Warrior Welding LLC shop.

WARRIORWELDING said:
10 pushed in smoothly. No walking and it shrank down uniformly. These bushes are really thin and a have a seam. I think the grease pattern was rolled into a sheet and then curled......
Any who the difference in the id and od of the pin landed were I thought ten would net a slip fit.

6 thousandth was the magic number. 4 would probably worked too.

Matt I read a lot about nominal for pin bushing size. Measuring by metric or standard unit would have netted a stupid amount.y initial set point was also along the line of something I read on a another forum. .0007 per inch of diameter for grease clearance. That math matches my other math for the 10 thou.


And if any body wonders why I didn't just recut.......well I learned the hard way finding true center after taking parts of the set up down to press bushes is damn near impossible with what I have on hand.
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So it’s a split bushing, and you’re just kinda spitballing how much it’s gonna compress? I was assuming a solid full round bushing and that number was the press fit.
 
jeepinmatt said:
So it’s a split bushing, and you’re just kinda spitballing how much it’s gonna compress? I was assuming a solid full round bushing and that number was the press fit.
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Yeap darn thing had a seam right down the length.
Spitballing? More like "swag": Scientific Wild Ass Guess.

I've never seen one before either.

Edit: part of the science of metals was putting the bushings in a pre press state with fancy hose clamps😂😂. Measured each in several quadrants and wrote them all down. Threw out the highest and lowest numbers and took the average.
 
Broken Ford tractor...someone had a woopsie!
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Torn down and prepped to weld.
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Few welds latter.
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The opposite side was showing signs of cracking out. The original weld was mostly on the cross over tube on both. The arms are only 3/16 thick tops. It's an aftermarket loader best I can tell.
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I choose to laminate the top and bottom out of an attempt to spread out the stress on the crossbar attachment point. Longer on the top for tension, shorter on the bottom since it should see mostly compression forces. 1/4 inch because it's already 30 percent or so thicker than the parent material.
 

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WARRIORWELDING said:
Few welds latter.
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The opposite side was showing signs of cracking out. The original weld was mostly on the cross over tube on both. The arms are only 3/16 thick tops. It's an aftermarket loader best I can tell.
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I choose to laminate the top and bottom out of an attempt to spread out the stress on the crossbar attachment point. Longer on the top for tension, shorter on the bottom since it should see mostly compression forces. 1/4 inch because it's already 30 percent or so thicker than the parent material.
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If I could weld like you, I’d break more stuff! 🤣
 
jeepinmatt said:
If I could weld like you, I’d break more stuff! 🤣
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Thnks! Sad thing is I used to be a lot better. I am adjusting to less mobility, eyesight and the rest. Would love to pass along experience and knowledge if I had enough to hire a young apprentice or helper. Its actually starting to be a burning goal. Not to make X dollars more but to teach. I enjoyed that aspect of the Community College experience I had but many things that go with it just don't mesh with my views.
 
That's beautiful work! My welding pisses me off pretty bad. 1. I don't do it enough to be good at it. and 2. I can't freaking see what I'm doing! I use lights but can rarely get them exactly where I need them. It's pretty frustrating.
 
R Q said:
I can't freaking see what I'm doing! I use lights but can rarely get them exactly where I need them. It's pretty frustrating.
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What brand of helmet are you using? I went from using an average auto darkening helmet to a lincoln 3350. Wow what a difference. You can see so much better what you are doing.
 
R Q said:
That's beautiful work! My welding pisses me off pretty bad. 1. I don't do it enough to be good at it. and 2. I can't freaking see what I'm doing! I use lights but can rarely get them exactly where I need them. It's pretty frustrating.
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Change your tint maybe? How dark you running?
 
Tom@Hilltop_Machine said:
What brand of helmet are you using? I went from using an average auto darkening helmet to a lincoln 3350. Wow what a difference. You can see so much better what you are doing.
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That's funny. I ditched all my auto gear for passive glass lenses. Got tired of fuzz and dead batteries.
I've ran several models my last was a high end Lincoln. Best view worst battery life.
 
awheelterd said:
Looks like too much cylinder for the loader.
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The hydraulics are monkeyed in with the rear lift. It's all an add on. I could barely get the lift to move for the loader or the rear three point. May have been the operator but this old girl is tired and puking out the cover plate for the pump.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
The hydraulics are monkeyed in with the rear lift. It's all an add on. I could barely get the lift to move for the loader or the rear three point. May have been the operator but this old girl is tired and puking out the cover plate for the pump.
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Yeah those cylinders look too large in dia and possibly too long
 
R Q said:
Tint is at 10
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Right in line with what most average amperage requires. I've had to adjust to cheater lenses and glasses. I prefer gold covered glass lense. Usually the arc creates all the light I need even in the dark. To much light coming in the back is just as much a problem.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Right in line with what most average amperage requires. I've had to adjust to cheater lenses and glasses. I prefer gold covered glass lense. Usually the arc creates all the light I need even in the dark. To much light coming in the back is just as much a problem.
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Something told me you had expensive tastes.
 
awheelterd said:
Looks like too much cylinder for the loader.
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I'm guessing its from bucking trying to cut dirt with a 2wd tractor. Judging by the taper and cylinder location, the highest bending moment concentration on that arm is also right where they disrupted the stress flow by drilling a hole and welding a tube on.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'm guessing its from bucking trying to cut dirt with a 2wd tractor. Judging by the taper and cylinder location, the highest bending moment concentration on that arm is also right where they disrupted the stress flow by drilling a hole and welding a tube on.
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*Note to self, check Kubota loader when I get home
 
awheelterd said:
*Note to self, check Kubota loader when I get home
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Why? It's gonna break there whether you check it or not. No need to waste time checking. ;)
 
Owner said much older gentlemen who is help has been known to damage rafters and barn material.

I think the obvious at speed operation and a sudden stop was involved.

Keep in mind this is the same outfit that brought me the hay rake snapped in half at the gear box. It sheared a 5/16 to 3/8 plate clean off a roughly 6 by 6 eighth inch thick tube fully welded all around taking out most of the 3/4 hardened studs with it.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Owner said much older gentlemen who is help has been known to damage rafters and barn material.

I think the obvious at speed operation and a sudden stop was involved.

Keep in mind this is the same outfit that brought me the hay rake snapped in half at the gear box. It sheared a 5/16 to 3/8 plate clean off a roughly 6 by 6 eighth inch thick tube fully welded all around taking out most of the 3/4 hardened studs with it.
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I think that guy works for me
 
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