90's throw back.....Manche build

Getting closer. Still have to put the aluminum in, weld, laminate, weld again, but I'm liking the end product- in my head anyway, lol.


Shock box with drain hole facing driveshaft.


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Mock link placed beside new arm


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Matt
 
I'm not up on trailing arm design but wouldn't it be better to have the bottom of the arm to be a flat straight line between the mounts and the boxing and shock bolt mount above the flat smooth bottom of the arm? For sliding over rocks, logs, Hillary supporters etc... easier.
 
Lol. There are a couple trains of thoughts, many ways to do it. If you run a straight bar with shocks mounted above the center line of the heims, you must run a wobble stopper at the chassis, or other shock mounted bushing accessory to keep the link form rolling sideways and damaging the shock: i.e. broken shaft or mounting post. With the lower shock mount below the center line of the heims, the spring preload well keep the link from rolling over. Both ways work and are successful in motorsports. I like the canoe style, but if i see they halt forward progress too much, I'll build something different, something like Will Carter built for Sam below, well proven.

This is how 74_chevota did it

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This is your traditional wobble stopper from kartek, $, plus the cost of the uniball.

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Stuntman Autoworks said:
I'm not up on trailing arm design but wouldn't it be better to have the bottom of the arm to be a flat straight line between the mounts and the boxing and shock bolt mount above the flat smooth bottom of the arm? For sliding over rocks, logs, Hillary supporters etc... easier.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately easy isn't in my vocabulary


Matt
 
mcutler said:
Lol. There are a couple trains of thoughts, many ways to do it. If you run a straight bar with shocks mounted above the center line of the heims, you must run a wobble stopper at the chassis, or other shock mounted bushing accessory to keep the link form rolling sideways and damaging the shock: i.e. broken shaft or mounting post. With the lower shock mount below the center line of the heims, the spring preload well keep the link from rolling over. Both ways work and are successful in motorsports. I like the canoe style, but if i see they halt forward progress too much, I'll build something different, something like Will Carter built for Sam below, well proven.

This is how 74_chevota did it

21e4dba6ec3ebecc0fce04a0651280c0.jpg



This is your traditional wobble stopper from kartek, $, plus the cost of the uniball.

2b17f2ee9f315ebeb2c2fbd39d0c4b22.jpg






Unfortunately easy isn't in my vocabulary


Matt
Click to expand...
I did not think about the link wanting to twist, that's good info. Thanks
 
SPOA87YJ said:
Nice work going on here. Working in the measurement industry.....what does that arm weigh?! Just curious.
Click to expand...
Here ya go!

40" eye to eye. Roughly 33" of 2"x250. less than 1 sqft of 3/16 cr. Roughly 2 sqft 1/8 cr. All p&o.

Lighter than I imagined frankly, @ 33.6.

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This is a spare front link, 29.5" jamb to jamb of 2"x250, @ 17.6. And if I recollect, my 2" 7075 links that I put on the buggy to replace these were just a pound or two less.

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So overall, roughly a 35 lb gain over simply running 2"x250 dom links for the rear lowers. Since my uppers are only going to be 1.75x120 versus the 2" as previously on the buggy, I'd say it's a wash on the rear.


Matt
 
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