90's throw back.....Manche build

paradisePWoffrd said:
Gonna louver the hood to help the heat get out?
Click to expand...
I'm tossing around an idea or two, could be a naca, or some ss screen involved...

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Slow shop week, extra busy with my paying job, lol.


Did find a cooler and a place for it, also received my Mac's tire strap. Secured the hood prop on the inner fender, no rattles.

Also got the DSC adjusters on the shocks and a base shim pack tune installed last night and today. Still have to make mounting tabs for the reservoirs.

f429a406ec3bfe88963fc5293c000674.jpg



f97ccfbcc38a126a52d25ba34bf3557b.jpg



ea07b8be3a53abad74c0dd95be8d4215.jpg



28f900eba96b7be66c70f4da0776b46e.jpg



b37587d6458c06e19d05bccd1faafd22.jpg



ac8deab1d1603274f7cf1a84b5b86581.jpg



77d844f6b64b8dbb79bae309a8637227.jpg



cbc7b01539f2e476c533e4b164b9f7aa.jpg


Matt
 
mcutler said:
Slow shop week, extra busy with my paying job, lol.


Did find a cooler and a place for it, also received my Mac's tire strap. Secured the hood prop on the inner fender, no rattles.

Also got the DSC adjusters on the shocks and a base shim pack tune installed last night and today. Still have to make mounting tabs for the reservoirs.

f429a406ec3bfe88963fc5293c000674.jpg



f97ccfbcc38a126a52d25ba34bf3557b.jpg



ea07b8be3a53abad74c0dd95be8d4215.jpg



28f900eba96b7be66c70f4da0776b46e.jpg



b37587d6458c06e19d05bccd1faafd22.jpg



ac8deab1d1603274f7cf1a84b5b86581.jpg



77d844f6b64b8dbb79bae309a8637227.jpg



cbc7b01539f2e476c533e4b164b9f7aa.jpg


Matt
Click to expand...

Do you have a book of shock shim stacks you've used in the past with wheel base and corner weights? You just seem like the type that writes shock tunes down lol
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Do you have a book of shock shim stacks you've used in the past with wheel base and corner weights? You just seem like the type that writes shock tunes down lol
Click to expand...
Yes, lol that'd be me, but have only tuned my own stuff so far, and also had a tuning day with Wayne at Fox couple years ago. No comprehensive list of my own. Ryan @ Accutune offroad, @TRD, has logged a pretty conclusive library of tunes that work for different rigs.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
mcutler said:
Yes, lol that'd be me, but have only tuned my own stuff so far, and also had a tuning day with Wayne at Fox couple years ago. No comprehensive list of my own. Ryan @ Accutune offroad, @TRD, has logged a pretty conclusive library of tunes that work for different rigs.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I tuned a friends front FOAs back in Cali, didn't write anything down. I know when I go to coilovers on the jeep I will be writing it down. Setup something light, then really stiff and just keep bouncing a little bit in between. I compared it to bracketing when calling in mortars in the Army, lol.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
I tuned a friends front FOAs back in Cali, didn't write anything down. I know when I go to coilovers on the jeep I will be writing it down. Setup something light, then really stiff and just keep bouncing a little bit in between. I compared it to bracketing when calling in mortars in the Army, lol.
Click to expand...
That's basically how I learned and was taught. Make big changes first to see what's close or not, then make the smaller changes.

For the front I'm using my starting tune from the copper crawler (same on all for corners on it). They both have similar corner weights, front to rear bias and 1:1 ratio, but the manche has a lighter unsprung mass. It should be real close, especially with the adjustability of the DSC. I'm valving a little stiff for bigger air/ hits, and higher speed.

The rear is a different story with the motion ratio of tailing arms. I spoke with Wayne and Ryan for opinions. I stacked it in the middle between them. I'm sure the rears will need some additional tuning aside from the DSC adjustability. I'm looking forward to the learning curve on the rear.

Spring rates are close now, front should only need a slightly lighter top spring, most of the front end weight is already there, I have slightly negative pre load there now. The rear is probably dead on once I finish the interior and storage box and make it trail ready with tools and spares. It has a couple inches of negative pre load at the moment. (I have about 3 more pairs of springs in my inventory, so I shouldn't need to buy anymore. )

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
I tuned a friends front FOAs back in Cali, didn't write anything down. I know when I go to coilovers on the jeep I will be writing it down. Setup something light, then really stiff and just keep bouncing a little bit in between. I compared it to bracketing when calling in mortars in the Army, lol.
Click to expand...
From the factory (fox anyway) they will come light on compression and stiffer on rebound. Anywhere from 50/70 (on my used pair I bought ) to 60/40 (on the new pair I bought).

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
mcutler said:
That's basically how I learned and was taught. Make big changes first to see what's close or not, then make the smaller changes.

For the front I'm using my starting tune from the copper crawler (same on all for corners on it). They both have similar corner weights, front to rear bias and 1:1 ratio, but the manche has a lighter unsprung mass. It should be real close, especially with the adjustability of the DSC. I'm valving a little stiff for bigger air/ hits, and higher speed.

The rear is a different story with the motion ratio of tailing arms. I spoke with Wayne and Ryan for opinions. I stacked it in the middle between them. I'm sure the rears will need some additional tuning aside from the DSC adjustability. I'm looking forward to the learning curve on the rear.

