....Black Sheep....

49willys said:
We got in a rush today, left the fuel cell and the shell. :stupid:
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Sorry about that, I was on a tight schedule yesterday and definitely hurrying. I wish we could have hung out a while, I enjoy talking to you and your dad. Hope to see you at the CTB Christmas party!
 
I've had several setups. 4.7 and 2.28 little over kill but nice. 2.28 and 2.28 dual by far my favorite with the twin stick rear case. And now just a single 4.7 case. Works great but I loved having the front case to run around 90% of the time in 2w low front case. I may go back to the dual 2.28 in the future.

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cgm147 said:
I've had several setups. 4.7 and 2.28 little over kill but nice. 2.28 and 2.28 dual by far my favorite with the twin stick rear case. And now just a single 4.7 case. Works great but I loved having the front case to run around 90% of the time in 2w low front case. I may go back to the dual 2.28 in the future.

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This.

If I had to put together another 38" tire and under sized Toyota crawler, duals with stock gears are your best bang for the buck. I liked having 4.7's but really the only time they got used was when I needed to put a tire in a very specific place. 2nd gear double low is the ticket for the southeast wheelspin obstacles.
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions, especially from those who have real world experience with what works and what doesn’t! I appreciate it!
So...to get this “build” thread back on track, here is my plan (and a lot of CTB guys know what I think about plans!:D)....

-sand blast frame (done, I’ll post pic later)
-repair and plate frame (suggestions on where to plate are welcome)
-build each drive train component as money allows.
-assemble a rolling chassis
-mate a cool ass cab to the chassis


My tenative specs :
-leaf sprung
-37s
-toyota axles
-5.29 gears (because I want to drive it on road as well as trail)
-dual cases. 2.28/4.7
-w56 5speed
-22re engine

In the next few weeks I plan to have the frame complete and painted. After that will be the dual cases (i already have some of the parts. After that I’m done for a few months because money and because Santa for momma and the kids!:D:beer:
 
To those that have offered advise about gearing from there experiences, I’m not blowing you guys off, but here is why I am going with the gear combo mentioned above.....
-5.29 because it will be driven on the road. If y’all think 4.88 with 37s on the road would work, and y’all have experience with that combo, let me know.
-2.28 front case , 4.7 main case. Here’s my thinking....I feel like I will use the 4.7 in the main case the most, because of my driving style (meticulous) (most of the time) and I can just run a higher gear in trans if needed.
Also I feel like that would leave the reduction case in 1:1 most of the time, hence less stress on the input of the main case.
-in the situation I need a lot of wheel speed,I can choose low in the front case and 1:1 in the main case.
- and I’ll prob never need double low around here, but it’s there.

If I’m totally off base here, y’all let me know. Thanks!
 
Nakoma said:
To those that have offered advise about gearing from there experiences, I’m not blowing you guys off, but here is why I am going with the gear combo mentioned above.....
-5.29 because it will be driven on the road. If y’all think 4.88 with 37s on the road would work, and y’all have experience with that combo, let me know.
-2.28 front case , 4.7 main case. Here’s my thinking....I feel like I will use the 4.7 in the main case the most, because of my driving style (meticulous) (most of the time) and I can just run a higher gear in trans if needed.
Also I feel like that would leave the reduction case in 1:1 most of the time, hence less stress on the input of the main case.
-in the situation I need a lot of wheel speed,I can choose low in the front case and 1:1 in the main case.
- and I’ll prob never need double low around here, but it’s there.

If I’m totally off base here, y’all let me know. Thanks!
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What's up bud...I'm running 4.88s with 37x12.5 PBRs and it does okay on the road, but I do wish I had 5.29s. I don't think I've ever actually put it in 5th gear come to think of it...even running out on i485 around here (doesn't happen much but had to run to the dealership once for a part and the 4Runner was the only vehicle available). I really don't like how it does from a dead stop and into 1st gear (clutch gets let out a little slower than usual to avoid a stall). Hopefully one day I'll actually ditch the 22re for that 3rz I keep dreaming about (which, by the way, have you considered instead of the 22re?).

I've also got a single 4.7 tcase and I've been totally fine with it. I personally don't see the need for duals in my rig at this point. If I need more wheel speed I just throw it in 3rd (and sometimes 4th if I'm really getting after it).

BTW - haven't forgotten about ya and still planning making my way up your way w/ a case of Corona. :beer:
 
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Picked up the frame today, had it sand blasted. Not in too bad of shape, it appears the back half has already been replaced once.
I think I’m going to replace all of the rear frame from where it was originally cut for the repair with 4x2 .250 wall....
The front half is in good shape.
 
You're Rockin it there!
 
Looks like the frame really isn't half bad! Kudos to you for getting it blasted before trying to work on it, you wouldn't believe the crusty rusty nasty gunk frames the install guys at my work have to deal with that would be so much easy to work on if they were blasted! For the back half, honestly I don't think .250 wall is necessary, 2x4x.188 should be sufficiently beefy and a lot easier to deal with in terms of moving pieces around building it. (.250 frame rails get heavy fast!) Especially since you (I assume) are going to be adding something in the way of a bed cage which will add more strength than a thicker wall or greater section height would add. Granted I build street rod frames and not 4wd frames but, our truck frames go under big engined fullsize street trucks and are most often 2x4x.188 for the back halves.

Really looking forward to watching your build progress!
 
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So...after having a few beers and looking over the frame the other night, I realized that there are very few mounts/brackets that I will be using on the frame, And the fact that it is not made to my standards...I have decided to build a frame. I am picking up my 2x4 3/16” tubing Saturday. I am probably getting in over my head, but what the hell! First question, looking at the frame from the side, would y’all keep the same profile, or change it up? (And why). I don’t have enough experience to think far enough down the road on the build to know whether or not to keep the factory profile. Keep in mind i am using factory axles with 3 link front and 4 link rear. I’ll ask about width later.
 
Nakoma said:
View attachment 281002 So...after having a few beers and looking over the frame the other night, I realized that there are very few mounts/brackets that I will be using on the frame, And the fact that it is not made to my standards...I have decided to build a frame. I am picking up my 2x4 3/16” tubing Saturday. I am probably getting in over my head, but what the hell! First question, looking at the frame from the side, would y’all keep the same profile, or change it up? (And why). I don’t have enough experience to think far enough down the road on the build to know whether or not to keep the factory profile. Keep in mind i am using factory axles with 3 link front and 4 link rear. I’ll ask about width later.
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This build keeps getting more and more interesting :popcorn:

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Nakoma said:
View attachment 281002 So...after having a few beers and looking over the frame the other night, I realized that there are very few mounts/brackets that I will be using on the frame, And the fact that it is not made to my standards...I have decided to build a frame. I am picking up my 2x4 3/16” tubing Saturday. I am probably getting in over my head, but what the hell! First question, looking at the frame from the side, would y’all keep the same profile, or change it up? (And why). I don’t have enough experience to think far enough down the road on the build to know whether or not to keep the factory profile. Keep in mind i am using factory axles with 3 link front and 4 link rear. I’ll ask about width later.
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You just opened a massive can of worms. But if I were starting from the ground up I'd build off a subframe. More than likely a goat built kit like @mcutler did on the Manche.
 
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