90's throw back.....Manche build

paradisePWoffrd said:
I was thinking you ran a similar setup in your buggy. Most damage I have heard of had to do with huge impacts to the belly pan where the carrier was mounted.
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I think it's more of an issue with spline locking up, due to lack of maintenance, therefore turning the shaft into a column that with any significant movement from engine or obstacles, causes a breakage of the cast housing.

Post from Jesse Haines in this thread on pirate...

carrier bearing tech - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

He probably has more experience than the whole of nc4x4 on the subject.




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mcutler said:
Yessir, wiring is done except for the heater and dome. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

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Just curious, are you going to loom your wiring? I know there are multiple schools of thought on which way is better.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Just curious, are you going to loom your wiring? I know there are multiple schools of thought on which way is better.
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No, not at this time. Of course the engine is loomed from Mast, quite beautifully btw, along with areas that need heat protection. On the chassis side, I may later, just not a fan of split loom for trapping dirt inside. I feel this is easier to inspect and trouble shoot; and with the placement it shouldn't get super dirty, or damaged by debris.

Anything that isn't covered by the panel work or protected by structure will get loom; like on top of the fuel cell and around the headlight and taillight weather pack quick disconnects that are outside of the tin work. I'll use the self closing style loom there.

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mcutler said:
No, not at this time. Of course the engine is loomed from Mast, quite beautifully btw, along with areas that need heat protection. On the chassis side, I may later, just not a fan of split loom for trapping dirt inside. I feel this is easier to inspect and trouble shoot; and with the placement it shouldn't get super dirty, or damaged by debris.

Anything that isn't covered by the panel work or protected by structure will get loom; like on top of the fuel cell and around the headlight and taillight weather pack quick disconnects that are outside of the tin work. I'll use the self closing style loom there.

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I am not a fan of traditional loom myself for the same reasons. We have some mesh self-closing style at work that it nice, not sure how it would do to keep out dirt though. I tend to leave exposed for ease of troubleshooting, but loom makes visible wiring look much cleaner.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I am not a fan of traditional loom myself for the same reasons. We have some mesh self-closing style at work that it nice, not sure how it would do to keep out dirt though. I tend to leave exposed for ease of troubleshooting, but loom makes visible wiring look much cleaner.
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Yep, ill be using a textile type self closing with a steel wire; which does allow some dust in, but is quite abrasive resistant.

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But I also feel the exposed wire, when done well- and with the help of the ruffstuff zip tie tabs, looks equally as good. These are of course covered by the inner fenders...

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And these are totally hidden and quite protected by tubing, panels, and the spare tire. Nothing that contributes to the running condition of the truck is in a place of damage possibilities; it is all center mass of the truck, inside the inner frame rails and tunnel.

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I appreciate the name drop on those tabs. I was wondering where those things come from. Before I order some, do you buy all three sizes or have you found a “one size fits all” that covers the whole gambit?
 
BigSouth said:
I appreciate the name drop on those tabs. I was wondering where those things come from. Before I order some, do you buy all three sizes or have you found a “one size fits all” that covers the whole gambit?
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I bought 3 bags (10 per) of each size (90 pieces total), and when all done will have about 25 pieces left overall, will have none of the smallest size left. There will be zero zip ties around any tubing other than on the links. I did this so that when I am cleaning and scotch brightening/oiling the chassis over time, I won't have rust lines at all the zip ties.

The middle size will cover much applications, but I prefer all 3 to get a good secure hold on any combination of wires. Tighter the better so that vibration won't allow wear on the jacket. You could, and I may, wrap a couple wraps of tape at each tab for peace of mind, the tabs have not been run through a tumbler, so the edges are pretty square.

Fortunately with the frequent cleaning this chassis will receive, everything will be inspected much more often than otherwise.

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mcutler said:
I did this so that when I am cleaning and scotch brightening/oiling the chassis over time, I won't have rust lines at all the zip ties.



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So are you not going to paint the bare metal? I've learned a lot from your build so educate me one more time please.....
 
ghost said:
So are you not going to paint the bare metal? I've learned a lot from your build so educate me one more time please.....
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No. It may happen down the road, but not for now. Have a couple products going to try on the bare metal, I'll give some reviews over time.

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BRUISER said:
Koh 2018?

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Just as a spectator. To be race ready with safety gear and fees etc, my budget will be bye bye, so either go spectate, or stay home. Maybe 2019.

Plans to wheel while there, pre run with a team or two, possibly pit.

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mcutler said:
Just as a spectator. To be race ready with safety gear and fees etc, my budget will be bye bye, so either go spectate, or stay home. Maybe 2019.

Plans to wheel while there, pre run with a team or two, possibly pit.

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So you are going to bring it out there?

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mcutler said:
Yes, barring no catastrophes between now and then.

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I am hoping to be there again.

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Finally the last piece of the plumbing puzzle is in place and ready to accept some hoses. Reservoir, expansion tank, and washer fluid tank are now leak free and ready to have some juice. Plumbing 99.89%, make two hoses and done!


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I had to "make" the bulkhead for the heater hoses. Billet specialties advertised it as 5/8 barb to -10 AN, well the threads were correct but zero taper after them to accept the female hose fitting. So I ordered two more -10 weld bungs and added them to the bulkhead..smh.

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Rear center firewall is done. Had to make it in two pieces, no way to get it in place otherwise.

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Rear side panels will be done tonight. Ready for floor boards...

... and the spare driveshaft has a home

Matt
 
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