What have you done to your rig today?

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After almost 5 years, finally got around to installing the new-to-me Savvy Offroad sliders on my poor old girl.

Like her, they need some buffin'.

But I finally decided to start throwing some money at it to get it cleaned up and driveable again.
 
Atla said:
20241023_174108.jpg


After almost 5 years, finally got around to installing the new-to-me Savvy Offroad sliders on my poor old girl.

Like her, they need some buffin'.

But I finally decided to start throwing some money at it to get it cleaned up and driveable again.
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For December 06-08 right? Cause if not well. That’s just a waste of time…..
 
Added leaves to the rear packs in my 4runner to correct sagging fail gears, new Barnes ubolt kits (beef), resealed oil cooler, and tune up. The new 37s showed lots of neglect I'd been ignoring.
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Trailer got all new brakes and a fabled spare tire mount.

Runner perfectly level in the rear now and has way more pep down low.. pretty sure plug wires were original with 245k miles :D
 
Drinkers seat is in next to the captains chair. Wife has sat, and approved of availability of grab handles. Harnesses are in and secured. Thanks @ncsutj !

Question! Can I mount the shoulder belts through the floor with large fender washers or is my only option to put a spreader bar across behind the seats. I’m not putting a cage in this thing to tie something in.
A.) not spending the money
B.) see A.)
So, my option would be to cut a piece of toob and weld some flat plates and sammich bolt it through the B pillar thing behind the doors.

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skyhighZJ said:
Drinkers seat is in next to the captains chair. Wife has sat, and approved of availability of grab handles. Harnesses are in and secured. Thanks @ncsutj !

Question! Can I mount the shoulder belts through the floor with large fender washers or is my only option to put a spreader bar across behind the seats. I’m not putting a cage in this thing to tie something in.
A.) not spending the money
B.) see A.)
So, my option would be to cut a piece of toob and weld some flat plates and sammich bolt it through the B pillar thing behind the doors.

View attachment 426912View attachment 426913
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Should it get confused on which end is up your spine and shoulders will thank you for the spreader bar.
Other wise I'd run a lap belt and call it a day
 
Not either of my trucks but my trailer; I've fought with this winch and battery for ages. I'd really love to replace this crappy 12K Ironton with a Warn Powerplant; but considering those winches are going for a 1/3 of what I paid for this trailer I'll make this one work for now.
First chance I get to find any Warn for cheap this one's getting sold.
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I'd probably go snag a Harbor Freight special since it's for a trailer. They're not the best, but they work and they're affordable. Part of me can't imagine making a Warn live its life on a trailer, but the rest of me wants to do exactly that.

Whatever I do, when I get a winch on my trailer, it'll definitely have a wireless controller!
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I'd probably go snag a Harbor Freight special since it's for a trailer. They're not the best, but they work and they're affordable. Part of me can't imagine making a Warn live its life on a trailer, but the rest of me wants to do exactly that.

Whatever I do, when I get a winch on my trailer, it'll definitely have a wireless controller!
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If I could find an 8K Warn for dirt cheap even if it needs a rebuild it would be a suitable replacement.
I thought about a Badlands but I got this Ironton from Northern on sale (So much for thinking I was getting a deal) but the Irontons are pretty much the same thing just different packaging.
A Warn Powerplant would be perfect for this trailer imo, or I've convinced myself of it. I'll have onboard air on my K3500 with the Airlift airbags, same with my K2500 with the Firestone airbags but a compressor/winch combo on a trailer just scratches an itch I didn't realize I had.
 
justjeepin86 said:
Why would you not strap that thing down at the axles?
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When we ran flatbeds One of the drivers taught me to always tie down to the body and compress the suspension to stop bounce. Back then it was a DOT regulation to tie to the body from what I understand.
 
ghost said:
When we ran flatbeds One of the drivers taught me to always tie down to the body and compress the suspension to stop bounce. Back then it was a DOT regulation to tie to the body from what I understand.
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This comes from the factory method of securing vehicles by frame points. Little special hook points with forged do dads clipped in the frame or unibody. Also more effective with vehicles being stock and limited in travel. Never read a regulation but the shoe fits.
After doing both anything stockish goes to the frame. Higher built units go to the axles. The latter actually travels better and rides smoother with the aid of the suspension not being bound up.
 
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