YJ Krawler

XJsavage said:
Something I just thought of, the extra .400" the McLeod flywheel has over stock is actually intended to place the clutch assembly in a factory location similar to how it was in the original application. Now I think there's usually enough adjustment in the clutch arm, but I honestly don't know.
Of all the parts you have now, if you're comfortable with those, the .400 thicker flywheel may be the answer. That would also explain the original suspicions of the arm not being adjusted correctly when you think about it (if the pressure plate and disc are too far forward for the arm to accurately engage it). The .400 thicker would push it back into correct alignment.
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It's possible. I was thinking the same thing. I may not go with explicitly the McLeod one but advance adapters sells one with the extra .400" of material that might be worth looking at of I can piece together a kit with them for everything I might need.
 
YJKrawlin said:
It's possible. I was thinking the same thing. I may not go with explicitly the McLeod one but advance adapters sells one with the extra .400" of material that might be worth looking at of I can piece together a kit with them for everything I might need.
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Had I not found the deal I did on that McLeod I probably would have bought that same one.
 
XJsavage said:
Had I not found the deal I did on that McLeod I probably would have bought that same one.
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Just debating if that alone is enough. Because .4" on the clutch side could translate to almost 2 inches of movement on the slave cylinder side. That may be entirely what my issue is. Because I'm pretty sure I'm overpowering my slave cylinder as is trying to get more movement and the slave cylinder just doesn't have the throw to make up the difference.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Just debating if that alone is enough. Because .4" on the clutch side could translate to almost 2 inches of movement on the slave cylinder side. That may be entirely what my issue is. Because I'm pretty sure I'm overpowering my slave cylinder as is trying to get more movement and the slave cylinder just doesn't have the throw to make up the difference.
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I'd say that solves the riddle.
 
Is the setup external slave? If so, extend the pushrod to be slightly less length than the distance between arm contacting with light pressure on the fingers and the cylinder bottomed out. (Or make it adjustable, so you can tweak it to perfection) as long as master/slave bores match to an original application, you should get enough throw. I tried one time with a yota master & Chevy slave but couldn't get enough throw as the yota master was too small a bore and wouldn't move enough fluid, so I made a matching (to slave & trans) application Chevy master fit in the place of the yota master & works good.
 
a_kelley said:
Is the setup external slave? If so, extend the pushrod to be slightly less length than the distance between arm contacting with light pressure on the fingers and the cylinder bottomed out. (Or make it adjustable, so you can tweak it to perfection) as long as master/slave bores match to an original application, you should get enough throw. I tried one time with a yota master & Chevy slave but couldn't get enough throw as the yota master was too small a bore and wouldn't move enough fluid, so I made a matching (to slave & trans) application Chevy master fit in the place of the yota master & works good.
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Its external slave, I've already almost doubled the length and it seems to only be pushing deeper into the slave cylinder and no longer extended the clutch arm.
 
Messing with the clutch rod more and it feels alot better. Still a very stiff pedal and the clutch arm looks twisted but I can look into that later on. For now I'm happy that it is disengaging predictably. Still on the lookout for a dual diaphragm booster to replace my current one. I am starting to think I may have a vacuum leak and that's the only place I can imagine it being with how dry the grommet is. When i hold the brakes after the jeep has warmed up (doesn't so it cold) the rpms will drop from 600-400. Something to look at. Also looking into all the parts to move my filler neck to the outside of the tub from the fuel cell
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similar to this. Then working on covering up all the exposed holes in the floor. The project list is getting smaller at least!
 
Messing around this weekend and thinking i messed up was out offroading and powering through a buddy's field power sliding the jeep in the dort and whatnot. Drivrsahfts no longer seats and vibrates like crazy whenever theres a load on the rear end. Can coast at 60 in neutral and have no issues. The second I get into the throttle major vibrations. Thinking I killed a u joint but nothing seems loose other than the mounting bolts for the sterling pinion flange have backed out a hair and the flange isn't seating.
 

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Well I thought I had stretched the bolts and that was what was my weird vibration. Pulled the rear driveshaft and ordered new bolts. Drove around in fwd in my parking lot and have no noises. Got the new bolts. Retapped all the flange holes and mounted the driveshaft with the new bolts and have a very obvious vibration now. Cant tell of the output is bent or the driveshaft though. I know the dana 20 doesn't have the world's strongest outputs so possibly bent one of them? Idk regardless no wheeling trips until this is figured out unfortunately.
 
