Warrior Welding LLC shop.

Farther down the road.
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The frame work in virgin steel was done first. Clips and related was all done after the fact. You can see the air tube in the lower portion. It's removable in case it clogs. I hope the air flow keeps it at temps that doesn't promote to much deterioration and warping.
 
Anybody guessing what I'm up too yet?
 
Not working on the jeep project in the corner of your shop??
Well that's true. I'll call this low hanging fruit. The Jeep is really held up because I can't yet buy what I want for fuel management. I should probably accept what I can afford and just put something together.
 
More pic-ah-churs.
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Caster plates. Because not enough shop to many gadgets.
BTW this entire project has been drops or scraps with the exception of casters and the fire bricks in the next photo to the his point.
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Lined for protection from the fuel and heat.

And since it has the adjustable air gate.
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A removable baffle.
 
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Baffle will be held with drop in pins.
 
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Got these super glued back on this afternoon. Never saw a bucket with elf ears😂. Not exactly ecstatic about the design and the built in stress riser of the tab. Welded it out to the best of my ability and chamfered all the related weld endings. I used run off tabs and would love to add some reinforcement. I don have the machine for clearances around the stick so I'm just gonna send it.
 
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Pick a project! In the fire related work been covered up for a while. Making headway on several. This isn't all me but I've got hands in most all of them.
 

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Meanwhile...working on the his green machine at the moment.
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Upper and lower on this stick. New bushings, pins, and seals.
Making one of two final passes on the bottom and I'll face the lower bore. Needed about .125 of build up to tighten the faces up.

I got to contact the customer next. They sent what appears to be the bush at the base of the main stick. All I got was a big box of parts and a machine.
 
I was wondering why I hadn't seen 1216 lately...
Cab has to come off. All the fire related comes out...then the Ford.
 
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About dis much on the he radius and I'll be right, 😂.
Learned these bronze graphite bushings don't like any extra smush. Small window or final honing of the bush is required for pin clearance.
 
Alright... you got me. What are you measuring , and with what kind of mic?
Measuring tool offset on the boring bar. It's a little line boring specific set up. It has a machined v-block and a leg the same size as the lathe tool holes. This located it true to the bar. The plunger part of the mic barrel is adjusted against the tool base in the next port. You can work it from that like any other. Set zero off the tool. With a known bore size you can calculate the cut based on radius.

Here's another gadget I had to mod. Big ol fancy set of various pieces just want arrive at a tool to fit in the bore with the bar and work right. I'll get more pictures of it in the bore maybe tomorrow. It's called a snap gauge.
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Hands down the easiest most accurate way to get bored diameter and not have to remove the boring bar every time. My bar has sets of double holes. Tool never has to come out to measure and set depths. Slick but it's still a time consuming process. The calipers only get used to rough in anything. The rest I measure with my machinist micrometers.
 
The bore on these allow for .208 clearance between my bar and the finish size. If I had a small bar it would be a bit easier. The sacrifice would be rigidity of the set up. I made the mistake of building to much of the id with weld only once!! Boy that sucked. Lots of die grinding latter I got the bar back in to get to cutting.

On another note I put over 30 lbs of wire in one job on one hole and faces.
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80 plus millimeter shaft.
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Sounds like it! A true are-tits!
Self taught line boring. Machining back ground is related to a community college degree and years of working around not having proper equipment. This whole line boring deal has me wanting lathes and mills something awful!
 
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