Frankenstein Street Queen (a.k.a. SpeedBump)

Trying to figure out where to mount this. I may need to build something. Hmmm.

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I think I want to build a flat spot like this from the firewall back. It would give me a great place to mount it and far enough away from shifter boots and what not.

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And it could go all the way to the rear tub area like this.

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Think is this flux core on the lowest setting lowest speed still melts this body panel sheet like butter. So dunno how I would build this or even attach to the floor. Hmm.

Want to try to get a lot done this weekend. Hopefully discover something by then.

I guess it doesn't have to go there either. Just made the most sense because of running heater hoses. But then again, the hoses will be on the P side and the heater ports are on the D side.
Flip it upside down where it's hanging from under the dash?

You could rivet/screw your box/tunnel down to the floor. With some rtv/seam sealer down first it'll seal up to the floor fine.

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Flip it upside down where it's hanging from under the dash?

You could rivet/screw your box/tunnel down to the floor. With some rtv/seam sealer down first it'll seal up to the floor fine.

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Upside down on the firewall? That's an idea! And I could delay the tunnel box fab for a later date when it's more applicable for the auto shifter
 
Love that. Wonder how they have it mounted? Might interfere with my radio in the middle
If needed, you can take the heater apart, flip the heater core itself to get the mountain tabs and plumbing on whichever side works best for you. (Pop those clips and 4 screws iirc.)

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If needed, you can take the heater apart, flip the heater core itself to get the mountain tabs and plumbing on whichever side works best for you. (Pop those clips and 4 screws iirc.)

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Thanks!!!
 
Upside down on the firewall? That's an idea! And I could delay the tunnel box fab for a later date when it's more applicable for the auto shifter
I would make a plate that bolted to bottom of dash, back to firewall, under the radio.

Flip the heater upside down, from that pic, and bolt it to the plate. Could weld nuts or use riv-nuts in the plate.

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I would make a plate that bolted to bottom of dash, back to firewall, under the radio.

Flip the heater upside down, from that pic, and bolt it to the plate. Could weld nuts or use riv-nuts in the plate.

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thats literally what i have been thinking. right on dude.

i got the spare sheet too.
 
I'm hesitant to waste time special ordering boat carpets. So playing around with what Lowes has for outdoor carpeting. The grey seems to me the best choice to be combined with a 1/8 or 3/16 butyl horse mat.

I don't think I have the skills to mold stuff for "molded mat" like appearance on the floor. So this may be reduced to the rear area only and the floor pans in the front.

The idea is to provide some insulation against hot floors (I love driving barefoot) and some comfort in the rear on the wheel wells to reduce "hot to the touch" when topless and also to provide grip for the dog when he is riding co-pilot(rear).

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Anyone know where to buy a steam port coupler for the upper radiator? having the darndest time finding something
 
Finally!!!!

Got these doors aligned and working. Just need to bolt up the hardtop now. This tub has always had wonky fitment issues with doors. It was a good half day of man hours getting this worked out. Was able to keep the upper half of the weather stripping. I plan on using some strip to help seal up the lower half.

Drilled the stock striker mounts here. This is afar as you can go to allow the TJ stock backing plate to work for the TJ strikers.

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Then you need to trim the body a bit here and then notch for the striker some.

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Using self rappers I can now mount the assembly where it needs to go

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Here i stopped trimming the weather stripping to allow this piece to seal against the hardtop notch

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Here I stopped just short of the corner gap to allow some semblance of seal at that large gap. Also had to pull the tube insert out of their upper corner section to allow the stripping to collapse enough.

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Also had to notch the windshield cowl seal here, where the square corner would normally protrude.

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Doors fit and latch good!

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Officially drove it in 3wd drive today... on pavement...

What kind of NC4x4 Reward does that net me?
 
How difficult and expensive would it be to link the axles (excluding the cost of air shocks)?
 
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How difficult and expensive would it be to link the axles (excluding the cost of air shocks)?
Street Queen (street driven) and air shocks don't belong together.
If you want link suspension on a street driven rig, you need to look at coils or coilovers. Definitely not air shocks.
 
Street Queen (street driven) and air shocks don't belong together.
If you want link suspension on a street driven rig, you need to look at coils or coilovers. Definitely not air shocks.

Dont be a party pooper

Several have said should change the thread name.... Maybe i should start a poll lmao

That makes sense though. Thanks
 
Dont be a party pooper

Several have said should change the thread name.... Maybe i should start a poll lmao

That makes sense though. Thanks
If u don't want to spend the $$ on coilovers, you could do TJ/JK coils.

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I guess I've never owned a YJ with doors because I never remember being this crammed. Or... I've hung around @Loganwayne too much and gained some sympathy weight. Lol

Not diggin it, but it's just for the winter.

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You can go soft doors, but you loose that annoying insulation and roll up windows

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Sitting there I was like "people were satisfied with this in a brand new vehicle????" The door is so close to the steering wheel it could be dangerous
 
I'm still trying to remember where I got the steam vent coupler like I used on mine. I still think it was off eBay.
 
I'm still trying to remember where I got the steam vent coupler like I used on mine. I still think it was off eBay.

I️ still haven’t found anything. Just gunna have to order the 23$ Novak one. Just sucks on their “handling” and shipping fees
 
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