Spring rates are close now, front should only need a slightly lighter top spring, most of the front end weight is already there, I have slightly negative pre load there now. The rear is probably dead on once I finish the interior and storage box and make it trail ready with tools and spares. It has a couple inches of negative pre load at the moment. (I have about 3 more pairs of springs in my inventory, so I shouldn't need to buy anymore. )

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah I had Wayne calculate the springs for him. I was slightly off following the pirate thread. The shop that set his stuff up royally messed up. Full droop his front spring unseated 3" I had to replace all the seals, dual rate slider and stopper.

And luckily I'll be just doing 1:1 ratios for the jeeps but I'm sure it'll be weird bc minimal changes are magnified with the motion ratio of the trailing arms. But it's gonna be so awww when you have it dialed in dude.
 
Sorry for lack of updates of recent.


Real life has me rolling past couple weeks. 2 work trucks, 2 replacement engines, son's Honda accord-currently putting second of two engines in this week. And icing on the cake... cracked a rib working on one of my f450 work trucks while replacing the motor... Not fun.

On a good note, attending a two day tig welding seminar (30 participants) this weekend with true master Michael Furick, of DOG Fabrication and Design in Mooresville, N.C. Creator and proprietor of the MFurick gas cups for tig welding. Seminar is specializing in motorsports tig welding of steel and aluminum. Tubing and sheet primarily.


Anyway, hope to be back in my shop next week, not replacing motors, and working on the Comanche. Thanks for staying tuned guys.




Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
mcutler said:
Sorry for lack of updates of recent.


Real life has me rolling past couple weeks. 2 work trucks, 2 replacement engines, son's Honda accord-currently putting second of two engines in this week. And icing on the cake... cracked a rib working on one of my f450 work trucks while replacing the motor... Not fun.

On a good note, attending a two day tig welding seminar (30 participants) this weekend with true master Michael Furick, of DOG Fabrication and Design in Mooresville, N.C. Creator and proprietor of the MFurick gas cups for tig welding. Seminar is specializing in motorsports tig welding of steel and aluminum. Tubing and sheet primarily.


Anyway, hope to be back in my shop next week, not replacing motors, and working on the Comanche. Thanks for staying tuned guys.




Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Broke ribbs suck.....but now tell me how you found this here seminar?:D
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Broke ribbs suck.....but now tell me how you found this here seminar?:D
Click to expand...
I'm a recently new Instagram user, and started following him soon after I bought a fupa kit for my tig torch. He posted this class for newbies about a month back, and I made the cutoff on participants. Can't explain how excited I am to get professional instruction by one of the best in the biz!

I had posted this pic of the tailing arms I built for a Toyota using the fupa cup and he commented... so I'm hoping maybe he can turn me into a real tig welder, lol.

c8fe50a57e01e02185eb8ad0db5db8c4.jpg




Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
mcutler said:
Sorry for lack of updates of recent.


Real life has me rolling past couple weeks. 2 work trucks, 2 replacement engines, son's Honda accord-currently putting second of two engines in this week. And icing on the cake... cracked a rib working on one of my f450 work trucks while replacing the motor... Not fun.

On a good note, attending a two day tig welding seminar (30 participants) this weekend with true master Michael Furick, of DOG Fabrication and Design in Mooresville, N.C. Creator and proprietor of the MFurick gas cups for tig welding. Seminar is specializing in motorsports tig welding of steel and aluminum. Tubing and sheet primarily.


Anyway, hope to be back in my shop next week, not replacing motors, and working on the Comanche. Thanks for staying tuned guys.




Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Some people will always find an excuse not to finish a project! but then some people will find four or five! LOL
 
... finally a little bit of regular shop time today... just a little... so I did some little stuff that I could complete in little time... every little bit helps...

...front shock reservoir tabs made and finished...

...factory hood latch cable rerouted, ran through firewall and temporarily mounted in kick panel til pedals are hung...


... air filter elbow installed and filter attached...

...little stuff...






c8e678dfe079d9f029a723d876bf98eb.jpg



e90013e7cfaea40b7760cefe0440656b.jpg



bf1e6d872b84428e0d734c8090ba3f6e.jpg



162813914a4620ec84d0d79de6f9fe86.jpg



7708eee9fc6faa14632c6d4780ba8fc1.jpg



8482ab82039e1c7fb5cccb0919a34024.jpg



9088a5536dd95061682d1fcaa19744a5.jpg



3ba1bb869fa2b020883111e10050998a.jpg



bfc8765f338163afa0c6e6ac12ec34b7.jpg


Matt
 
On the trailer,
9-20-17,
Correct?
 
Paul said:
On the trailer,
9-20-17,
Correct?
Click to expand...
If I can get through the next work week equipment wise trouble free...it will be a sleepless thrash fest for a month...[emoji26]

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
mcutler said:
If I can get through the next work week equipment wise trouble free...it will be a sleepless thrash fest for a month...[emoji26]

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Me and Shane are cooking...
 
Random question that may be dumb one... I see people mount resis for shocks/coils in the engine compartment often. Isn't there any risk of heat soaking them?
 
99JeepXJ said:
Random question that may be dumb one... I see people mount resis for shocks/coils in the engine compartment often. Isn't there any risk of heat soaking them?
Click to expand...
I'm sure it's a possibility, but I would venture that the heat produced in the shock itself is probably pretty similar to that which it would soak from the engine. Frankly I don't recall any discussion about under hood placement in all my readings. Maybe Ryan @Accutuneoffroad would have some input on that.

Additionally, there will be some hood venting soon near the cowl for venting heat and cooler intake charge...

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Mounting them in an area with more direct airflow will only have a marginal difference in performance if any IMO. The oil inside the shock will cause more heat than any amount of heat that the resi body picks up from the engine.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I'm sure since it's a common mounting area this was already determined but wanted to hear it anyway! Loving this build
 
Back
Top