oscar80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2009
- Location
- Sanford NC
Yeah its normal pla not sure on the melting temp. If anyone is good with cad maybe some snaps on the end would work and additional supports on the middle.
That is what I was thinking. I appreciate you printing it for me. Chainsaw sharpening is new for me so that sharpener and some you tubes have really helped me figure it out. Again thanks.Yeah its normal pla not sure on the melting temp. If anyone is good with cad maybe some snaps on the end would work and additional supports on the middle.
see also: zip ties.See this is why I hang out here. Smart idea....
Can yall stop doing this useful stuff? I'm going to end up buying a printer I don't need to make things I don't need.Yesterday I needed a jig for installing hardware on new kitchen cabinets. A short time later, I had the jigs printed. Simple and quick.
Can yall stop doing this useful stuff? I'm going to end up buying a printer I don't need to make things I don't need.
Not a lot of people have a scanner, but you would be surprised what it available on the web.I don't know much about printing, I assume you can scan an object and make another one. Well, a piece of metal fell on my old Sears compound miter saw handle and broke it into pieces while I was reaching to get a 10x2 board. The top half is good, the bottom half shattered into many pieces, some I've not found because I have to clear a bunch of stuff out of the way to find them. If I find all of pieces and glued them back together could it be scanned and printed? AND how much would it cost? I think the saw bout $130 when I bought it on sale many years ago.
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I have the model 137.212310 and the part # 2D9CNot a lot of people have a scanner, but you would be surprised what it available on the web.
For instance 137.212290 Craftsman Miter Saw Handle by CalvinChristopher
See if you can find a part number or post the model of saw. If the stl file is out there, I can print it for you
amazon shows that those parts are interchangeable between the 137.21310 and 137.212290. Give me a day or so to see if I can print them.I have the model 137.212310 and the part # 2D9C
That would great if you can find and build another one.amazon shows that those parts are interchangeable between the 137.21310 and 137.212290. Give me a day or so to see if I can print them.
@mommucked I was able to get the files to were I think they will print good. The handle is just a little bit bigger than my print bed, so I'll have to make each handle into two pieces (see pic for example) and then glue them together. Either way if everything fits with your saw, it will still make it useable. I'll start printing tonight, but may take a couple days to finish everything. I'll get up with you later once I see how they come out.That would great if you can find and build another one.
If for whatever reason this isn't going to work for you, it should fit on my CR10. It will definitely fit in the S5 at work ;-)@mommucked I was able to get the files to were I think they will print good. The handle is just a little bit bigger than my print bed, so I'll have to make each handle into two pieces (see pic for example) and then glue them together. Either way if everything fits with your saw, it will still make it useable. I'll start printing tonight, but may take a couple days to finish everything. I'll get up with you later once I see how they come out.
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I'll give it a try with PLA, it should be strong enough as long as he doesn't have more metal dropping on it. I also have ASA but I would worry about warp on a part that big and flat.If for whatever reason this isn't going to work for you, it should fit on my CR10. It will definitely fit in the S5 at work ;-)
This may be a case where PLA isn't going to hold up, ideally it should be in nylon (probably what it was originally) but ABS likely good enough (I can't do nylon at home yet). Or PETG. This reminds me I've been meaning to try some on the CR10.