"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

marty79 said:
So quick question guys. Since I now have a big boy welder (220amp) 230v can I weld a gusset to the cast housing in the pumpkin and the CAD housing which appears to be cast also
Click to expand...
Anyone on this
 
Jody Treadway said:
Preheat, weld and let it cool slowly or it will crack.
On CAD axles, many times it is actually easier go to C to C with a low profile truss over the pumpkin and them tie to cover into the truss.
Click to expand...
So put the torch on it for while, weld, keep torch on it some more than it's good.
(Too late to go C's to C's)
 
Thank you everyone
 
Rosebud helps welding cast...I'd say it's mandatory..but maybe it's just my low skill level.
 
115 seems a big long. I don't thing you'd gain much stability by going longer....you'd just get high centered easier. What t case setup are you going to go with?

I think my wheel base is 110 and it's plenty
 
I would do a true 3 link.
 
1stgenxxx said:
115 seems a big long. I don't thing you'd gain much stability by going longer....you'd just get high centered easier. What t case setup are you going to go with?

I think my wheel base is 110 and it's plenty
Click to expand...
231 and 242 for now, I have em both so why not. I will eventually get some gear driven stuff later on but I will make those work.
And don't ask me how I'm doing it lol, nobody would approve haha
 
Got one side plated
IMG_20180225_121909107_LL.jpg
 
Mother of God he’s got speed holes everyone. All joking aside your welding looks soo much better now.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
marty79 said:
231 and 242 for now, I have em both so why not. I will eventually get some gear driven stuff later on but I will make those work.
And don't ask me how I'm doing it lol, nobody would approve haha
Click to expand...

Are you just planning on using the planetary gears from the 231 in a crawl box or? If I missed something I apologize.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Are you just planning on using the planetary gears from the 231 in a crawl box or? If I missed something I apologize.
Click to expand...
Not quite yet, I'm mounting both back to back till I buy the proper kit later for gear cases
 
marty79 said:
Not quite yet, I'm mounting both back to back till I buy the proper kit later for gear cases
Click to expand...

Look into using just the front half of the case and how they weld an aluminum plate to seal it up and a fabricated adapter to feed the input. Most those use a spud shaft. Would help a lot on length over the setup you’re planning on using.
 
236515e554ea10540910629a9cc93351.jpg


If that bottom has a gap in it like it looks like it does. You’ve made a weak place in your playing right where xj tend to bend and crack anyways. You need to add a piece that fallows the contour of that bend and then add a fish plate to make it stronger on bottom and the sides


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Loganwayne said:
236515e554ea10540910629a9cc93351.jpg


If that bottom has a gap in it like it looks like it does. You’ve made a weak place in your playing right where xj tend to bend and crack anyways. You need to add a piece that fallows the contour of that bend and then add a fish plate to make it stronger on bottom and the sides


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yeah I am, got lazy and started on other side.. I'm getting there
 
that is what is called a stress riser. it WILL be forced to bend at that angle now, should you take a hit. the straights are hella fortified, but the only weak link wasnt addressed at all, actually quite the opposite, it is highlighted /accentuated.
 
So you're going to use the front half of a 231 add a spud shaft and 242?
 
1stgenxxx said:
So you're going to use the front half of a 231 add a spud shaft and 242?
Click to expand...

That’s what I suggested instead of him mounting them tail shaft to tailshaft. Which I’m pretty sure it would end up just being 1:1 if he did that.
 
Whatever he comes up with will warrant the need for an upgraded rear output shaft.
I'm curious what approach he takes here. I wonder if he'll divorce mount the rear case with a spud. That would explain the need for such a wheelbase stretch.
 
I looked at cutting up a 231 to use it as a doubler so save on money but.....somehow the ways that I try to save money end up costing me the same and wasting a lot time.
With that said, I'm going to buy a custom planetary housing a put 231hd internals in it. This will be mated to a ford 205.
 
1stgenxxx said:
I looked at cutting up a 231 to use it as a doubler so save on money but.....somehow the ways that I try to save money end up costing me the same and wasting a lot time.
With that said, I'm going to buy a custom planetary housing a put 231hd internals in it. This will be mated to a ford 205.
Click to expand...

I did one of the 231/300 doublers in my old MJ. I was happy with it and it never let me down. But there's no way I'd do a 231/231 or 231/241 setup. The added torque will be tough for an aluminum case to withstand.

231/205 would be a pretty good setup or just pony a little more for a NW Fab econo box.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top