90's throw back.....Manche build

So overall, roughly a 35 lb gain over simply running 2"x250 dom links for the rear lowers. Since my uppers are only going to be 1.75x120 versus the 2" as previously on the buggy, I'd say it's a wash on the rear.

It's actually only 20# more for the pair.

Going off your 30" long 2" link, it's .58 pounds per inch of link, so a 40" link should weigh about 23.5 pounds. So 10.1# more per link to get the trailing arms in the first picture. And the trailing arms are massively stronger.

:beer:
 
It's actually only 20# more for the pair.

Going off your 30" long 2" link, it's .58 pounds per inch of link, so a 40" link should weigh about 23.5 pounds. So 10.1# more per link to get the trailing arms in the first picture. And the trailing arms are massively stronger.

[emoji481]
I knew someone could get that number nailed down!...


You da man shawn

Matt
 
Anyone that's curious about how the jig worked out.

As far a the jigging goes; using the 2" rectangle and 2"dom made keeping it straight easy. After every weld cooled I check the link bolts, to make sure I can spin or slide them.


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From DR;


[quote name="Josh40601" post=3891217]Are you going with just a single coilover on the trailing arm? That thing looks awesome, and like a pain in the ass to build. lol[/quote]


Yes, building to 4800 legend ultra 4 class whether I race or not: single shock per corner. But, I can easily add bypasses behind the c/o. Nothing a little fabrication can't fix. My jig I made definetly paid off. She's straight, and flat on top. Before I took it off the jig, I preloaded downward pressure, because it was climbing. Then once I pulled it from the jig and on the table to weld the bottom, she pulled back down nicely!


It was definetly a lot of work. Obviously the second will go MUCH faster, due to templates are made and the brainstorming is done. Have nearly 20 hrs in this one. Hope to have less than 12 in number two.
 
Really making me want to research and come up with trailing arms for the jeep now lol. They look sick man awesome fab work.
 
Really making me want to research and come up with trailing arms for the jeep now lol. They look sick man awesome fab work.
Do it, but i warn you it will cascade to a full rebuild! Lol.

Matt
 
A lot of welding on these. Have you thought about stress? and if so, putting in a powedercoating oven to relieve it?
Shouldn't be too much on mild steel. If it was chromoly, it would be necessary for sure. I took my time for proper cooling. You can see in the haz zones there aren't any weld much over an inch or two.


Most of the weld kits for trailing arms don't specify any stress relief on mild.


Maybe a metal head like @WARRIORWELDING, @Mac5005 can chime in.

Matt
 
I always wonder about stress, since when I was parting the original upnover Jeep, I sold the cage out of it. When I cut the tube coming down off the b pillar, (the guy wasn't going to use that part) When I cut nearly through it, it jumped out about 6", took out my blade in the process.
 
Shouldn't be too much on mild steel. If it was chromoly, it would be necessary for sure. I took my time for proper cooling. You can see in the haz zones there aren't any weld much over an inch or two.


Most of the weld kits for trailing arms don't specify any stress relief on mild.


Maybe a metal head like @WARRIORWELDING, @Mac5005 can chime in.

Matt


Awesome work Matt. I've definitely been following along, and love every update.

Here are my thoughts on above.

The required temperature and cooling methods are expensive and labor intensive. To get any benefit from post weld heat treatment, it is critical to not only heat to the proper temp, but also cool as a specified rate. If done incorrectly, you can easily do more harm than good.

The normal temp range for stress relieving mild steel through post weld heat treatment is anywhere from 700-1000 deg C, and a soak for 3-4 hours.

This is above what most powder ovens are capable of, and is exactly why the powder coating process. doesn't typically affect the parts metallurgy.

If you could get an engineer to spec out the process for the thickness and material used, it would be great to have it done, but i also think that cost would far outweigh the benefit.

Looking at all the pics, And knowing matts attention to detail, I know the fit up and prep on all the pieces was perfect.

This ensures the resultant stress are as low as possible after the weld cools and shrinks.

The other consideration is that the trailing arms are of significant thickness material and have adequate thickness in each plane through the cross section. This counteracts the shrink experienced from welding.

For those following along, the residual stress is from all the shrinking of all the welds in all the different planes.

A better more practical and cheap way to keep residual stress down in an assembled and welded part, is to ensure that the base metal, within .5" from edge of HAZ, stays below 400 degrees F. This ensures that the weld time is short enough so that the HAZ size and temp don't get crazy out of control.

To add to that, would be to practice your weld technique on an identical joint and destroy it to test the strength.

The benefit from a quality weld technique and proper puddle manipulation is far greater than any PWHT and stress relieving, as far as bang for the buck goes.

From what I see, matts welds look great, and the HAZ looks fine.

If it were a no holes barred race car, with an unlimited budget, then the arms would most likely be 4340, and PWHT would be mandatory.


Here is a good link that offers a basic explanation:

Heat treatment of welded joints - Part 1 - Job Knowledge 114

I am curious to hear thoughts from @WARRIORWELDING @MarsFab and @stinkbomb.
 
This part is highly confined. All of the layers and welds will have certain mechanical factors and related weld stresses. With the design they look like each would cancel or actually reinforce the part. Its not a high alloy so relieving any forces are not a huge deal anyway. Normalizing haz generally falls into steels and alloys that harden or loose ductility in heat cooling cycles. All metals pull when welding, Chip your experience was from more of the length of the member from the weld zone. It also being in general a thin wall tube with a weld profile that was most likely as big or bigger than the wall thickness makes it worse. So a full round weld and joint design will cause quite a bit of mechanical tension or pull on the welded side. Long lever more leverage kinda thing. I'm no engineer but those arms are beef cake. Only weakness I spot is a complete shear at the hiem or joint thread. But that's going to require a brutal perpendicular force.

Ha, Mac brought the tech......and spot on.
Hey Mac, I always repeat time on part at school. Hot enough to weld and weld with efficient speed. Heat soak is you enemy and time on part kills materials and profit.
 
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I always wonder about stress, since when I was parting the original upnover Jeep, I sold the cage out of it. When I cut the tube coming down off the b pillar, (the guy wasn't going to use that part) When I cut nearly through it, it jumped out about 6", took out my blade in the process.
Lol. This didn't surprise me a bit chip. I remember the ol jeep, and how it looked before we put it back together on #2. As much as that frame had been repaired, and twisted, I'm amazed it didn't jump off the jeep and give you a permanent jungle gym in the yard!

Matt
 
Time to get some shocks mounted!

Number 2 done, only 10 hrs on this one. 30 total, from first cut to completion. Not counting heims or labor, less than $75 in materials...save some cha- ching over buying kit. Just loss of time. [emoji481]

Plus I choose the motion ratio[emoji12]


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Matt
 
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