88 XJ..." The Abomination"

The tie rod mostly the ram is going to move weather it moves the rock and tires or the tie rod. If you find a v8 zj get the steering its a cheap upgrade but still wouldn't expect it to last a long time
 
so would sleeving it with DOM work though...i mean that would make it pretty dam thick and mind you, i'm very cautious to not bind my steering and even with this ram assist, i still plan on acting like i "don't have one" so i don't strain it more, it will just be nice to have the ease of turning better that's all. (You should've seen me up Easy St, and Ol Sumpy...how much i had to stop, back up, allign steering, back up align steering to make it around obstacles instead of driving over them, lol but it works so this setup i hope will just ease this process a bit. My power steering mod and cooler kick ass for such a cheap mod and what a difference turning these 35s when moving and welded feels like stock tires most of the time until i hit like 2-4mph or so).
see yall tomorrow, thanks for all the input so far guys. much appreciated. got TJ lift to finish in the am so adios bretheren!
 
John Fuller said:
so would sleeving it with DOM work though...i mean that would make it pretty dam thick and mind you
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I'm am not deeply familiar with XJ steering since I have never owned one, but I bent my stock drag link on my Samurai twice very early on when I started wheeling it. A samurai has what is referred to as 'inverted T' steering geometry. I believe XJ's have 'inverted Y' steering so is different and what I did may not work. The stock drag link on a Samurai is 0.75" OD solid rod. I cut it in two, then sleeved it with a piece of 1" OD 0.120" wall tubing with a piece of 1" schedule 40 pipe over that (the stuff I had on hand at the time). 7 years of hard wheeling and it hasn't bent again. I have seen people on the trail several times with bent drag links or tie rods on XJ and TJ's etc. I'm not sure which link (drag link or tie rod) or both on an XJ are prone to bending. I do know that it is a common problem though, and leaves you dead in the water until you remove and straighten it to get off the trail.
 
John Fuller said:
^^^that's the issue though. i have a bastard pack and it sucks (like they all do) and i've tested the flex on my ramp at home and it is the shackle cause it only goes so far then the shackle angle lines up with the leafs and it's done but I've seen guys run shackles where at ride height they are sitting at a backward 45 so it has way more travel to reach parallel with leafs when fully drooped (hope i'm making sense). .
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You need something like this:

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-xj-shackle-relocation-kit-1117.html

http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/products/xj-shackle-relocation-kit

http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
 
I would recommend converting the stock Y-link steering to a T link or high steer setup too. That will help it out a ton. Sleeving your tierod will help with the assist forces, but stock tierod ends can only take so much force. Im not that big into Jeeps, but I think a stock WJ knuckle can get you high crossover steering, and many of the aftermarket steering upgrades will convert to a Inverted-T with beefier TREs.

For your assist, you will need the AN fittings for the ram if it doesn't have them (likely -6 or -8 male), fittings for when you TAP your box (NPT to -6/-8 AN male), hoses long enough to reach during travel with the appropriate AN fittings (-6/-8 female, maybe 90/45*).
 
Check out surpluscenter.com
Order a catalog and then you can sit down and make a parts list of everything you will need.
If you are considering hydro assist you are going to want a t link steering setup preferably flipped to the top of the steering arms.
East coast gear supply and barnes4wd.com both have kits you can use to build a strong steering linkage.
 
hey guys...great info and advise which i am taking the 'steering link" advise to heart and gonna go with that. i just placed an order today from someone i met at the Flats for HD DOM complete steering link system all with Heim joints and the longer tie rod that connects at the passenger tire with the the draglink. David with Wicked Creations Custom Off-Road is giving me a really good deal on brand new entire setup since we camped next to him was able to aid him with cooling fan and some spare broken bolts. He reccomended doing this too over the Hydro Assist for now and assures me with it steering pretty easy already minus slow turns, he believes this should get me straight (has sold many to customers with welded front and says they turn up to 37s without ram assist no problem) i am still gonna buy that $25 ram just cause it's so cheap and hold on to it while saving up for that but i'm EXITED to get this steering setup this weekend. First time in 15years with XJs and I'm finally going to beef up the steering...OMG, what's the world coming to LOL. thanks for the advise again.
--on the shackle relocation box, i've been contemplating building one since i've seen so many threads on it and from your comments, i think i will start the drawing board. (takes me a while to get things like that drawn out, more drawing out, then cut, then cut again, weld, cut, weld ....now i'm good LMFAO but true, Dam ADD). i should've taken picture of my tire rod as it has a real nice bend in it from going up Ol Stumpy several times lol so I"M EXITED, WOOHOO!!
 
Surplus center for ram, fittings, and hoses.

Generally tap the box 1/4" npt, and use adapter to get to 3/8 npt hoses and fittings.

Usually the fittings at the rams are jic and take an o-ring. You will need the corresponding JIC to npt adapter fittings.
 
Mac5005 said:
Surplus center for ram, fittings, and hoses.

Generally tap the box 1/4" npt, and use adapter to get to 3/8 npt hoses and fittings.

