90's throw back.....Manche build

boatedwagon said:
I'm putting together one of their first gen ibex buggies now. He has all his ducks in a row there at Goatbuilt and top notch products tooView attachment 254994
Click to expand...
Yep, Drew is the man. Called him on the fly last week, to get some assistance on figuring out the wiring on a Walbro TU434HP factory replacement gm in tank pump, (with the 255lph motor), using his fuel plate and cell.

He called me promptly, was very eager to help, and even had pulled up the instructions on my gauges to help me get it ironed out, before I could even find my instructions, lol. Even went and pulled his own stock, off the shelves, to lay hands on for himself so we could get a solution.

Also the techline at glowshift gauges has top notch service, they also were extremely helpful in figuring a couple things out.

You can never go wrong with goatbuilt. Thanks Drew!

If/ when I build again, I will use more of his products.

Matt

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
farmboy said:
patiently waiting for the burnout video...
Click to expand...
Me too....

Wiring nearly done (battery cables left to do), plumbing done, drivetrain ready, except for mounting pillow block. Going to do the rear firewall before I crank it, cuz I'm not trying to lift that cell out after I've put fuel in it...
shawn said:
Your tag's expired.



:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
... and it's fictitious [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Depending on what year y'all ole timers were born, I bet I got a licence plate in accordance. :smokin:
 
ghost said:
If you have a SC plate from 68 I'm interested.....
Click to expand...
F/r matching set :D
Edit* 66, 71 72 are the only ones I have left. Dangit
 
Last edited:
Made a trip to SRI in Mooresville today. Looking to make a step up in safety for my passengers and myself. With having a closed cab and the engine so closely confined; fire is my biggest fear. So I decided to spend a few extra coin for a fire suppression system with 2 nozzles to do work.

Also, I didn't realize they had a used/consignment warehouse with gobs of NASCAR parts. Plumbing, brakes, carbon fiber, heat shielding, reservoirs, dry sumps, headers, rear ends, drop outs, large and small sway bars and arms of all types of (even the giant hollow 37 spline units) , you name it. If you catch an hour or two to kill, you should check it out.

I also snatched up some big money heat shielding for pennies on the dollar, they have shelves of it...



3f8c7957158d2a755885c0bde5356909.jpg


Matt
 
mcutler said:
Made a trip to SRI in Mooresville today. Looking to make a step up in safety for my passengers and myself. With having a closed cab and the engine so closely confined; fire is my biggest fear. So I decided to spend a few extra coin for a fire suppression system with 2 nozzles to do work.

Also, I didn't realize they had a used/consignment warehouse with gobs of NASCAR parts. Plumbing, brakes, carbon fiber, heat shielding, reservoirs, dry sumps, headers, rear ends, drop outs, large and small sway bars and arms of all types of (even the giant hollow 37 spline units) , you name it. If you catch an hour or two to kill, you should check it out.

I also snatched up some big money heat shielding for pennies on the dollar, they have shelves of it...



3f8c7957158d2a755885c0bde5356909.jpg


Matt
Click to expand...


Hendrix also has a “raced parts” division just for this
 
Mac5005 said:
Hendrix also has a “raced parts” division just for this
Click to expand...
I had seen a couple online stores in the past, but I love this, walk - in and peruse the riches' toss outs. Saw tags with Childress, petty, DEI, haas, etc. Could have gotten the suppression kit all used at half price, but opted for new with safety.

Millions of dollars of stuff that has a tremendous amount of life yet.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I love going in there! They have the biggest selection I have seen in the area. I get all my heat shielding there, spal electric fans for pennies on the dollar, brake calipers, rotors, radiators, just about anything.
 
Wiring and plumbing are 99.2% complete.

Plumbing just needs to be dropped from mounts for final welding and leak tested, and also plumb the fire suppression kit, and heater...

Left to do; make led alterations to stock front markers and signals then weatherpack, rear stock bed taillights weatherpack pigtails to new chassis harness, mount dome light, indicator lights in dash for turn, hi beam, and check engine...

Maybe 96.2%....

Damn, I'm running out of room...

All circuits are on go, except for the hazard.... haven't chased down the short yet.

Mechanical is 96.3 % done.
Mount carrier bearing, tighten driveshafts, torque converter bolts, maybe a little heat shielding...

Fabrication is down to interior, harnesses, rear firewall, plate and weld the cab A-pillars, spare driveshaft mount, mount extinguishers, hinge toolbox, install windshield, mod inner fenders for wiring clearances, mod door pins for quick removal...

Shit this is getting depressing... not really


Been scuffing and oiling as I go...




