Lorenzo816
CTB
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2008
- Location
- Cabarrus County, NC
Chris asked me to start a build thread so here goes
Love it or hate the Isuzu, my truck is overdue for a solid front axle. I have had this truck since 99 but only been wheelin it since 06. Time has come for a change.
I've wheeled with a bunch of you guys here and learned a lot. Honestly talking to everyone about options and seeing in person what and how stuff works and what came on what.... helped me put this together.
Thank you.
Running an IFS on 34's with a rear locker has surprised the shit out of some people.
It works really well but I need more height and more articulation to go wheel places I want to go.
I'm sticking with the Rodeo because it has a decent wheel base, came with a Dana 44 rear end, its paid for, its beat up but not badly, I've had it since 50k miles, it has 4 wheel disc brakes, has a parking brake at your elbow (not a t-handle in the dash), it fits four adults comfortably and room for gear plus what not.... lots of reasons, most of the same reasons you'll hear from someone building up a 4runner.
Here is how my rig sits now (well used to sit):
3" suspension with torsion bar crank
OME Dakar HD leaf springs in the rear
1" body lift
custom drop-diff front a little to help the CV angles a bit
4.56 gears
Aussie locker in the rear
34" LTBs on 15" rims
Trail Gear rock sliders
lifted gas tank
Aisin manual hubs
Heavy duty tie rods
removed the sway bar.....
I could go on but most of the front end stuff is gone now.
Here is a pic from when we lived at the old red house across from the Outpost:
looks like that was before my OME springs too, its sagging in the rear. Plus my bumper looks like a dog chewed it compared to this pic.
So over the past few years or so, I have collected a lot parts to get this 'build' to a point where I could pull into Chris' shop and get serious. (marsfab)
Solid front axle options are limited for the Isuzu, since they are PSD and the Yota gears don't line up perfectly with the Dana44 gear options. Plus we have a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern so take that into account for axles, wheels and more. It just gets expensive anyway you look at it. I'd call it the "moneypit" but Kenneth already took that build title.
I honestly think I know every solid axle Isuzu in the country... well just about thanks to the PlanetIsuzu board. What most guys do is 44 front and keep the rear 44 or 60's F+R or 60's with a 14' rear or 44 front with 9" rear or the Isuzu 12 bolt rear. The kicker is the front driveline is really short and even shorter on a manual trans. Short of putting in a 2wd tailhousing, cutting the t-case and adding a 300 or 205 $$$ all money options. A high angle driveshaft is all you can do before breaking the bank. Saving grace is the driveshafts use 1310 joints for this generation.
Also depending on your steering set up you may need to relocate the box or replace it. All $$$ pit here.
Plus no matter what I do, there is nothing in the back of any magazine I can just call up and order.
This is all custom. And Chris is the man to do it.
I opted for a 44 front but not full width and kept my rear axle.
Got it off a late 70's J truck. (can't remember but it came from someone on here a few years ago - thanks!)
Its about 64" wms and 6 on 5.5. Studs are different but whatever.
The rear 44 on the Isuzu for my year is around 60-61ish wms so it works about right.
I actually ended up buying another 44 axle just to rob the gears, knuckles and high steer off of it.
(thanks mike)
Got an OX from my friend Matt (RHSCTJ)
Thanks to Josh and his Dad in K-town at Universal Automotive for gearing the front and putting in the locker. (muddin38yota)
I decided on Goodyears for rubber and 17" rims. I'll get some steel beadlocks eventually.
The plan is to 3 link the front, SOA the rear, add 12" coilovers up front and run 37" tires.
I haven't seen but one other coilover 3 link rodeo and it no longer exists. There is a 4-link trooper on the west coast but looks like he had an unlimited budget. There are a few leaf sprung conversions and coil set-up converted rodeos/passports so this is unchartered territory.
Hell it was Chris' idea to run the 37" tires and "do something really different, everyone has 36's and coils or a leaf sprung solid axle conversion."
So fast forward to now. Everything has been cut off and all the good stuff parted and sold to fellow Isuzu heads.
no turning back now.
Got everything ground and cut off the frame
Got the front axle put together to mockup the suspension links and brackets.
I need to replace some BJs, a seal and a bearing. Not bad but might as well replace it all anyhow.
(I added some spacers later on. These nissan rims have a ton of BS)
To solve the issue of the y-pipe collection plumbing of the exhaust and not interfering with the front driveshaft on the passenger side, Chris put this together:
Now I can weld but definitely call me a beginner.
Chris, as you know is bad ass at this shit. Some call it welding porn
To clear the upper link, a creative cross member was fabbed up to hold the drivetrain.
Chris has been working on getting the final touches of the 3-link together and the steering is complete.
Didn't even have to move or change out the box.
you may have seen this one in the bad ass weld thread:
Dropped by today and looks like 4" up and 8" down is where it might sit up front
There is a slight bend in the track bar and a small one needed in the drag link but everything is dialed up front except the coil mounts on the frame.
