3D PRINTING

it hurts
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I'm currently learning more and more about 3d printing to hopefully be able to do some projects with my class. I test printed this center console latch to make sure I understood slicing and setting infill. I did get the original file off of thingiverse. 20221027_130901.jpg

This does make me want to purchase a printer for the house for personal projects. I'm leaning towards getting the Ender 3 Pro.
 
Keith1138 said:
I'm currently learning more and more about 3d printing to hopefully be able to do some projects with my class. I test printed this center console latch to make sure I understood slicing and setting infill. I did get the original file off of thingiverse. View attachment 383855

This does make me want to purchase a printer for the house for personal projects. I'm leaning towards getting the Ender 3 Pro.
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If you do, go ahead and get the latest version, the Ender 3 V2 Neo.
It has all the extra features you'll end up adding anyway, all together with all the bugs worked out.
 
So this might be a question for @RatLabGuy more than anyone:

I have a CR10V2, worked great for awhile but I haven't used it recently because it was having issues. MINTEMP errors. I have changed the whole hotend a couple times. I'm about to throw it on FB marketplace and buy a new one that is direct drive as I was having some feed issues with the bowden tube setup that comes on it. The TPU works good sometimes but I think the direct drive would help with printing TPU stuff. My phone case has cracked, I have a new case I've designed that uses a mix of TPU and PLA to make it tougher. I use the phone on my motorcycle with a quadlock mount so having a quadlock mount on the case is a must. On one hand I don't want to buy another printer, but the boys do enjoy it when it's working and it encourages them to 'tinker' with CAD.
 
Tacoma747 said:
So this might be a question for @RatLabGuy more than anyone:

I have a CR10V2, worked great for awhile but I haven't used it recently because it was having issues. MINTEMP errors. I have changed the whole hotend a couple times. I'm about to throw it on FB marketplace and buy a new one that is direct drive as I was having some feed issues with the bowden tube setup that comes on it. The TPU works good sometimes but I think the direct drive would help with printing TPU stuff. My phone case has cracked, I have a new case I've designed that uses a mix of TPU and PLA to make it tougher. I use the phone on my motorcycle with a quadlock mount so having a quadlock mount on the case is a must. On one hand I don't want to buy another printer, but the boys do enjoy it when it's working and it encourages them to 'tinker' with CAD.
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There is a common issue with these with the thermocouple getting slightly pinched or crinked and it throws an invalid value to the control board. Pull the couple out and inspect it closely. They are like $5 on Amazon. I actually got my CR10V2 for this exact reason - a guy booted it up and it threw this error and he just set it aside, waited too long to return it, and sold it off really cheap..
The other thing is is wire connections between the hot end and the board, there is an intermediate PCB on the frame, sometimes those connectors are shitty.

I know what you mean on direct drive, I've been itching to change mine to a Volcano for faster printing and will probably just swap everything at once.

If I were just buying a whole new printer, and wanted to stay cheap, as mentioned above I'd probably go w/ an Ender3 Neo Max. You get everything... direct drive, all metal hot end, auto leveling, the bigger bed, and a bazillion user base community.
 
RatLabGuy said:
There is a common issue with these with the thermocouple getting slightly pinched or crinked and it throws an invalid value to the control board. Pull the couple out and inspect it closely. They are like $5 on Amazon. I actually got my CR10V2 for this exact reason - a guy booted it up and it threw this error and he just set it aside, waited too long to return it, and sold it off really cheap..
The other thing is is wire connections between the hot end and the board, there is an intermediate PCB on the frame, sometimes those connectors are shitty.

I know what you mean on direct drive, I've been itching to change mine to a Volcano for faster printing and will probably just swap everything at once.

If I were just buying a whole new printer, and wanted to stay cheap, as mentioned above I'd probably go w/ an Ender3 Neo Max. You get everything... direct drive, all metal hot end, auto leveling, the bigger bed, and a bazillion user base community.
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I did print a couple things with it today, but EVERY time I try the phone case out of TPU it screws up (starts pushing filament out at the extruder). I can print other stuff out of TPU with no issues, I think the fix is just going to have to be a direct drive. SO, Tell me what I need to buy to convert to direct drive. It seems like the V2 is a unicorn in the fact that nobody makes a direct bolt on setup. But I can't seem to figure out the reasons the other CR10 setups don't work. I like the MicroSwiss setup, but I don't really know what I am looking at.
 
Tacoma747 said:
I did print a couple things with it today, but EVERY time I try the phone case out of TPU it screws up (starts pushing filament out at the extruder). I can print other stuff out of TPU with no issues, I think the fix is just going to have to be a direct drive. SO, Tell me what I need to buy to convert to direct drive. It seems like the V2 is a unicorn in the fact that nobody makes a direct bolt on setup. But I can't seem to figure out the reasons the other CR10 setups don't work. I like the MicroSwiss setup, but I don't really know what I am looking at.
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I don't understand, what's different about the phone case from other TPU stuff?
Technically if you waned to chase this down, it's probably something with teh extruder... the gear may be a little worn and slipping. Maybe possible your heat isn't quite enough and it's slightly pushing back from pressure at the nozzle.

If you want to switch - why not just get a replacement V3 head etc, and then update Marlin? The only difference between V2 and V3 is that V3 is direct drive. In fact w/ some digging if you want to save some $$ I'd bet it's the same stepper motor and maybe even teh same extruder, you reaally only need the V3 frame.
 
