88 XJ..." The Abomination"

I don't like rear tire carriers at all. IMO they are annoying when trying to get in the rear, block vision, add extra weight/length in the back up high. Only time I would consider one is if I drove the vehicle on the road all the time, and for long distances at that. But in a XJ I would put the tire in the back.

Also if you're going to build one, it needs to be mounted from the bumper. The hatch can't support the weight. Nor can the shocks when you lift it.

I would carry an air tank/comp and a plug/patch/seal kit.
 
You could buy 99NCXJ's rig: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f70/99xj-toyota-axles-3-link-full-cage-39-5s-etc-198811/
ai190.photobucket.com_albums_z249_99ncxj_phonedump3_5_12196_zps77b20d35.jpg
 
^ that's one of the better XJ exos I've seen!
 
X-jeeper said:
I hope like hell if you ever have an exo cage its a little tighter to the body than that one. Dream a little bigger haha
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ohh i would def put it closer i just meant i liked the looks of it
 
jeepinmatt said:
You could buy 99NCXJ's rig: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f70/99xj-toyota-axles-3-link-full-cage-39-5s-etc-198811/
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nice xj but don't like how the cage only covers the front though but nice jeep...still for 9000 i would have a field day building my own xj and with how frugal i've learned to be, lol, it would turn out nowhere near as pretty but for sure more beastly. (now in dream mode:9000 for me would equal xj on 40s, D60 F&R welded, 231/300doubler with strongest driveshafts possible, exo cage, 4.0 stroker and bored .60over with other bolt ons, good cheap but strong bumpers, on board air and bead locks, and cheap v8 truck and trailer to haul it with and probably enough money left over to treat the family to small vacation...which for us wouldn't require much. i'm used to building my personal jeeps with around 1000 to 1300max from the price of jeep itself and what mods i do so to imagine $9000 for a build is actually kinda dreaming big for me. i'm sure for most this is money spend in just the drivetrain but that kinda money for me and my desires of wheeling would be my version of baddest xj ever and nice family vacation.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Also if you're going to build one, it needs to be mounted from the bumper. The hatch can't support the weight. Nor can the shocks when you l
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that's what i figured..thank you and i guess on top for now...i like my back space empty for picnic items, parts, chains,etc...so on the roof for now. thanks
 
i have to admit a funny gesture that my friends gave me when i pulled up in the jeep yesterday at their work: so i pull in with the jeep and he comes out and i hear "The Abomination Is Here" LMAO. it gave me a really good laugh. the "abomination" they named it LOL
 
is that 3link type i did considered radius arm? if so then yeah i done away with it and now back to 4 link like factory but with the JK uppers and lowers just lengthened and the lowers with a new crossmember and long arms. i like your picture post...thank you. i'm by far anywhere near levels of fabrication and design as most members here are but i love to learn, like to try, love to experiment and get to point where it works for me and my budget and needs while jotting down ideas of how to improve what i did.
so are you saying using 2stock control arms combined together and braced with c-channel or similar is ok to use? i used to do that but everyone would tell me it was bad idea and not good so i started buying JK arms from a friend who gives me good deal on them but if the original ones work with bracing them properly, i would do that on some "budget budget" jeeps ( i have some friends who are financially suppressed who would go for this if i knew it was still ok to do). My next project is to start looking into getting Heim Joints and get going on making some "real long arms" and a legit crossmember to offer to some customers but still working on it.
 
got to test out jeep today...i was pretty happy for what the trail has to offer, boy these tires DIG and wow they dig fast when spinning...i really can't wait to go somewhere awesome but here's a few pics...also picked up 16"trailer today(friend from church donated it to me) so now i have one down...just need something to haul with lol. tried uploading video of a ravine/washout i went up but couldn't..i'm amazed at how True 4x4 really performs.
glades action shot.jpg
glades mud hole.jpg
my trailer.jpg
 
I'm glad to hear you went back to the 4-link. I can't say that I know the difference between JK arms and the stock control arms, so I'm a little hesitant to answer that question with a confident 'YES- GO FOR IT!'. Can you throw up a pic of the two side-by-side? Are the JK arms the same general design but longer/beefier?
 
ohh no..the JK arms are not even comparable to the xj ones..longer, boxed steel, better bushings, curved and the uppers are also tube DOM equivalent with very thick axle end and better bushings. compared to stock xj arms, they are just as good an upgrade as any aftermarket control arms for the xj with rubber OEM style bushings.
 
