01 Mounty on Tons!

Again, not being negative, just pointing something out.
Better link angles are just as (if not more) important for a trail rig than a street rig.
Since you already mentioned a concern with wrap and suspension performance, this is the time to reconsider your design.
Look at buggies, monster trucks and even modded full frame Jeeps, they all utilize a subframe even though it costs them ground clearance.
True good point! It's not set in stone and the doubler is probably going to show me where a "subframe " has to be when making mounts/beefy box to hold both cases sturdy
 
@Jody Treadway are there any headers/manifolds that will fit this 302 in this frame you know of? Bolts broke off in manifold on pass side, probably will on other too so if I gotta buy new ones, any recommendations you have. Thanks
 
About your only option is BBK for the GT40P heads. It's not worth it. Save money on bolt ons, keep the engine stock for reliability. With the crawl ratio you'll have, there's no need at all for more power.
A pushrod 5.0 will last forever by design.
 
About your only option is BBK for the GT40P heads. It's not worth it. Save money on bolt ons, keep the engine stock for reliability. With the crawl ratio you'll have, there's no need at all for more power.
A pushrod 5.0 will last forever by design.
Good to know, I saw they're expensive. Hopefully I can fix these when I get to that. Thanks
 
Been kickin ass late nights getting work done on this. I redid the flowers and upper, thanks @Jody Treadway for advise on that, I'm much happier with it. Lowers are 42.5", uppers in front are 47.3".
Brought rear lower links down to match height of front and will box in the "subframe" once I'm done with the doubler.
Doubler is mounted too, woohoo,, super surprised it fit without cutting or anything on the floor. That was pain in the ass...that 4401 case ain't no joke but 2 mounts are on rear case, 4 more to go for 6 total.
Fixed exhaust manifolds!
Front shock towers done! Nothing too fancy, same design as rear.
Got the XJ gas tank mocked up too in the back.
20210506_111617.jpg
20210513_200750.jpg
20210513_200431.jpg
20210513_200414.jpg
20210513_110928.jpg
20210513_200336.jpg
 
1st question: what's the smallest exhaust tubing I can get away with on this 302? Run a Y pipe into 1? Run duals to the rear any benefit? trying to plan the exhaust system, the way I'm going I'll be on to that soon.
2nd question: I bought a Toyota IFS steering box to use since it mounts on outside of frame rail. Was going to use it and drill/tap for hydro assist.
?? Am I wasting my time going through all that work to get a steering box/shafts ran and all vs just buying Orbital and going full hydro. It will see some road driving but still will be a mostly dedicated trail rig!! (I know I've heard steering gets wonky above like 45mph with full hydro so that's why originally I steered away from that idea).
Thanks
 
1- A 2.25" diameter y-pipe to a 2.5" muffler and tailpipe is all you need.
2- I ran a Toy IFS box and assist on mine before going full hydro. If it is well planned, hydro assist will work. If it's cobbled together with crap from TSC and an old pump and box, well YMMV.
Fill hydro will give best performance. See previous comment about cobbled junk and such.
 
hydro will give best performance.
Think I might just go full hydro once and be done. What's the ratio on the Charlene orbital that's recommended?
 
Been kickin ass late nights getting work done on this. I redid the flowers and upper, thanks @Jody Treadway for advise on that, I'm much happier with it. Lowers are 42.5", uppers in front are 47.3".
Brought rear lower links down to match height of front and will box in the "subframe" once I'm done with the doubler.
Doubler is mounted too, woohoo,, super surprised it fit without cutting or anything on the floor. That was pain in the ass...that 4401 case ain't no joke but 2 mounts are on rear case, 4 more to go for 6 total.
Fixed exhaust manifolds!
Front shock towers done! Nothing too fancy, same design as rear.
Got the XJ gas tank mocked up too in the back.
View attachment 346382View attachment 346383View attachment 346384View attachment 346385View attachment 346386View attachment 346387
Are the uppers and lowers parallel?
 
Buy a matched kit. It will have a pump, orbital, hoses, hydraulic cylinder, etc all in one box that are all matched for efficiency.
It's worth every penny
Otherwise, you'll likely deal with overheating, poor performance and general lack of proper steering.
Oh ok lol, any recommendations on one that's Not 1000+ or is that what the "good" kits are. My last rig I was pretty happy with the Charlene orbital and 2x8 surplus ram for what that's worth
 
But uppers are at exact same mounting point on f
 
Frame with lowers , they measure longer cause they're triangular
 
To echo what @Jody Treadway was talking about...I ran full hydro on the road on my last Toyota. Tons and 42’s. It was a cobbled setup that took forever to get dialed in right. Ram throw and diameter, line sizes, pump flow, orbital flow all play a part. By the time I was done getting it right I was pennies away from a PSC kit.
 
Mine has been 100% trouble free for 5 years
Well you know me, 1500 just for a steering kit is out of my league, even if I have the money knowing I've had good performing setups on 3 rigs for half that and with price of metal, my roll cage gonna cost a fortune lol. I thought the Charlene orbital's are considered to be good units or is there a better affordable option
 
And I have a new 2x10 ram never used I was planning on using haha but it could continue to look pretty on the shelf haha
 
Stupid texting put haha twice wth
 
I thought the Charlene orbital's are considered to be good units or is there a better affordable option

And I have a new 2x10 ram never used I was planning on using

See: cobbled

Not a knock on the Charlene orbital nor your ram.
Both can be quality pieces, but if they dont fit well together the system wont work right.

I used this analogy earlier today.
A 5.9 Cummins is a deadset reliable engine.
A Powerglide is a helluva a reliable transmission
a ford 9" rear is the gold standard of rear ends.

Put a 5.9 cummins and a power glide trans in an air cooled volkswagen beetle with a ford 9" rear and 63" military tires and every component sucks.

Its all about the specs and matching them, not picking a brand name and "2x10 ram"
 
1st question: what's the smallest exhaust tubing I can get away with on this 302? Run a Y pipe into 1? Run duals to the rear any benefit? trying to plan the exhaust system, the way I'm going I'll be on to that soon.
2nd question: I bought a Toyota IFS steering box to use since it mounts on outside of frame rail. Was going to use it and drill/tap for hydro assist.
?? Am I wasting my time going through all that work to get a steering box/shafts ran and all vs just buying Orbital and going full hydro. It will see some road driving but still will be a mostly dedicated trail rig!! (I know I've heard steering gets wonky above like 45mph with full hydro so that's why originally I steered away from that idea).
Thanks
2" into a 2.5" Y pipe should be plenty fine. I'd go full hydro, know plenty of guys to drive on the road with it. Not saying I'd daily it or hit the interstate but it'll be fine for a Saturday here or there or cruising back roads. Plus it'll make it way easier to package a track bar in the front with full hydro.
 
Back
Top