OK @Tacoma747 now you got me thinking about this... and this seems to be the kit...
www.fabreeko.com

Cr-10 v2 to v3 conversion kit (titan extruder)

Kit to convert the cr-10 v2 into a v3. Comes with titan, stepper motor and wires needed for installation.
www.fabreeko.com www.fabreeko.com
EDIT You can just buy it right from Creality right here
www.creality3dofficial.com

Genuine E3D Titan Extruder Kits For CR-10 V2/V3

Creality Official 3D Printer and accessories online store, Creality Titan extruder direct drive, CR-10 V2 3D Printer Titan Extruder Drive, extruders with high gear ratios often struggle with snappy retracts and keeping up with Volcano for big, fast printing.
www.creality3dofficial.com www.creality3dofficial.com
 
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@RatLabGuy

I found a 3d printed bracket on thingiverse, so decided to try the cheap options first. Seems to be a nice setup, I think with this maybe all I will have to upgrade is the tensioner assembly (not sure what it's called) if there is a better one for tpu. Just have to extend the extruder wires now but that should be it. The 3d printed bracket came out alot better than I thought it would. Took 4.5 hours to print.

IMG_20221101_121933081_HDR.jpg
 
It functions. The issue I am having is shown in the one picture. I wonder if maybe the flow setting is set too high or something and causes it to push more than it can handle. It did this again even with the direct feed setup. Hopefully it was a table level/offset issue. Have printed a few things with success, just the phone case always causes me trouble.

I DO like getting the print spool inside the enclosure though.

I don't know how I have had so much luck with TPU because my current luck is horrible. One thing prints great, the next horrible.
 

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Tacoma747 said:
It functions. The issue I am having is shown in the one picture. I wonder if maybe the flow setting is set too high or something and causes it to push more than it can handle. It did this again even with the direct feed setup. Hopefully it was a table level/offset issue. Have printed a few things with success, just the phone case always causes me trouble.

I DO like getting the print spool inside the enclosure though.

I don't know how I have had so much luck with TPU because my current luck is horrible. One thing prints great, the next horrible.
Click to expand...
I'm betting your speed or flow isn't right, or the temp quite enough to get good flow through the hot end.
Also, if you're having trouble only with this specific model, watch closely and see if there's a particular location it fails. Does the first layer work out well?
It possible there is something weird in the slicer settings that is getting called up with that particilar model.
 
Pretty sure I know the answer is going to be don't do it. But I have a communication closet at home that has my modem,switch, firewall etc. In it. It's only half full so I was going to build out the top half to hold my 3d printer. Would this be a bad idea with the electronics in there?
 
oscar80 said:
Pretty sure I know the answer is going to be don't do it. But I have a communication closet at home that has my modem,switch, firewall etc. In it. It's only half full so I was going to build out the top half to hold my 3d printer. Would this be a bad idea with the electronics in there?
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No reason it would matter. The printer will put out some heat but not so much as to kill stuff like that.
The bigger issue may be access to the printer. There will be times when something jambs and you'll need to get all around it for service.
Oh, and maybe ventilation, if you plan to print anything smally like ABS.
 
I didn't know if it put of particles or not. Closet has doors on front and back.
RatLabGuy said:
No reason it would matter. The printer will put out some heat but not so much as to kill stuff like that.
The bigger issue may be access to the printer. There will be times when something jambs and you'll need to get all around it for service.
Oh, and maybe ventilation, if you plan to print anything smally like ABS.
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Idnt
 
oscar80 said:
I didn't know if it put of particles or not. Closet has doors on front and back.

Idnt
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Well - yes. The space around them tends to get messy, not b/c of tiny little bits like w/ a CNC or something but bc you often have little chunks of things that fall off from oozing or extra extrusion, or pieces from failed prints or cleaning the bed and such.
The easiest way to alleviate all your concerns is to get one that has its own enclosure, and all the mess will be self-contained.
 
Sold the cr10v2. Threw it on FB marketplace for $200 and sold it the same day, was tired of messing with it. The guy that bought it already has it going apparently. I don't know if it was a bad connection or what, tried changing the thermistor but that didn't help. May have been the board I don't know.

Bought a cr10v3 and got it up and running today. Have printed three things so far without issue. I printed a new phone case that I had modified some from the last one, but the end product I want the case to be out of TPU so it has a little more 'give' to it.

Overall, it was worth spending $120 as opposed to spending many more hours and probably money fixing and upgrading the V2.

(That's an expensive phone case) 😆
 
Tacoma747 said:
Sold the cr10v2. Threw it on FB marketplace for $200 and sold it the same day, was tired of messing with it. The guy that bought it already has it going apparently. I don't know if it was a bad connection or what, tried changing the thermistor but that didn't help. May have been the board I don't know.

Bought a cr10v3 and got it up and running today. Have printed three things so far without issue. I printed a new phone case that I had modified some from the last one, but the end product I want the case to be out of TPU so it has a little more 'give' to it.

Overall, it was worth spending $120 as opposed to spending many more hours and probably money fixing and upgrading the V2.

(That's an expensive phone case) 😆
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how the hell did you get a new CR10V3 for only $320?
 
My kids have one at their school they get to use in their tech class and they love it. They told me they wanted one for Christmas. Guess I might be in the market now. And I guess I need to go back through this thread looking for recommendations. Anyone want to save me some time and tell what they recommend? 😁
 
Here is the one I'm planning on getting based on recommendations from here and from the tech teacher at the high-school.

Official Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo 3D Printer with CR Touch Auto Leveling Kit PC Spring Steel Platform Full-Metal Extruder, 95% Pre-Installed 3D Printers with Resume Printing and Model Preview Function https://a.co/d/55c6mQe
 
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