sammi_davis
Sawzall Surgeon
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
- Location
- Eden N.C.
Where did the steering wheel cover come from? Looks much nicer than the slip on version.
A TJ named Corn Squeeze 🌽
- Thread starter ponykilr
- Start date
It is a slip on, thin, neoprene cover I got at WM for like $7.
I take upholstery thread (heavy 100% nylon) and stitch them on like the factory cover is. This is the 3rd one I’ve done. I hate a cover that slips around, once you stitch these in place they don’t slip.
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
Damn Martha Stewart...I got 3 you can come do for me
Nothing much to report.
Replaced the speakers. Installed trailer harness.
It now runs nice and cool at about 190 or so, no matter idling, backroads, mountain roads or hwy. Tstat FTW.
It maintains speed better on backroad hills and is more responsive.
Replaced the speakers. Installed trailer harness.
It now runs nice and cool at about 190 or so, no matter idling, backroads, mountain roads or hwy. Tstat FTW.
It maintains speed better on backroad hills and is more responsive.
Measured for bumpstops. Rear is good, front needs 2”. Ordered Rubicon Express front lower 2” kit, comes with pads that have a countersunk hole and self tapping bolts. Easier than hockey pucks.
I realized that the rear brake hose runs down the left upper link along with the locker hose and harness so only front need the extended hoses.
I see a little ATF slung from the Tcase rear output so I have a seal coming.
@Jody Treadway I measure 5v at the cruise on/off switch on one of the 2 wires. The switch is switching according to my multi-meter (random ohm readings but change when pressed) and I see resistors on the back of the switch. I assume depending on what button is pressed, a different signal is sent back to the PCM.
Would a good next step be to secure a scan tool somehow and see if the PCM shows the switch as working? If it doesn’t I would think clock spring. If it does maybe cruise servo.
I realized that the rear brake hose runs down the left upper link along with the locker hose and harness so only front need the extended hoses.
I see a little ATF slung from the Tcase rear output so I have a seal coming.
@Jody Treadway I measure 5v at the cruise on/off switch on one of the 2 wires. The switch is switching according to my multi-meter (random ohm readings but change when pressed) and I see resistors on the back of the switch. I assume depending on what button is pressed, a different signal is sent back to the PCM.
Would a good next step be to secure a scan tool somehow and see if the PCM shows the switch as working? If it doesn’t I would think clock spring. If it does maybe cruise servo.
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- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Hendersonville, NC
You need to use a scan tool back and tell you if the PCM is seeing the cruise control request. If it is not seeing the request you very likely have a bad clock spring.
Brake hoses for the front are here. I also have 3” front lower bumpstops and 1” rear upper cup spacers.
I added an inch to what I needed so when I switch to 35s I have the room. It should have 5”+ up and more down.
As an occasional wheeler, I don’t want any more lift. It drives so nice and has zero bumpsteer or DW. Being able to cruise the parkway and backroads without drama are more important than ultimate wheel travel and I won’t be happy until it has 35s.
I’ll cut the front 3” lower bumps to 2” to use for now and save the extra inch for use later. Won’t install the rear til later.
Going to let @Chris_Keziah put 4:88s in it by fall.
I added an inch to what I needed so when I switch to 35s I have the room. It should have 5”+ up and more down.
As an occasional wheeler, I don’t want any more lift. It drives so nice and has zero bumpsteer or DW. Being able to cruise the parkway and backroads without drama are more important than ultimate wheel travel and I won’t be happy until it has 35s.
I’ll cut the front 3” lower bumps to 2” to use for now and save the extra inch for use later. Won’t install the rear til later.
Going to let @Chris_Keziah put 4:88s in it by fall.
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Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
I approve of this message
OK, have some questions for the brain trust.
My next plans for maybe this late fall/winter would be a 1.25 BL and 1” MML.
No real problems with this, I will do a cable Tcase shifter kit at the same time or possibly before.
Now to the questions.
I have a slight vibe already at times. The rear shaft is the factory flange type for the 241OR without a CV. With the springs and stock arms the pinion is pointed up a little compared to the output and this seems to be where my vibes are coming from.
