88 XJ..." The Abomination"

suspension and steering especially are not places you want to cobble some shit together.
 
You guys are so gullible! This is obviously an April fools joke. Not even John is retarded enough to think that is in any way acceptable.
 
well he does have thornbirds, so I wouldn't put anything past him
 
please tell me this is an April fools!!?? If not
let me know when you are guna wheel that thing!....I will ride behind you and pick up parts as they come off! Lol:flipoff2: JK


Seriously, you may want to revisit this..
 
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X-jeeper said:
That upper link tied to the top of the diff does not look very beefy. My buddy ripped his aftermarket link mount off and it caused all kinds of damage. Might want to rethink that design...
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yeah i figured that wouldn't work too well...its just a temp to drive it around here and see if i like it. now that i have driven it some around the back roads and messed around the yard...they have to be redone anyways cause i can't turn very far at all with those thorn-lugs lol so now on to drawing board for how to make some arms that bend inward about 3" so my tires will clear..anyone got pictures of curved control arms they've done or seen.
 
krehel24 said:
please tell me this is an April fools!!?? If not
let me know when you are guna wheel that thing!....I will ride behind you and pick up parts as they come off! Lol:flipoff2: JK


Seriously, you may want to revisit this..
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I'm well aware of my stock axles, welded front and rear, big nobby ass tires and the most important of all...very very light foot on the skinny!! i've done the same setup on 39.5s and no issues but again i'm very light footed and just like to get out and enjoy the trails just as much as the next guy. I work with what i can. This is also why i'm so big on Grooving Tires like these and Deflating...these 2 along with easy foot has gotten me all the fun i desire for now anyways..until someday i can get some real axles.
 
John Fuller said:
yeah i figured that wouldn't work too well...its just a temp to drive it around here and see if i like it. now that i have driven it some around the back roads and messed around the yard...they have to be redone anyways cause i can't turn very far at all with those thorn-lugs lol so now on to drawing board for how to make some arms that bend inward about 3" so my tires will clear..anyone got pictures of curved control arms they've done or seen.
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Picture a straight piece of tube, only curved.
 
BLarkin said:
In before the drama starts... :popcorn::beer:
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lol are we placing our bets already he he. nah, no drama here. i wouldn't post my stuff or my new jeep if i was worried about peoples comments anymore..i don't care anymore. I'm proud of my jeeps just as much as anyone else is proud of their builds. Only difference with me and others seems to be lack of finances. If i had the funds for heim joints, the proper steel tubing/dom, proper rims, bigger axles and some better tools (plasma cutter/torch)..my builds would be descently comparable to others but most of the time i'm working with scrap metal, used control arms, and just use what i can to make them work and it does but i'm also not trying to build/claim to build some buggy rock-crawler or badass jeep. It is built to fit my needs and budget!!
 
Jody Treadway said:
Picture a straight piece of tube, only curved.
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but the joints still have to allign in a straight line right? so do i get the metal shop to bend some dom but leave like 2" straight on each end
i have enough money for that lol
 
John Fuller said:
but the joints still have to allign in a straight line right? so do i get the metal shop to bend some dom but leave like 2" straight on each end
i have enough money for that lol
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Tube can be curved as long as you can notch tube so the bushings/joints/whatever align properly
 
X-jeeper said:
well he does have thornbirds, so I wouldn't put anything past him
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hey what's wrong with my Thronbirds? i admit they suck in their stock form but these things are far from that lol. i would actually prefer this set of tires i've done over tsl just cause the lugs can be cut to be deeper and longer than tsl.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Tube can be curved is you can notch tube so the bushings/joints/whatever align properly
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and for the upper arm do i just sleeve them with the dom, then tie them into the lowers with some x-bracing half way up
 
John Fuller said:
and for the upper arm do i just sleeve them with the dom, then tie them into the lowers with some x-bracing half way up
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No. Use joints and/ bushings on each end of the "uppers". Don't do just 1 upper. You will need both, maybe 3 or more based on that weld you posted :D
Don't rush, don't cheap out. Do it as right as you can and maintain a respectable level of safety.
 
ohh both sides have uppers lol. i was going off the setup of the Iron Rock control arms and that's where i got the idea from to mock it up and see how it flexes around the yard and drives and if i liked it, stick with this kind of design. but you're saying to do a bushing on both sides of the uppers instead of this setup from what i'm getting. if so, do the other links go better on the frame rails or on the lowers
 
Iron Rock and Rough country both sell the long arms like this so i was thinking it was a pretty good design but i'm definately open to a better one that articulates better
 
Listen to Jody's advice. He isn't screwing with you.

The cut Thornbirds look like they will dig. I'd run them.
 
drkelly said:
Listen to Jody's advice. He isn't screwing with you.

The cut Thornbirds look like they will dig. I'd run them.
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ohh i'm def listening and trying to learn better. thanks. and yeah they do dig which for me and little axles could be a bad thing lol. but with locked front and rear and running at 0 psi i crawled right up couple banks around the yard no problem so they work good. it's funny....at 0psi they have no bulge and still pretty stiff for being 0. i let all the air out of them just for test and then i could finally see bulge but nowhere near flat. that 4ply sidewall sure is strong and stiff
 
so i just now drew this on paint lol...is this what Jody is referiing to for lowers with bent dom and still lining up the eyes?
control arm drawing.jpg
 
Turn the joints 90* from now they are pictured.
The bolt holes would need to be in the same plane as the bend. Meaning the bend would go towards the engine side as would the attaching bolts for the links.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Turn the joints 90* from now they are pictured.
The bolt holes would need to be in the same plane as the bend. Meaning the bend would go towards the engine side as would the attaching bolts for the links.
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ok i feel stupid but you lost me...my add must be kicking in(why i never went to school and learn everything hand on lol)
 
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