YJ Krawler

shawn said:
First gear is square cut. It's going to make noise no matter what.
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I know, but it's very obvious the gear has some chips in it. It's less of a groaning noise that it should make and more of clattering. But regardless my other trans has better gears in it so once its rebuilt I'll just be swapping them out
 
Got the shocks mounted on Friday since work got cut short, set it up to go slightly negative at full bump. (Still.need to actually order bump stops) not as much flex as I remember having but I've changed the suspension mounts a lot and figure that has something to do with it. 6-8" of travel difference is what I measured the other day but haven't been able to fully sag the front suspension out yet either. Gonna try to get it on the rti ramp.someday soon. Loving the stance on the jeep though. Besides the rough ride it's starting to feel complete.
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Heck yeah! This thing came together very nicely. :beer:
 
XJsavage said:
Heck yeah! This thing came together very nicely. :beer:
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Still a few things to tackle, like making a trans cover and some other things. Have a weird rotational rubbing sound coming from the rear. I think the transfer case yoke is just barely rubbing the tub. Or the joints in my CV have teady crapped out. Gotta keep an eye and an ear out to figure it out. But its finally getting to the drive it and fix as it comes along stage.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Still a few things to tackle, like making a trans cover and some other things. Have a weird rotational rubbing sound coming from the rear. I think the transfer case yoke is just barely rubbing the tub. Or the joints in my CV have teady crapped out. Gotta keep an eye and an ear out to figure it out. But its finally getting to the drive it and fix as it comes along stage.
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Got access to a press brake? I just dug a piece of 1/8" steel out the scrap bin at work and built mine. Took me forever to map mine out and get on it. I actually cut enough of my floorboard out to where I can remove the entire top plate of the transmission from inside, and then built a cover accordingly.
 
XJsavage said:
Got access to a press brake? I just dug a piece of 1/8" steel out the scrap bin at work and built mine. Took me forever to map mine out and get on it. I actually cut enough of my floorboard out to where I can remove the entire top plate of the transmission from inside, and then built a cover accordingly.
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I have about the same amount taken out of mine and actually just saw how yours was and saved the picture. I have a narrow brake I might be able to use. I just need to plan and map it all out and get to work.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Got the shocks mounted on Friday since work got cut short, set it up to go slightly negative at full bump. (Still.need to actually order bump stops) not as much flex as I remember having but I've changed the suspension mounts a lot and figure that has something to do with it. 6-8" of travel difference is what I measured the other day but haven't been able to fully sag the front suspension out yet either. Gonna try to get it on the rti ramp.someday soon. Loving the stance on the jeep though. Besides the rough ride it's starting to feel complete.View attachment 295400
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Jeep is looking good. I didnt see it anywhere, but did you outboard the front spring mounts or narrow the axle?
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Jeep is looking good. I didnt see it anywhere, but did you outboard the front spring mounts or narrow the axle?
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Custom outboard. Attached a 2x4 of steel to the front to stretch the wheelbase about 6 or 8 inches as well. Used some spring and shackle hangers from barnes to build my own outboard kit.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Jeep is looking good. I didnt see it anywhere, but did you outboard the front spring mounts or narrow the axle?
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By no means am I a "welder" or fabricator. But I do what I can with what I know and everything seems to be holding up pretty well. Gusseted what I could and braced the rest with 1/4" angle iron. The 2x4 in the front is 3/16" and I plan to cap the outside of the tube at some point after I coat the inside. Though the tube will go away when I 4 link. It's just a means to an end right now. Outboarded and raise the front spring mounts to lower the jeep after going soa on the sd60. The rear was way to high soa so I ran sua and lowered the rear mounting point to help raise the back end to get closer to the front. I have some longer shackles to lift it a hair more because it sags a little with fuel in it. But its close.
 

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paradisePWoffrd said:
Do the tires get into the springs when turning? It's one thing I have always wondered about the wider spring spacing.
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It gets into them slightly before full lock. 17x9 with 4.5 inch backspackng. The jeep still turns way better than I thought it would and I have no issues turning. I'd say it's better than where it was at on wagoneer axles and 35s.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Do the tires get into the springs when turning? It's one thing I have always wondered about the wider spring spacing.
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Identical setup as YJkrawlin has, I ran factory backspaced SD wheels (5"BS((?)) ) on 37s and mine barely rubbed the springs.
 
XJsavage said:
Identical setup as YJkrawlin has, I ran factory backspaced SD wheels (5"BS((?)) ) on 37s and mine barely rubbed the springs.
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I wish I could take a look at how you did some of your stuff differently. None of my clutch parts feel like they want to work together. Makes driving the jeep a pain at times. Between that and I think I need to get a new booster (massive vaccum leak when no load on engine) the drivability isn't where I'd like it to be.
 
YJKrawlin said:
I wish I could take a look at how you did some of your stuff differently. None of my clutch parts feel like they want to work together. Makes driving the jeep a pain at times. Between that and I think I need to get a new booster (massive vaccum leak when no load on engine) the drivability isn't where I'd like it to be.
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Take trip down sometime and bring a kayak.
 