It isn’t a terrible vibration but it is there and is cyclic. This would get better maybe with a MML but worse I’m sure with the following eventual tummy tuck.
Once I am ready for the TT, is the best answer to have Oliver’s add a CV to my shaft and then tilt the pinion up with adjustable uppers (eventually all arms will be replaced or maybe the full long arm treatment)?
I like to plan things a little ahead and look for holes long before I buy parts.
My next plans for maybe this late fall/winter would be a 1.25 BL and 1” MML.
No real problems with this, I will do a cable Tcase shifter kit at the same time or possibly before.
Now to the questions.
I have a slight vibe already at times. The rear shaft is the factory flange type for the 241OR without a CV. With the springs and stock arms the pinion is pointed up a little compared to the output and this seems to be where my vibes are coming from.
It isn’t a terrible vibration but it is there and is cyclic. This would get better maybe with a MML but worse I’m sure with the following eventual tummy tuck.
Once I am ready for the TT, is the best answer to have Oliver’s add a CV to my shaft and then tilt the pinion up with adjustable uppers (eventually all arms will be replaced or maybe the full long arm treatment)?
I like to plan things a little ahead and look for holes long before I buy parts.
willness33
Here for the memes
- Joined
- May 3, 2005
- Location
- Alexis,NC
This
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
Yes
ECGS uppers......Reach out to @Chris_Keziah and see when you can get a quickie appointment with him and run down to his shop one evening (if he's willing) and get the rear adjusted. Then discuss the next steps. Be careful though...his ass will have you talked into an LS swap and tons if you aren't strong in your intent
I went with the Barnes 1" skid, Brown dog MM lift, 1.25 BL and at the time Ironman4x4 arms. Worked great for what it was.
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Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
I'll drop a reply later on today when I'm not as tied up.
So you’re saying tilt the axle down for now until new shaft and the BL/MML?
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
If you're not in the position to get upper and lower adjustable control arms to dial it in perfectly....then I (personally) would at LEAST get adjustable uppers so you have SOME sort of adjustment. But I'm no expert. I just stayed at a Po White Boy rental in Harlan with a few and tried to pick up as much as I could thru osmosis and contact high
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
You forgot didntcha
Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
Na, got off work then proceeded to make 3 phone calls, cook dinner then worked in my shop till 11.
You definitely won't regret a cable shifter, however just make sure it's adjusted properly. If it's not you'll wear out the shift fork pads and have issues with it staying in gear(s).
As for the rear driveline I would just go ahead and go the cv route. Like @CasterTroy said you'll still need adjustable uppers, lowers would be a nice touch as well to dial the pinion angle in. Likely could help your current vibration out a bit but a cv is the better option so you can get that pinion out of the dirt.
Not sure what "long arms" you're going to do but imo you're better off 4 linking it than an off the shelf long arm.
Got the frame and hoist set up for the top. Makes it an easy one man job. The rope is a 400lb strength 1/2” size. It runs up to a pulley, over to another pulley and down to the boat winch.
The mirrors I bought from Quadratrac for when the doors are off just never seemed right. The angle of the arms was wrong, the holes for the bolt were wrong and the arms were too long. The brackets per the instructions put them too low. They were the correct pattern to work on a set of holes higher up.
I studied on it for a while and decided to make them like I wanted. So I just cut them off right after the bend, set them at the right angle (plumb) and drilled new holes for the bolt. The fact the arms are shorter and at a good spot, are at a good height and angle made all the difference.
First time in a good bit I had the top off.
The mirrors I bought from Quadratrac for when the doors are off just never seemed right. The angle of the arms was wrong, the holes for the bolt were wrong and the arms were too long. The brackets per the instructions put them too low. They were the correct pattern to work on a set of holes higher up.
I studied on it for a while and decided to make them like I wanted. So I just cut them off right after the bend, set them at the right angle (plumb) and drilled new holes for the bolt. The fact the arms are shorter and at a good spot, are at a good height and angle made all the difference.
First time in a good bit I had the top off.