That sucks. Put the rear up on jackstands, Jeep in gear, and see if you can spot any obvious wobbling?
 
drkelly said:
That sucks. Put the rear up on jackstands, Jeep in gear, and see if you can spot any obvious wobbling?
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Gonna put a go pro under it tomorrow and take a look. Looks like me and my fiancee may need to expedite our home purchase though so the jeep may need to go to expedite that. Gonna keep tinkering with it to see if I cant figure out what's going on though.
 
Looks like my cv is still rubbing the floor so working on bending some metal out of the way. That seems to be what the vibration is. Watched a video of it and nothing seemed to look out of the ordinary
 
After more looking and cutting on the tub to figure out the noise and vibration I'm feeling it looks like the output shaft is bent on my transfer case. Yay. So looking at options for fixing it now. Considering doing an nv4500 since I'm considering redoing my whole clutch and bellhousing setup and the price comparison is about the same, but I know they can be a bit long with not much stretch in the rear. Also considering hardened outputs for the Dana 20, going to an np205 or possibly doing a doubler if room allows. Stuff to consider for sure and I'm so tired of messing with the drivetrain that I want this to be the last drivetrain project so I can start focusing on the suspension. Looking at houses this weekend and I've been informed I cant sell my jeep so she's staying in the family for now. Hopefully well have a house soon and soon after I can get a small shop put up to start working on the jeep in my own shop vs across the county at a friends.
 
Playing around with ideas since the jeep is on the back burner for a while until we get our housing situation figured out, but I've been told by the fiancee and all of my friends that I'm not allowed to sell the jeep so.. looking at options. Part of me is getting irritated with the wheelbase limitations of the wrangler and not wanting to put the fuel cell in the actual tub to alleviate those issues. I would love to stretch the rear more and not worry about the drivetrain length in return but cant do that without moving the fuel cell again. I've tossed the idea around of getting a longer wheelbase rig (within reason) and swapping most of my stuff into that to not lose my investment. But still just in the research and planning phase. No decision made yet but I've played with the idea of broncos/blazers or j10/wagoneers. But trying to figure out what I can work a similar package into is the complicated part. And expensive. Still looking into ideas though. Would be nice to have a plan for something bigger just in case we start a family I'm not getting something else later on. Anyways thanks for listening to me rant. Either way I go I'd like to be in something v8 (or the ls I already have) manual preferred (thinking nv4500) transfer case tbd. Seat at least 4. (That's not an option with my current tub anymore) One ton axles. Either keeping my sd axles or swapping out for something else depending on fitment. And hoping to fit 40s or around that size. What do you think? Am I just stupid?
 
YJKrawlin said:
Playing around with ideas since the jeep is on the back burner for a while until we get our housing situation figured out, but I've been told by the fiancee and all of my friends that I'm not allowed to sell the jeep so.. looking at options. Part of me is getting irritated with the wheelbase limitations of the wrangler and not wanting to put the fuel cell in the actual tub to alleviate those issues. I would love to stretch the rear more and not worry about the drivetrain length in return but cant do that without moving the fuel cell again. I've tossed the idea around of getting a longer wheelbase rig (within reason) and swapping most of my stuff into that to not lose my investment. But still just in the research and planning phase. No decision made yet but I've played with the idea of broncos/blazers or j10/wagoneers. But trying to figure out what I can work a similar package into is the complicated part. And expensive. Still looking into ideas though. Would be nice to have a plan for something bigger just in case we start a family I'm not getting something else later on. Anyways thanks for listening to me rant. Either way I go I'd like to be in something v8 (or the ls I already have) manual preferred (thinking nv4500) transfer case tbd. Seat at least 4. (That's not an option with my current tub anymore) One ton axles. Either keeping my sd axles or swapping out for something else depending on fitment. And hoping to fit 40s or around that size. What do you think? Am I just stupid?
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Maybe a 4runner, dodge Dakota with a SAS, or a JK :flipoff2:


