is) to the tongue. This way you can get rid of the gusset and use it on the outside. It would also add strength and the weight of the rig would be supported by the 6" channel versus the 3" decking channel and the 6" cantelivered channel.
From experience, I and most other trailer bulders start off with a full rectangle frame, then add the tongue and decking to that. I've never seen a frame (other than boat trailer) that isn't 4 sided.

This will also help to strengthen the frame and keep it from twisting when loaded and running down the road.

Rob

 

[rockcity]

I'd look at Agri supply for the correct equalizer setup

 

[MR. GADGET]

So I am learning the hard way to build a trailer. The equalizer is rated for 7000 lbs. So I need to look for other options. Any ideas? I also see that I overlooked the shackle angle as well. I am guessing that I will have to move my front and rear spring hangers.

Here is my shackle angle. Where can I get the right equalizer setup?

Thats what I was talking about.
Just want to help, I'm not trying to put you or your trailer down, Thats why I ask stuff like " Why did you do it this way"
I could learn from you or maybe help you on what I have done.
As for this problem you can find them at any trailer builder like hudson or kraftsman or maybe make you own its not hard.
If you go the way of getting one like the ones most use it will make you change you springs and all mounts because they use a slipper spring like this - front is eye mount then slipper to Eq then rear spring is eye mount to EQ and slipper to the rear.
check out some of the big trailers out there and you will see.
Also what rockcity was talking about it is better to have the tongue mount to the outside of the trailer for less flex go look at some of the small trailers with the tongue like yours and walk on them to see the flex you get. Think of how that is driving down the road when you hit a bump.
I looked at two different trailers some time back and one with the tongue outside one like yours, the one outside had about 1" or less with me jumping up and down but the other had 3-4" of movement both were 10 k trailers.
If you put braces in it will trailer a lot better. Also front and rear of the trailer should have 6" C to tie each side of the 6" c rails, to stop the twist in the frame.
Jon

 

[brokeass4runner]

Ok, the rear will have 6" running along the width.

Are yall saying to run some 6" directly under the very frontmost 3"? Split into three sections?

 

[brokeass4runner]

Am I most likely going to have to switch to a slipper spring setup?
Or can I find an equalizer?

 

[MR. GADGET]

Ok, the rear will have 6" running along the width.
Are yall saying to run some 6" directly under the very frontmost 3"? Split into three sections?

Yes that is what I was talking about. It will also give you a place to mount you jack to.
I would also run from the outside corners to the tongue to tie it all in. it would make 4 pc going to the mount. that could be done after the trailer is built and then see what it feals like and how much movement.
J

 

[MR. GADGET]

Am I most likely going to have to switch to a slipper spring setup?
Or can I find an equalizer?

OK try this if you want, I have seen it done....
the problem is the cast pc EQ not the design, yes there are better but if you make a steel EQ and stronger shackles it will be better. for the shackles try going to 1/4 " or 3/8" think most stock are 1/8" to 3/16" ...you can get 1.5" wide 3/8" thick x 10'or 20' cheep cut to length and drill holes.
Next your springs are what 2" wide? get some 2" bar stock cut one pc 6"-8" to go from shackle to shackle make it long or short enough to get the angle you need on the shackle loaded. next cut a pc to length to get you the height you need to put the springs into place. Weld both PC together Need to be good and know what you are doing welding 2" solid steel You will end up with a upside down "T", most likely all sides of the "T" will be the same length.( I would do this after the trailer is finished so it can be at full weight for spacing, Welding springs to frame on they type EQ system is always the last thing I do to get angle on shackles)
What this will do is save you the money and time of cutting all the stuff you have off and paying for new springs and EQ system.
Yes solid 2" is over kill but you can drill it and put a grease fitting in all the holes or put a bushing in them. Yes there is other ways of doing it........ Not everyone has CAD and mill
Hope it helps
JOn

 

[brokeass4runner]

I am going to look into Agri supply for the equalizer since i hope i will be getting my tires from them. Building one may have to come down the road. I need to get this thing done.

You are saying also run a piece diagonally up to about half way on the tongue?

 

[MR. GADGET]

I am going to look into Agri supply for the equalizer since i hope i will be getting my tires from them. Building one may have to come down the road. I need to get this thing done.
You are saying also run a piece diagonally up to about half way on the tongue?

Yep but don't stop 1/2 way go to the hitch where you have it boxed..

Also looked at the local Agra no luck ou anything else then what you have..
Try kraftsman on 64 in Ramsour just tell him you are fixing up you junk and need parts he will sell them to you.
J

 

[brokeass4runner]

I am not sure if I have enough steel for that. So would running it at least half way be beneficial at all?

 

[MR. GADGET]

I am not sure if I have enough steel for that. So would running it at least half way be beneficial at all?

Yes but I would want to tie it across so use 3 pc one left one right and one short one to tie all 4 pc across in between the tongue thats in there now.

 

[rockcity]

You got the picture with adding the channel across the front (post #110). Don't know if I'd go all the way out to the outside, but its find if you do, it will do nothing but add strength (and weight).

If I added a piece from the outside corner to the tongue, I'd try to make it go to the coupler. If you have to tie it in half way up, put a short piece between the left and right sides to tie them in together.

This strength will be nice and will help keep the trailer from twisting, it will add weight. Keep that in mind since you already have your axles set. Adding to the front will increase your tongue weight.

Rob

 

[Shannon]

One quick thing, when you are ready to weld on the jack, don't forget it is a drop leg and weld it on too low. You can really have it up nice and high with the drop leg. I noticed it is sitting there cranked down, but it not dropped at all. Also make sure you have plenty of clearance for the jack handle to make a full turn with hands on it. You could extend the handle out with a bar to the edge of the trailer or leave it short and turn it to the front.

Question, if you are running the additional beam to the front, is the idea to also run a beam down the outside of the trailer to tie all the cross supports together? They you would need to run cross braces between the main C channel to the outer C? If just running it to the first cross beam, I really do not see the benefit.

Definately box the front and rear all the way across.

Shannon

 

[BRUISER]

One quick thing, when you are ready to weld on the jack, don't forget it is a drop leg and weld it on too low. You can really have it up nice and high with the drop leg. I noticed it is sitting there cranked down, but it not dropped at all. Also make sure you have plenty of clearance for the jack handle to make a full turn with hands on it. You could extend the handle out with a bar to the edge of the trailer or leave it short and turn it to the front.

I agree on mountign high

Mine is a 7000lb jack

here are some pics of mine so you can get an idea.

 

[brokeass4runner]

Yeah, I was planning on welding the jack in with enough room to crank it.

Since the thing is already a beast. Minus weight issues, what do you think of the setup below.

I don't have enough steel to run two pieces up to the coupler. So half way with the brace in the middle. Then 4" angle down the sides level with the deck.

 

[brokeass4runner]

I can cut the top corner off of each 3" C beam to allow the 4" angle to sit flush against each beam down the length of the trailer.

 

[MR. GADGET]

Yeah, I was planning on welding the jack in with enough room to crank it.
Since the thing is already a beast. Minus weight issues, what do you think of the setup below.
I don't have enough steel to run two pieces up to the coupler. So half way with the brace in the middle. Then 4" angle down the sides level with the deck.

Yep, I like it weld some expanded metal on the bottom of the front and it will give you a place to put straps and blocks.
J

 

[brokeass4runner]

And you think that the 7000 lbs EQ would be alright for now. Or should i just go ahead and fab up my own while i am moving my perches?

 

[brokeass4runner]

Work with me here because I am a very visual thinker.

John, is this what you meant?