What have you done to your rig today?

ShimShim said:
I couldn't see any clips either internal or external. The rear had external clips that were pretty easy. I applied copious amounts of heat but still nothing. Truck is going to the dealership today to get the broken header bolts replaced. I'm hoping they won't charge an arm and a leg just to remove the U joint. They quoted $515 per axle for the whole job of U joint replacement. If they want something ridiculous for it, I'll find a shop that can do it more reasonably. I've exceeded my abilities and patience at this point.
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Update for anyone with a Ram. According to the dealership, this is a non-serviceable driveshaft. Even on their parts schematic, you can buy the bolts that hold the shaft to the pinion, and you can buy the whole shaft, but you can't buy the U joint. It's made to not replace the U joint but the whole driveshaft. Service foreman seemed surprised by this as well. Guess that explains why every auto parts website I went to only listed U joints for the rear driveshaft, and none for the front :shaking:
 
ShimShim said:
Update for anyone with a Ram. According to the dealership, this is a non-serviceable driveshaft. Even on their parts schematic, you can buy the bolts that hold the shaft to the pinion, and you can buy the whole shaft, but you can't buy the U joint. It's made to not replace the U joint but the whole driveshaft. Service foreman seemed surprised by this as well. Guess that explains why every auto parts website I went to only listed U joints for the rear driveshaft, and none for the front :shaking:
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If you measure the u-joint, is it an odd size? They had to put the ujoint in the yoke somehow, to begin with. If there isnt one that will fit, I guess there's nothing else you can do.
 
ShimShim said:
Update for anyone with a Ram. According to the dealership, this is a non-serviceable driveshaft. Even on their parts schematic, you can buy the bolts that hold the shaft to the pinion, and you can buy the whole shaft, but you can't buy the U joint. It's made to not replace the U joint but the whole driveshaft. Service foreman seemed surprised by this as well. Guess that explains why every auto parts website I went to only listed U joints for the rear driveshaft, and none for the front :shaking:
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I've seen this happen before. When the third gen cummins trucks came out they said he same thing about their front driveshafts. Wanted over a grand for a replacement for their "non-serviceable" driveshaft. Took the whole thing to Carolina Powertrain and they cross referenced the joints, replaced all three and rebuilt the cv for 250 bucks.
 
Pless said:
That is definitely at the top of the list as of now. My only concern is it being too much lift.
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This was mine with trimmed fenders, SOA with chevy axles, and stock hummer wheels & 35s.

full
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
If you measure the u-joint, is it an odd size? They had to put the ujoint in the yoke somehow, to begin with. If there isnt one that will fit, I guess there's nothing else you can do.
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At this point I'm too frustrated to mess with figuring that out. Luckily I found a replacement online for under $200 shipped. Going that route and not looking back.

NCJeeplover said:
I've seen this happen before. When the third gen cummins trucks came out they said he same thing about their front driveshafts. Wanted over a grand for a replacement for their "non-serviceable" driveshaft. Took the whole thing to Carolina Powertrain and they cross referenced the joints, replaced all three and rebuilt the cv for 250 bucks.
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It blows my mind that this is how they design things. But I guess if enough people spend a grand to replace the driveshaft, it's worth it to the manufacturer? Who knows.
 
ShimShim said:
I couldn't see any clips either internal or external. The rear had external clips that were pretty easy. I applied copious amounts of heat but still nothing. Truck is going to the dealership today to get the broken header bolts replaced. I'm hoping they won't charge an arm and a leg just to remove the U joint. They quoted $515 per axle for the whole job of U joint replacement. If they want something ridiculous for it, I'll find a shop that can do it more reasonably. I've exceeded my abilities and patience at this point.
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It usually requires torch level kinda heat. I've tried with a handheld propane bottle style and it wouldn't get hot enough. I hate modern manufacturing's idea of "just replace the whole thing" as a service method!

awheelterd said:
@Croatan_Kid
Love the random bathtub in the back yard. You're obviously not married 😂
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Nope! That's why I have 4 trucks. That's the old cast iron bathtub insert out of my grandma's house next door. The eventual plan is to frame it up and make a back porch "hot tub" for a friend of mine.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
This was mine with trimmed fenders, SOA with chevy axles, and stock hummer wheels & 35s.

full
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I've said it before and I'll say it again...H2 wheels look good on EVERYTHING, except an H2. That's not the wheel's fault though. H2s are just hideous.
 