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YJKrawlin said:
Playing around with ideas since the jeep is on the back burner for a while until we get our housing situation figured out, but I've been told by the fiancee and all of my friends that I'm not allowed to sell the jeep so.. looking at options. Part of me is getting irritated with the wheelbase limitations of the wrangler and not wanting to put the fuel cell in the actual tub to alleviate those issues. I would love to stretch the rear more and not worry about the drivetrain length in return but cant do that without moving the fuel cell again. I've tossed the idea around of getting a longer wheelbase rig (within reason) and swapping most of my stuff into that to not lose my investment. But still just in the research and planning phase. No decision made yet but I've played with the idea of broncos/blazers or j10/wagoneers. But trying to figure out what I can work a similar package into is the complicated part. And expensive. Still looking into ideas though. Would be nice to have a plan for something bigger just in case we start a family I'm not getting something else later on. Anyways thanks for listening to me rant. Either way I go I'd like to be in something v8 (or the ls I already have) manual preferred (thinking nv4500) transfer case tbd. Seat at least 4. (That's not an option with my current tub anymore) One ton axles. Either keeping my sd axles or swapping out for something else depending on fitment. And hoping to fit 40s or around that size. What do you think? Am I just stupid?
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Stretch the YJ tub and frame to the desired length. There are a ton of builds on pirate4x4 to look at for ideas. Many people are stretching YJ's and TJ's to LJ length (15" longer).
 
drkelly said:
Stretch the YJ tub and frame to the desired length. There are a ton of builds on pirate4x4 to look at for ideas. Many people are stretching YJ's and TJ's to LJ length (15" longer).
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That's been an option I've been considering as well. Sen some really cool build done that way. Its definitely the more fab heavy side though.
 
Either way, fab heavy stretch or swapping all your stuff over to something else is going to be a lot of time and effort, nickel and dime, and time not wheeling. Have you thought about either building or finding a used (or shelling out $$$ for new) genright style tank that will allow for another few inches of wheelbase? Where are you at now and have you wheeled much at the current wheelbase/tire combo? I figured if you get to around 100" you'll be right in between wrangler and LJ wheelbase, getting a little of the benefit of both.
 
paulevans76 said:
Either way, fab heavy stretch or swapping all your stuff over to something else is going to be a lot of time and effort, nickel and dime, and time not wheeling. Have you thought about either building or finding a used (or shelling out $$$ for new) genright style tank that will allow for another few inches of wheelbase? Where are you at now and have you wheeled much at the current wheelbase/tire combo? I figured if you get to around 100" you'll be right in between wrangler and LJ wheelbase, getting a little of the benefit of both.
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I'm right around 103-104 right now. With a heavy front stretch. I've wheeled it at a local place but messing around there is what bent my output shaft. Suspension isn't quite where I want it to be. It binds alot.ive looked at the gen right tanks as an option as well. Either way I'm figuring another year or so until I am at a comfortable place to drop another few thousand into it to get the drivetrain right again. The home purchase has put us in a point where I need to stop spending money on the jeep for now.
 
In the meantime looking at options. Even with the genright tank and stretch I'm another couple thousand into it. Just seeing where my money makes the most sense being invested. Another rig and transferring parts would be more work and some money but not as much as a complete redesign and feeling like I've lost out on so much. Idk just tossing ideas out there seeing what others think and taking in as much advice as I can in the meantime. If I'm looking at a different trans/case option why not look into other rigs I figure? As much as I love driving a manual possibly getting something I can have an auto behind the ls and my fiance can drive it when she needs to as well since she isn't interested in learning manual. Still just tossing around idea . I appreciate everyone's input!
 
YJKrawlin said:
That's been an option I've been considering as well. Sen some really cool build done that way. Its definitely the more fab heavy side though.
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Honestly the "Unlimited stretch" wasn't bad at all on my build. Its everything else I did. If I were to have just stretched and kept leafs (with stock tank and stock front WB will put you at 108") I would have been done in less than two months just putting in weekend hours. Really all there is to do is cut/extend frame, body, fuel lines, brake lines, electrical, and back half of cage. Then just cut off and move your rear leaf spring hangers. Then depending on how where you cut cover or patch in wheel wells. Pic for reference at 108"
.
 
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