Sounds like that's the way to go! Breaking a link on the trail sucks. If you can get JK arms cheap, it would provide piece of mind over extending the stockers.
 
FrontPorchFab said:
Sounds like that's the way to go! Breaking a link on the trail sucks. If you can get JK arms cheap, it would provide piece of mind over extending the stockers.
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I think we r extending the jk links too...
 
GotWood said:
I think we r extending the jk links too...
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yep and they work great for long arms. for street purposes right now, i like factory bushing style arms and these have great strength and nice bend for full lock steering. if i get to trailering my jeep more often soon, then i will switch to heim joints eventually.
 
hey it's whatever works right..anything is upgrade from the factory ones lol
 
update on "the Abomination" build (LMAO) btw i didn't name it that, others did! my air tank worked really really good at the Flats last weekend,. saved my butt several times when i broke a bead(thank you Jody for your help with that and whoever else was there) and then same tire later went to 0 twice cause of stupid wheel weights WTF??? so i was SOO happy to have that tank installed. Only carnage i managed to get was fuel pump fuse blew (fusible link went out), electric fans switch burned up (factory wiring kept them going at 220 still), got rammed into from the rear while hauling someone back to camp...pretty good dent in bumper but trailer hitch kept it together pretty good, broke a tire bead, and about 10lb of mud inside my jeep>>>DAM...my nice interior is disgusting so 3 hours with the vacuum again. I was very surprised to have been able to leave the front locked in the whole time and still steer pretty effortlessly so i guess the p/s cooler and p/s pump piston mod really made a difference...only when stopped on a flex would it be hard otherwise it turned really smooth??? beats me!! Turdyfive held up awesome and so did the front 30, all joints tight as they were new weeks ago so i was very happy with my trip to a park and came home in one piece!!
 
got my new rear diff today almost complete...gusset and welded gears, shock mounts cut off, gonna shave it 3/4 inch and add some custom shock mounts. what i got so far: at least i know for "my" style wheeling, this diff will hold up and IF it ever breaks, it would have to grenade into million pieces or suppose a shaft but from what i hear many many say, the shafts can take pretty good abuse so i think i'm gonna be happy with this setup. 29spline 8.25
8.25 gusset.jpg
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John Fuller said:
got my new rear diff today almost complete...gusset and welded gears, shock mounts cut off, gonna shave it 3/4 inch and add some custom shock mounts. what i got so far: at least i know for "my" style wheeling, this diff will hold up and IF it ever breaks, it would have to grenade into million pieces or suppose a shaft but from what i hear many many say, the shafts can take pretty good abuse so i think i'm gonna be happy with this setup. 29spline 8.25
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looks like you need more weld
 
was that a joke lol, cause i don't think i could possibly add more weld to the carrier. both sides are welded on all 4 corners then second round on top of that (which has never broke) then i put the plate in there and welded all sides of every tooth to the plate on both sides and welded the spiders to the carrier also lol...this diff won't eve break unless the shafts were to go which i won't ever give it enough abuse to do that so i think i'm plenty plenty.
 
trying to add some stuff to the jeep: have a little budget. need some advise fellas:
--how much would i benefit from wider/more offset rims as far as what the cost will be. IE: for say 150 on used set of 15x10 rims or so with more offset, would i gain improvement with those rims worth the $150 or would that money be better off on say...Durango steering box which new is $142 which would give me the full steering i need with the locked front, especially with the other steering mods done to it already.
--I've decided not to go to the 8" lift cause you guys were right to keep my COG low with this setup for now!! so on to the next discussion: I know how to get my front setup to flex better (longer shocks which i have and need to redo my axle side track bar bracket completely) but the rear leafs my shackles is the hold up (tested it out on my ramp) SO, advise on Shackles please: is there a way to do longer shackles or just add in like 3" extra long brackets to my existing setup BUT BUT without going higher lift. i have longer shocks for the rears too but the shackles is keeping the rear from drooping past couple inches so what is the best route to go for the rear to gain some drop.
thank you for advise on this stuff. (as frugal as my jeep build is, i just contemplate a lot on how what little extra money the Lord blesses me with for my jeep that it gets spent for the best mods that will benefit my current setup the best).
 
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