88 XJ..." The Abomination"

as7.postimg.org_ywnk2t4mj_ayecarumbaoj3.jpg
 
ON A SERIOUS NOTE AND QUESTION:
which style Doubler would be the better route to go, i have the materials to do it both ways but have mixed facts about which one is likely "stronger" thank you
either option A (something similar to this divorced setup)
awww.pirate4x4.com_forum_attachments_general_4x4_discussion_737c394ed447fa0dfc15c80de98ccdb818.jpg

or option B (exactly this type setup)
homemade doubler.jpg

thanks for response...
please don't tell me not to do doubler cause it's getting done either way, have gathered materials, extra case, just looking for anyone who might have done one of these setups and could vouch for one of the setups...
btw, i went this route cause it saves 600 not having to buy the kit
 
Mac5005 said:
Is that square tube or angle iron on the a pillars?
Click to expand...
You're gonna kick my ass i bet:
Pillars in Front are 5/16" C-channel, piece going across dash area is 4" round 5/16" whatever it is, shc40 going down through floor into rock sliders, behind front seats is sch40 and then 1/4" 3"angle iron going across top, behind rear seat above is 1.5x1.5 1/4" square, piece in rear hatch is 4" 3/16" square with sch40 running off that to top and to very rear pillars, very rear pillars has 3" angle iron 1/4" going across top with 5/16" 2.5"round tube going down into 8" C-channel welded to unibody frame rails with plate attaching those c-channels together...all welded and all FREE
 
few pics of the flex so far...it goes better but that's all i can get from that hill and the rear finally stuffs all the way up in the wheel wells...not bad for hack job lift kit and 3cherokee rear leafs combined together
my D44 front flex up close.jpg
D44 Flex tree house rear.jpg
D44 flex tree house.jpg
D44 bracket up close.jpg
D44 front brackets.jpg
 
marty79 said:
ON A SERIOUS NOTE AND QUESTION:
which style Doubler would be the better route to go, i have the materials to do it both ways but have mixed facts about which one is likely "stronger" thank you
either option A (something similar to this divorced setup)
View attachment 211023
or option B (exactly this type setup)
View attachment 211022
thanks for response...
please don't tell me not to do doubler cause it's getting done either way, have gathered materials, extra case, just looking for anyone who might have done one of these setups and could vouch for one of the setups...
btw, i went this route cause it saves 600 not having to buy the kit
Click to expand...

You need to choose the one that:
A- won't snap the rear half of your transmission off due to weight
B- won't cause your driveshaft angles to be fubar. Especially the front.
C- will allow you to run upgraded output shafts
D- will keep your front driveshaft from making sweet love to your first transfer case
E- will actually fit under an XJ
F- I could go on but it's bedtime in Horse Shoe NC.
 
marty79 said:
Time to revive this "Abomination XJ" build: add ons since last post lol. Turning into one awesome XJ, at least I love it and my most favorite XJ Toy yet!!!
flat bottom rock sliders (freaking awesome how they tuned out)...roll cage tied in to them too
D44 front & rear 4:09 geared
homebrew front bumper $10
homebrew rear bumper $10
interior Cage....NOT FINISHED but something to start with...laugh all you want, better than nothing
body armor.. was bored, had scrap stuff and needed something to do with the new plasma cutter lol
I'm not posting this to get likes...just giving everyone some good laughs for a while ....that is until my doubler gets done, I'm making it too
View attachment 211007 View attachment 211008 View attachment 211009 View attachment 211010 View attachment 211011 View attachment 211012 View attachment 211013 View attachment 211014 View attachment 211016 View attachment 211017
Click to expand...

Mac5005 said:
Is that square tube or angle iron on the a pillars?
Click to expand...

marty79 said:
You're gonna kick my ass i bet:
Pillars in Front are 5/16" C-channel, piece going across dash area is 4" round 5/16" whatever it is, shc40 going down through floor into rock sliders, behind front seats is sch40 and then 1/4" 3"angle iron going across top, behind rear seat above is 1.5x1.5 1/4" square, piece in rear hatch is 4" 3/16" square with sch40 running off that to top and to very rear pillars, very rear pillars has 3" angle iron 1/4" going across top with 5/16" 2.5"round tube going down into 8" C-channel welded to unibody frame rails with plate attaching those c-channels together...all welded and all FREE
Click to expand...