XJsavage said:
Take trip down sometime and bring a kayak.
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Think you could put together a parts list/numbers for your clutch setup? Anything and everything you can think of. Clutch arm, slave bracket, bearing retainer etc. I'm rebuilding an np435 to put back in the jeep and want to go ahead and get it right the first time putting it all back together. If it doesn't go right this time I'll just be pinching pennies to put an nv4500 in.
 
XJsavage said:
Take trip down sometime and bring a kayak.
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I'd love to at some point Haha. It's always great to meet others who think way outside the box eith their builds.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Think you could put together a parts list/numbers for your clutch setup? Anything and everything you can think of. Clutch arm, slave bracket, bearing retainer etc. I'm rebuilding an np435 to put back in the jeep and want to go ahead and get it right the first time putting it all back together. If it doesn't go right this time I'll just be pinching pennies to put an nv4500 in.
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Sure can. I'll dig through some paperwork and post it shortly.
 
XJsavage said:
Sure can. I'll dig through some paperwork and post it shortly.
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Thanks. Hoping to get the rebuild under way in the next month or so. If I have to replace all the clutch stuff to get it working right. So be it. Still probably cheaper than finding an nv4500 and installing it haha
 
Flywheel:
McLeod Steel Flywheels 460535
Bellhousing and arm:
712549 : GM V8 to Ford NP435, T-18, T-19 4 speed manual transmission adapter bell housing kit. | Advance Adapters
Throw out:
Centerforce Throwout Bearings N1714
Clutch:
Centerforce Performance Clutch Discs 383735
I'm a little fuzzy on which pressure plate I used but a call down to AA will insure it's the right one. Their customer service is 5 star all day long.
Master/slave:
716331 : Jeep Iron Duke Slave Cylinder Kit | Advance Adapters
I can't find the exact part # for the master, but if I remember correctly it was specific to early YJ or late CJ.
 
XJsavage said:
Flywheel:
McLeod Steel Flywheels 460535
Bellhousing and arm:
712549 : GM V8 to Ford NP435, T-18, T-19 4 speed manual transmission adapter bell housing kit. | Advance Adapters
Throw out:
Centerforce Throwout Bearings N1714
Clutch:
Centerforce Performance Clutch Discs 383735
I'm a little fuzzy on which pressure plate I used but a call down to AA will insure it's the right one. Their customer service is 5 star all day long.
Master/slave:
716331 : Jeep Iron Duke Slave Cylinder Kit | Advance Adapters
I can't find the exact part # for the master, but if I remember correctly it was specific to early YJ or late CJ.
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In theory if I got the bellhousing kit you have and the slave cylinder everything would actuate differently. Idk definitely stuff to think about. That's definitely a pricey setup but if it works. Theres no arguing with results.
 
YJKrawlin said:
In theory if I got the bellhousing kit you have and the slave cylinder everything would actuate differently. Idk definitely stuff to think about. That's definitely a pricey setup but if it works. Theres no arguing with results.
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With that bellhousing were you able to run the Ford bearing retainer? Or did you have ti get a swap bearing retainer?
 
YJKrawlin said:
With that bellhousing were you able to run the Ford bearing retainer? Or did you have ti get a swap bearing retainer?
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The bellhousing comes pre-machined to fit the factory Ford.
 
XJsavage said:
The bellhousing comes pre-machined to fit the factory Ford.
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Woo. Added it all up and gave some room for buying the pressure plate plus shipping, etc. $1400 just to mate the trans. But if it works. That's the important part. I'm wondering if I could get by with my flywheel. But part of me says dont even tempt it just get the surefire thing
 
YJKrawlin said:
Woo. Added it all up and gave some room for buying the pressure plate plus shipping, etc. $1400 just to mate the trans. But if it works. That's the important part. I'm wondering if I could get by with my flywheel. But part of me says dont even tempt it just get the surefire thing
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You could get by with it I'm sure. I bought the McLeod from a guy on Craigslist and paid $200 for mine. Having a heavy flywheel does have one benefit though. A lot of Toyota guys will use one, and I've done it myself. The extra spinning mass makes it feel less sensitive moving across obstacles and it's less likely for the engine to stall going uphill and such.
In other words it makes driving a manual off road almost too easy. Not a bad thing though. :D
 
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Something I just thought of, the extra .400" the McLeod flywheel has over stock is actually intended to place the clutch assembly in a factory location similar to how it was in the original application. Now I think there's usually enough adjustment in the clutch arm, but I honestly don't know.
Of all the parts you have now, if you're comfortable with those, the .400 thicker flywheel may be the answer. That would also explain the original suspicions of the arm not being adjusted correctly when you think about it (if the pressure plate and disc are too far forward for the arm to accurately engage it). The .400 thicker would push it back into correct alignment.
 
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