Here is where it may sit when we're all said and done.
So yeah the cats out of the bag now.
Love it or hate the Isuzu, my truck is overdue for a solid front axle. I have had this truck since 99 but only been wheelin it since 06. Time has come for a change.
I've wheeled with a bunch of you guys here and learned a lot. Honestly talking to everyone about options and seeing in person what and how stuff works and what came on what.... helped me put this together.
Thank you.
Running an IFS on 34's with a rear locker has surprised the shit out of some people.
It works really well but I need more height and more articulation to go wheel places I want to go.
I'm sticking with the Rodeo because it has a decent wheel base, came with a Dana 44 rear end, its paid for, its beat up but not badly, I've had it since 50k miles, it has 4 wheel disc brakes, has a parking brake at your elbow (not a t-handle in the dash), it fits four adults comfortably and room for gear plus what not.... lots of reasons, most of the same reasons you'll hear from someone building up a 4runner.
Here is how my rig sits now (well used to sit):
3" suspension with torsion bar crank
OME Dakar HD leaf springs in the rear
1" body lift
custom drop-diff front a little to help the CV angles a bit
4.56 gears
Aussie locker in the rear
34" LTBs on 15" rims
Trail Gear rock sliders
lifted gas tank
Aisin manual hubs
Heavy duty tie rods
removed the sway bar.....
I could go on but most of the front end stuff is gone now.
Here is a pic from when we lived at the old red house across from the Outpost:
looks like that was before my OME springs too, its sagging in the rear. Plus my bumper looks like a dog chewed it compared to this pic.
So over the past few years or so, I have collected a lot parts to get this 'build' to a point where I could pull into Chris' shop and get serious. (marsfab)
Solid front axle options are limited for the Isuzu, since they are PSD and the Yota gears don't line up perfectly with the Dana44 gear options. Plus we have a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern so take that into account for axles, wheels and more. It just gets expensive anyway you look at it. I'd call it the "moneypit" but Kenneth already took that build title.
I honestly think I know every solid axle Isuzu in the country... well just about thanks to the PlanetIsuzu board. What most guys do is 44 front and keep the rear 44 or 60's F+R or 60's with a 14' rear or 44 front with 9" rear or the Isuzu 12 bolt rear. The kicker is the front driveline is really short and even shorter on a manual trans. Short of putting in a 2wd tailhousing, cutting the t-case and adding a 300 or 205 $$$ all money options. A high angle driveshaft is all you can do before breaking the bank. Saving grace is the driveshafts use 1310 joints for this generation.
Also depending on your steering set up you may need to relocate the box or replace it. All $$$ pit here.
Plus no matter what I do, there is nothing in the back of any magazine I can just call up and order.
This is all custom. And Chris is the man to do it.
I opted for a 44 front but not full width and kept my rear axle.
Got it off a late 70's J truck. (can't remember but it came from someone on here a few years ago - thanks!)
Its about 64" wms and 6 on 5.5. Studs are different but whatever.
The rear 44 on the Isuzu for my year is around 60-61ish wms so it works about right.
I actually ended up buying another 44 axle just to rob the gears, knuckles and high steer off of it.
(thanks mike)
Got an OX from my friend Matt (RHSCTJ)
Thanks to Josh and his Dad in K-town at Universal Automotive for gearing the front and putting in the locker. (muddin38yota)
I decided on Goodyears for rubber and 17" rims. I'll get some steel beadlocks eventually.
The plan is to 3 link the front, SOA the rear, add 12" coilovers up front and run 37" tires.
I haven't seen but one other coilover 3 link rodeo and it no longer exists. There is a 4-link trooper on the west coast but looks like he had an unlimited budget. There are a few leaf sprung conversions and coil set-up converted rodeos/passports so this is unchartered territory.
Hell it was Chris' idea to run the 37" tires and "do something really different, everyone has 36's and coils or a leaf sprung solid axle conversion."
So fast forward to now. Everything has been cut off and all the good stuff parted and sold to fellow Isuzu heads.
no turning back now.
Got everything ground and cut off the frame
Got the front axle put together to mockup the suspension links and brackets.
I need to replace some BJs, a seal and a bearing. Not bad but might as well replace it all anyhow.
(I added some spacers later on. These nissan rims have a ton of BS)
To solve the issue of the y-pipe collection plumbing of the exhaust and not interfering with the front driveshaft on the passenger side, Chris put this together:
Now I can weld but definitely call me a beginner.
Chris, as you know is bad ass at this shit. Some call it welding porn
To clear the upper link, a creative cross member was fabbed up to hold the drivetrain.
Chris has been working on getting the final touches of the 3-link together and the steering is complete.
Didn't even have to move or change out the box.
you may have seen this one in the bad ass weld thread:
Dropped by today and looks like 4" up and 8" down is where it might sit up front
There is a slight bend in the track bar and a small one needed in the drag link but everything is dialed up front except the coil mounts on the frame.
Here is where it may sit when we're all said and done.
So yeah the cats out of the bag now.
!
