"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Mac5005 said:
Lower links equal in length to tire size.
Click to expand...
Looks like they will be around 40 which is perfect cause that's my eventual tire desired size
 
Just keep in mind just because the lower can be 40” doesn’t mean you can make it 40” you need to know where you upper mount is going to be on the frame to. You don’t want a 40” lower and a 20” upper.

The way my chassis is set up I only have a 38” lower and a 30” something upper and I plan to go to 43 “ tires. Plan it out tack weld your brackets make pvc links and STOP look at everything try to cycle the suspension. When you think you have it right STOP. Come back the next day with a clear head cycle everything a couple more times. Make sure your not going to hit your driveshaft


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
marty79 said:
What's this?
As for the rest, thank you and yeah save the rest of info for now lol. I'm overwhelmed with what had been said.
Remember y'all, I have real bad reading/comprehension add so I can only take in little bits of focus at a time. So for now I just want to focus on the front and go from there.
Links will be here 3-5days so next week we'll deal with some numbers and such.

I do want to thank everyone for your help in this build! Please be patient and nor offended if things don't pan out the "right" given way, I will try to apply the given advise in this awesome build.
Click to expand...


You do not want the rear AS “Antisquat” to increase a lot when the suspension droops.


As far as understanding. Start with what I posted, focus on one sentence at a time, Get a concept of what it is, then move down to the next. It’s a Steep learning curve. Google what you don’t know. Also search here for previous link suspension threads and read those.
 
Jody Treadway said:
What wheelbase are you desiring and why?
Click to expand...
I want 115" range, I'm 104 now or was lol.
I want it more stable and I need more length for twin cases 2best reasons
 
marty79 said:
I want 115" range, I'm 104 now or was lol.
I want it more stable and I need more length for twin cases 2best reasons
Click to expand...
My buggy is 105" wheelbase, feels plenty stable and I have dual cases in it. Might work out well for you to leave the leafs in the rear and just longarm the front and go with the wheelbase you have.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
My buggy is 105" wheelbase, feels plenty stable and I have dual cases in it. Might work out well for you to leave the leafs in the rear and just longarm the front and go with the wheelbase you have.
Click to expand...
Well I'm still open to the idea so once front is done, think I'll make the twin cases next and then take some measurements and see where I'm at.
I kinda wanted to do rear link to see if I'm able to. That's how I learn visually to understand how something works and expand my skill. I'm gonna plate the rear rails this weekend anyways in case I do go links route
 
I wouldn't stretch it much....unless you're planning on huge tires. Stock XJ wheel base does pretty good. I did a rear spring flip on mine and I think that was as easy 4" stretch.
 
marty79 said:
Well I'm still open to the idea so once front is done, think I'll make the twin cases next and then take some measurements and see where I'm at.
I kinda wanted to do rear link to see if I'm able to. That's how I learn visually to understand how something works and expand my skill. I'm gonna plate the rear rails this weekend anyways in case I do go links route
Click to expand...

I’m not trying to discourage you from linking, but to link it and have it work well includes a steep learning curve.

Poorly designed will result in poor performance that will typically happen on the worst/hardest near vertical climbs, that are usually bad places to break and extract a broken rig from.

Not much worse than a link suspension that hops and you can’t wheel hard with.

Wheel hop causes high shock loads and broken parts.

Wheel hop comes from poor geometry.

If you are linking, spend the time now to get the numbers as good as you can.

It’s free to run the calculator and optimize the geometry before you build anything.

Get it right and it will be completely worthwhile.

If that sounds like too much then go with leafs and a traction bar. They are proven to work in the back of xj’s.
 
For as long and many xj
1stgenxxx said:
I wouldn't stretch it much....unless you're planning on huge tires. Stock XJ wheel base does pretty good. I did a rear spring flip on mine and I think that was as easy 4" stretch.
Click to expand...
Yeah I just realized my front leafs will net me 6" stretch flipped around in the rear so that would put me at 111..that doesn't sound too bad at all does it?
Mac5005 said:
Poorly designed will result in poor performance that will typically happen on the worst/hardest near vertical climbs, that are usually bad places to break and extract a broken rig from.
Click to expand...
This is why I never done it. Despite my certain ghetto fabulous things I've done/do there are things like this I haven't risked cause I know a failure would be really bad like you said, on the worst harder trails.
 
Mac5005 said:
but to link it and have it work well includes a steep learning curve.
Click to expand...
Lol that's definitely not my strength. I'm a "do it" guy not a design and fabricate type
 
marty79 said:
Lol that's definitely not my strength. I'm a "do it" guy not a design and fabricate type
Click to expand...

Perfect time to expand your skill set.

Download the calculator, put in some dimensions and play with it. Use my long post with what to shoot for as a guide.

Even if you stick with leafs for now, you will at least have the tools to keep teaching yourself until you feel comfortable with doing it.

Just don’t get caught with making it perfect, as it will never happen.
 
Well got the front axle installed where I want it. Moved upper coil buckets out an inch away from body to keep springs from rubbing and got pinion in good spot to start until I get tcase mounted.
Parts were shipped today so this week will have links made for front.
IMG_20180224_214529771.jpg
IMG_20180224_214441759.jpg
 
 
While you are reading about suspensions, look up Ironman4x4 Fab. They have kits for XJs to 4 link front & rear. I know your not going to spend that money, but it will give you an idea on how to build a setup that works.
 
So quick question guys. Since I now have a big boy welder (220amp) 230v can I weld a gusset to the cast housing in the pumpkin and the CAD housing which appears to be cast also
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
While you are reading about suspensions, look up Ironman4x4 Fab. They have kits for XJs to 4 link front & rear. I know your not going to spend that money, but it will give you an idea on how to build a setup that works.
Click to expand...
I was gonna go with something like this in front
jeep-long-arm-upgrade.jpg
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
That's a good compromise with keeping a steering box. Also, you really only need the short arm on the differential side, for off road only.
Click to expand...
That's my planned 3link
 
Back
Top