Do just assume that some cage is better than none. I have personally seen cages on the trail that end up hurting someone because they weren't strong enough or designed correctly.
 
The front trackbar looks very questionable. How far is the original solid bar inserted into that tubing?
front-axle-complete-view-jpg.211010
 
I am the last person who should be giving welding advice, but I would weld that tab solid to the truss.

JF front diff gussett view.jpg
 
Jody Treadway said:
You need to choose the one that:
A- won't snap the rear half of your transmission off due to weight
B- won't cause your driveshaft angles to be fubar. Especially the front.
C- will allow you to run upgraded output shafts
D- will keep your front driveshaft from making sweet love to your first transfer case
E- will actually fit under an XJ
F- I could go on but it's bedtime in Horse Shoe NC.
Click to expand...


SO you are leaning option A, right?
 
drkelly said:
I am the last person who should be giving welding advice, but I would weld that tab solid to the truss.

View attachment 211128
Click to expand...
:rockon:That will hold just fine with the kick ass strong welds of the 110V machine and skilzzzzz of the builder. :shaking:
 
jeepinmatt said:
The front trackbar looks very questionable. How far is the original solid bar inserted into that tubing?
front-axle-complete-view-jpg.211010
Click to expand...
Does it really matter? He has plenty of overlap and its parallel to the ground and drag link when it's at full flex. That's the goal, right?
 
jeepinmatt said:
The front trackbar looks very questionable. How far is the original solid bar inserted into that tubing?
front-axle-complete-view-jpg.211010
Click to expand...
it goes in almost all the way...i only had to do what i did because i wanted to add about 1/2" space from the top of it so doing what i did gave it enough angle downwards to clear the housing better
 
drkelly said:
I am the last person who should be giving welding advice, but I would weld that tab solid to the truss.
Click to expand...
it is...those pictures were when it was mostly done in the shop...i have since finished last few brackets to strengthen and added another piece to my "cage"
 
Ron said:
SO you are leaning option A, right?
Click to expand...
well option A is a given...no matter which route i take I will have to make 2 separate mounts for the second case since it's not "properly being bolted" like the fancy kit comes with so weight shouldn't be an issue with whatever double (maybe a third on the fist case) mounts that I do
 
jeepinmatt said:
The front trackbar looks very questionable. How far is the original solid bar inserted into that tubing?
Click to expand...
i don't like my trackbar any better than you do lol but it's what i had to do for now. gonna order me a adjustable or find good used one when i get a chance since i fluctuate with my lift size so much but for now it works as bad and half ass as it may be.
 
marty79 said:
i don't like my trackbar any better than you do lol but it's what i had to do for now. gonna order me a adjustable or find good used one when i get a chance since i fluctuate with my lift size so much but for now it works as bad and half ass as it may be.
Click to expand...

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Especially on that track bar.
 
rockcity said:
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Especially on that track bar.
Click to expand...
i have 2 other track bars that i've acquired since then but don't have time right now...hope i will have one put on before the first April ride
 
StretchASU said:
Is the top of that c channel "truss" even level? Some custom "geometry" we don't know about yet?
Click to expand...
it's "almost level" lol. It ended up being off 4/5* maybe but it works. The way that i do my stuff is:
Lower arms and links get welded and bolted in
then i set the axle in place and put the weight of jeep on springs with just lower arms
then i set the pinion pointing where i want it and set the track bar at the same time(close enough for track bar)
then i make the upper arms with the upper links at the same time and make sure the joints move freely.
flexes good(for now without longer shocks), everything moves nice and freely and no binding. This is the easiest way for me to do it
 
fine I'll say it:
people thought Twice that i sell vehicles that aren't mine/stolen/illegal...on my end I will not explain myself cause I have and I'm a "criminal who needs to go back to romania."
on the forum people's end: they see me as just that and believe 100% that I sell cars Illegally that are stolen. Whatever you choose to believe!! that's all you missed. 99.9% of people here will tell you differently but at least I shared my end of it.
do what you will with it.....
 
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