ShimShim said:
Update for anyone with a Ram. According to the dealership, this is a non-serviceable driveshaft. Even on their parts schematic, you can buy the bolts that hold the shaft to the pinion, and you can buy the whole shaft, but you can't buy the U joint. It's made to not replace the U joint but the whole driveshaft. Service foreman seemed surprised by this as well. Guess that explains why every auto parts website I went to only listed U joints for the rear driveshaft, and none for the front :shaking:
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Wife's WK 2wd had a non-serviceable driveshaft. Had Dave at Oliver's Driveshafts make a new one and swapped it in. Thanks Chrysler.
 
Ordered a new fuel pump assembly, gas tank, air filter, inline fuel filter, fan clutch, shocks, belts, hoses, valve cover gasket, coil, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, thermostat, thermostat gasket, and I have a water pump for it sitting in the shop.

I was also looking around for tires and was going to get some Mastercraft Avenger GTs or even some Milestar Streetsteels. Both are the classic hot rod kinda tire with raised white letters. However, I found some Cooper Cobra Radial G/Ts for 85 bucks a tire! Yes, cheaper than the other two "off brand" tires. The Mastercrafts are essentially the same tire with the same specs and made by Cooper anyway. I was still surprised to find them cheaper. 85 bucks a tire, 50 shipping, and tax. Still worked out cheaper than any other 225/70R14 tire with white letters.

Naturally, I figured I'd go ahead and pull the trigger before the price changed.

So I'm off to rob these wheels off the other S10, dismount the tires, and clean the wheels up in prep for some new ones! Also going to do some various things to my rig before all the parts show up next week.

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All said and done, I'm at $928.09 with parts, shipping, and taxes right now. Trying to keep it low budget. I couldn't really avoid a new set of tires though, so I splurged a littttle and got some that are a hair wider and will look better. 225/70r14 vs stock 205/75r14.

Pump/tank - 181.93 CarParts.com
Tune up stuff - 320.25 RockAuto.com
Tires - 425.91 Gigatires.com
 
I had a friend replace a leaking lower intake manifold gasket on the 98 K1500 2 months ago. Got the fel pro kit, new hoses and a heater hose connector. A week ago a changed the oil and found coolant was running down the back of the engine and the reservoir was down an few inches. Looked at the engine and found coolant was running down the right head/intake from the front to the back. I was thinking the gasket was leaking, he said the manifold could be warped. I parked it and drove the s10 to work all week. Last night I looked at again ran my fingers under the boss the connector screws into and it was wet. I grabbed the connector and I turned it about 1/8" w my hand. It was screwed in by hand and not tightened! I put 3 full turns on it w a wrench and no leaks now. I called him and told him to tighten up! I'm surprised It ran for months w/o leaking.
 
Getting ready for a engine swap in the Chief. Built 360 been setting in the shop for years. Time has come.
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making sure everything is oiling.
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Chrome baby
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I guess you could say things are getting serious. :D Just look at these asphalt shredders! I should do a full build thread..I'm swapping tires and rims. That's a build to kids these days.

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225/70R14s should hold down the 92 horsepressures and 134 twisty boys of the giant powerplant in this rig. As you can see, the new 20 gallon dinosaur juice receptacle is assembled and ready to go in as well. The rest of the parts will be here tomorrow and I took the day off because of amazing weather. Should have this rig fired up and mobile this weekend!
 
I was sitting at home this morning trying to zoom in on the picture and read the sidwalls. I also did some Google searching. Now I'm curious too. We need to know what tires those are! @Pless :D
 
Spence said:
What Tires are these? Look like boggers, but ive never seen ones with sidewall tread quite like that?
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Croatan_Kid said:
I was sitting at home this morning trying to zoom in on the picture and read the sidwalls. I also did some Google searching. Now I'm curious too. We need to know what tires those are! @Pless :D
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Looks a lot like the Maxxis Roxxzilla. And in my searching of the netterwebz, I noticed @NCJeeplover mentioned them here:

NCJeeplover said:
I think this tire is as awesome option that rarely gets explored. Here's a tj with them on it. I think this would slick.


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That's what I thought. So does that mean they're UTV tires or do they make them in an LT too? I do know that the sidewalls look gnarly and I like it!
 
Spence said:
What Tires are these? Look like boggers, but ive never seen ones with sidewall tread quite like that?
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The are accelera badak extreme. Someone posted a link to them on here a while back, for the money I am impressed. I also liked the fact I could get them in a 35x10.50. As far as I know they are a DOT tire. Accelera Badak X-Treme
 
I could make out "Bada..." if I zoomed in on the picture, but that didn't give me much go go off of :rolleyes:

They look cool as hell!
 
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