6834e0abacca0fc36cb50260ab6420ed.jpg



ea2475f67eba5d3765d16f9a7927ac61.jpg



8abef4216846aba472b351fb1fbb682b.jpg



06b0287487122c5a7ec04dea40fe6bd9.jpg



c8f9b54afc2fe41c598ef4a396938162.jpg



4c20a8d57690991cd54e4560c6c95452.jpg



784182796f2e151d7d95f334d3077b9f.jpg



e3668ec5a64304cd73fd128cf7e1aa80.jpg



213acf4b3d7b7f12f8e6b4809f765a3d.jpg


Matt
 
Tidying up a few things, getting closer to cranking.

Putting some fire sleeve over pump line to orbital, and fire sleeve and reflective insulator over fuel line (to prevent vapor lock) around the engine.

You can also see the boots over the plugs and 1400° wire covering entire length of plug wires.

ccb782353278c6b39c79e7b2266a6e6a.jpg


b5fbd60c252a50acbff925a769a73d4b.jpg



b58e3362790c7f5a02b57656b077ca43.jpg




Leak testing the radiator and reservoirs, couple small pinholes to weld over.


96d56da99f5bf814be2e2ebbcc64e4e9.jpg


Using the Bomber alternator relocation bracket for LS motors; it requires some clearancing of the back of the alternator. This bracket remains from the buggy, but I was using the premier power welder alternator then, the two on the left are stock cs130's (90 amp) thatt I pulled out of my core pile from work, the last on right is a Powermaster 140 amp; now have two spares in the camp box, as well as new spare Psc N-pump (and pulley), spare water pump (already tapped for AN fittings at heater ports, temp sender, and welded fitting for upper port), spare pillow block, spare idler, belt, driveshaft, spare low pinion Currie 9+ dropout third member 5.43 and spooled, 35 spline 300m stub shaft, and of course tires...

e29258668f3ca7679191a91ac4e073ef.jpg


No pic, but I've also completed crankcase ventilation- both clean and dirty side- in the 3 sides and down fashion and vented to atmosphere.... therefore much less oil can get to the top of the valve covers or intake, in case of a rollover.

Matt
 
Last edited:
Is it sad that your spares list is of better quality than my actual rig?o_O
 
More marks off the list...



Pillow block done, @tomwoodsdriveshafts cycled and clearing. No clearancing necessary on any 1350 yokes [emoji106].

5a1ba5854bd80b7c33ad0aa01f4ce004.jpg



b1c1262e6651d0eeefc9405f4e042875.jpg



More fire sleeving and heat shielding completed. Most of this shielding was repurposed... robbed off a super duty I just scrapped.

f3097985f4a957f12a9f2e180d8e44b6.jpg



7d5c266169010b2417b0143b34aae433.jpg



Crankcase ventilation hung and routed under the bridge, hidden by the reservoirs as well. Also notice the tubing for washer fluid...[emoji108]

New Powermaster 140 alternator and belt installed.


f7a5bd975e31c75711904dbf56e635fd.jpg



Matt


Note: 3/8 rubber fuel line makes an excellent abrasion resistant cover for 3/8 hardline...
 
Last edited:
Does that carrier bearing have a set screw to lock the midshaft yoke in place? Also, is that a std cast style carrier, or something forged? I dont see your belly pan moving enough to matter, but any concerns with it breaking?
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Does that carrier bearing have a set screw to lock the midshaft yoke in place? Also, is that a std cast style carrier, or something forged? I dont see your belly pan moving enough to matter, but any concerns with it breaking?
Click to expand...
Yes, two set screws and slips on both ends. I've ran this exact setup for years in two previous rigs. Zero issues. Always carried a spare pillow block that I've never used. Never loosened a set screw. Key is good operating angles with sufficient spline engagement and frequent greasing, so that everything cycles correctly.

I know there is a place for the double ended yoke bearings and they serve many people well. But I design around these parameters so that I won't need it.

The mega hi 9 certainly helps out with the angles

Zero concerns.
 
mcutler said:
Yes, two set screws and slips on both ends. I've ran this exact setup for years in two previous rigs. Zero issues. Always carried a spare pillow block that I've never used. Never loosened a set screw. Key is good operating angles with sufficient spline engagement and frequent greasing, so that everything cycles correctly.

I know there is a place for the double ended yoke bearings and they serve many people well. But I design around these parameters so that I won't need it.

The mega hi 9 certainly helps out with the angles

Zero concerns.
Click to expand...

I was thinking you ran a similar setup in your buggy. Most damage I have heard of had to do with huge impacts to the belly pan where the carrier was mounted.
 
Back
Top