Usually the fittings at the rams are jic and take an o-ring. You will need the corresponding JIC to npt adapter fittings.
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When I get a chance I will pull the part numbers for what I order when I do them so then everyone will have the info for fun reference.
 
I should have an invoice of what I order from surplus center the many times I have.
Ram, $99
Hoses (3/8 npt), $8 each x2
1/4-3/8 npt male to female swivel x2
SAE6 o-ring to 3/8 npt female 90x2
1/4" npt drill and tap kit ~$15. I buy a new tap and bit every time.
Every parts list I've ordered has been well under $180 for everything.
 
well i had a great day...check out what i scored today at my local steel shop. guy has gotten to know me working on jeeps so he hooked me up with some stuff he had in a pile...all this plus he made my brackets for the Shacle drop boxes for $30 bucks....i'm stoked. i'm in process of making rock rails/step bars out of them and probably use the angle iron for roof rack and something to do in the front end...bumper maybe. the brackets that are on the end of the square tubes is SOO perfect for the rock rails/step bars...they sit nicely on the unibody rails.
0609143425.jpg
0609143450.jpg
 
throw me some ideas of what to do with the angle iron or those square pieces...i have 5 left after doing the rock rails withem and all the angle iron
 
NCJeeplover said:
For the flex on the rear, the thing i notice about xj's it the shackle angle. Shackle relocates help more than anything. Your Bastard pack might work better than you think with the right shackle angle. H. D. Offroad Engineering is the only one making a no lift shackle relocation that I know of.

http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopi...oducts/no-lift-xj-shackle-relocation-brackets
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i've got this in the making right now...had the metal shop make one side and got so sidetracked and exited loading up all the steel i bought, totally forgot to tell em i needed 2 sets LOL...DUH
 
hey, might be dumb question but anyone use the steering stabalizer mount on the D30 for the track bar? is it too weak for trail only rig or would it hold up. i need to redo mine for more droop and couldn't help notice that it's a perfect spot higher up that would really free up the track bar
 
John Fuller said:
hey, might be dumb question but anyone use the steering stabalizer mount on the D30 for the track bar? is it too weak for trail only rig or would it hold up. i need to redo mine for more droop and couldn't help notice that it's a perfect spot higher up that would really free up the track bar
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You want the track bar to be parallel with the drag link, to minimize bump steer.

So if you are changing the steering, you should wait to finish the track bar, once the new steering is done.
 
Mac5005 said:
You want the track bar to be parallel with the drag link, to minimize bump steer.

So if you are changing the steering, you should wait to finish the track bar, once the new steering is done.
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Good Point. thank you
 
so i made some Rock Rails/Step Bars today and i think they're pretty cool. Probably more step bars than they are Rock Rails but they seem pretty solid and better than nothing i reckon. First time ever making anything of the like!
step bars DS.jpg
step bars underneath.jpg
stepbars PS.jpg
stepbars underneath 2.jpg
 
Loganwayne said:
Rockauto makes there money on shipping form personal experience it is close to auto parts store prices once you figure in shipping
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I just did inner and outer TRE's and upper ball-joints on my tacoma. I had a discount code for $40 off $100 purchase at advance auto. I split it up into smaller orders to take full advantage of the discount. Rockauto was still nearly $100 cheaper on the exact same parts. They have some no-name cheap shit, but they also have the good stuff and it is usually a good bit cheaper. The difference is, you have to wait; it may ship from somewhere close and be here in two days, it may come CA and take a week. My TRE and ball-joint order shipped from 2 warehouses and took just over a week to get it all.
 
strange1 said:
I just did inner and outer TRE's and upper ball-joints on my tacoma. I had a discount code for $40 off $100 purchase at advance auto. I split it up into smaller orders to take full advantage of the discount. Rockauto was still nearly $100 cheaper on the exact same parts. They have some no-name cheap shit, but they also have the good stuff and it is usually a good bit cheaper. The difference is, you have to wait; it may ship from somewhere close and be here in two days, it may come CA and take a week. My TRE and ball-joint order shipped from 2 warehouses and took just over a week to get it all.
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Guess it depends on the parts. I looked up shocks all new brakes. And the difference was only 35 dollars then it was 20-30 shipping so more or less break even. I also have a commercial account that saves me a little bit on stuff like that at Orilleys
 
^^^yeah the shipping thing would get me and i think i'll stick with local guy who can give me easy returns, exhanges and warranty also.
 
John Fuller said:
so i made some Rock Rails/Step Bars today and i think they're pretty cool. Probably more step bars than they are Rock Rails but they seem pretty solid and better than nothing i reckon. First time ever making anything of the like!
View attachment 189332 View attachment 189333 View attachment 189334 View attachment 189335
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That angle will fold up pretty fast if you lean on it, id bet. My suggestion, pull it tighter to the body and replace the angle with some box tubing. If you really want to step up your game, research cutting out the rockers and replacing with tubing.
 
I didn't even notice it was angle. Needs to be tubing (round or square) with wall thickness at least .188" if you want it to function as a slider.
 
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