....Black Sheep....

Thanks to all for the advise on the frame. And I even threw out the idea of links. But I believe that @CasterTroy gave the best advise,which was KISS! That’s what I wanted this build to be all along. Yes, building a new frame was not in the plans. And is not simple.
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However, I found it silly to patch what I had and build around a weak foundation. So with that said I have started the frame build and I will make it to mimic the original. I will keep the factory width due to the fact I will run leaf springs. No more talk about links. (Yes I know this is the time to do it and they are superior to leafs). So here are a few pics of the frame build. I’ll have to take the sections over to my father in laws place next week and do the final welds. The 110 welder was good for the tact welds but not much more than that.
 
OK...I'm impressed!!!
Looks like a great start to a great plan!
OH! by the way....what's that green ride out by the tree line?
 
Ok.... the view from of the garage it almost looked like a old coupe.
Thought you might have had an extra project.
 
SNOWzuki said:
Thought you might have had an extra project.
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When we go pick up the red one, I'm gonna use the time I have with him trapped in my truck to talk him into turning THAT one into a turbo charged, rally-cross daily driver :huggy::driver:
 
l need to pick yalls brain. I am happy with how the side profile of the frame turned out. Now I am thinking about making the profile as looking down on the frame. (Horizontal bends). I would like the leave these bend out and keep the frame straight. If I do this the center to center of frame will be 29.5” wide all the way down. The factory width at the rear is 39.5” center to center. So with the frame 10” narrower in the rear I’d have to move the rear spring perches in 5” each. I feel like this would have a negative impact on the handling of the truck, but I don’t know. What do y’all thing about the rear of the frame being that much narrower? @87GMCJimmy do y’all deal with this stuff , and what’s your opinion?
 
Nakoma said:
l need to pick yalls brain. I am happy with how the side profile of the frame turned out. Now I am thinking about making the profile as looking down on the frame. (Horizontal bends). I would like the leave these bend out and keep the frame straight. If I do this the center to center of frame will be 29.5” wide all the way down. The factory width at the rear is 39.5” center to center. So with the frame 10” narrower in the rear I’d have to move the rear spring perches in 5” each. I feel like this would have a negative impact on the handling of the truck, but I don’t know. What do y’all thing about the rear of the frame being that much narrower? @87GMCJimmy do y’all deal with this stuff , and what’s your opinion?
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Moving the rear springs in that much will help articulation but it'll make the truck want to sway more too. Really depends on how far you can get the shocks outboard to counter act the springs. If it were me I use something like this from Ruffstuff to outboard the springs off the frame and keep it the way it is and outboard the some 14" shocks. You'll want the narrower frame when it comes time to package coilovers.
R1152-full.jpg
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Moving the rear springs in that much will help articulation but it'll make the truck want to sway more too. Really depends on how far you can get the shocks outboard to counter act the springs. If it were me I use something like this from Ruffstuff to outboard the springs off the frame and keep it the way it is and outboard the some 14" shocks. You'll want the narrower frame when it comes time to package coilovers.
R1152-full.jpg
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Thanks! That’s the info I’m after. It looks like I’ll be sticking to a straight narrow frame.
 
Those outriggers will get you an extra 2" on each side (4" total). Depending on how deep your pockets are and how well you can triangulate the cross bracing of the frame(to combat twist of the frame rails), these may also work.

Universal Shackle Flip Kit

Edit, these will only work for the rear of the leaf spring. The front will still need to be figured out.
 
As mentioned, with the narrow frame, I would build the spring mounts similar to this:

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It will help keep them from dragging on stuff. Also, you can set your ride height where you want, not based on how the springs settle.
 
Nakoma said:
l need to pick yalls brain. I am happy with how the side profile of the frame turned out. Now I am thinking about making the profile as looking down on the frame. (Horizontal bends). I would like the leave these bend out and keep the frame straight. If I do this the center to center of frame will be 29.5” wide all the way down. The factory width at the rear is 39.5” center to center. So with the frame 10” narrower in the rear I’d have to move the rear spring perches in 5” each. I feel like this would have a negative impact on the handling of the truck, but I don’t know. What do y’all thing about the rear of the frame being that much narrower? @87GMCJimmy do y’all deal with this stuff , and what’s your opinion?
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Sorry for the delay! Yes, we do a good bit of narrow vs wide frames, both by what vehicles they are and what tire and wheel package the customer wants. We run the coilovers and links inboard or outboard of the frame rails or even will "prostreet" a chassis with significantly narrower rear rails to afford space to tuck especially wide rear wheel and tire combos.

As you run a narrower suspension setup, you will get more sway as there is more leverage exerted on the suspension. An outboard suspension yields a more stable handling vehicle. That being said, I concur with the advice of running the frame narrow and outboarding the leaf springs from the frame for stability. Also, as said, that plan allows space to run outboarded coilovers when the time comes! ; )
 
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Frame progress....I have 3 temporary crossmembers tacted in place. The front and rear crossmembers are roughly where the axles will be.. a 107” wheelbase. In the pic with it on jack stands, that’s a 19.5” belly height. I will determine where the end of frame front and rear will be later. Both are long now. I will final weld everything once all of my brackets are in place. If I ever do this again, I will build a jig for sure, getting it level and square was a bitch.
 

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Not a problem at all, a little cleaner and easier to work around if internal, try to avoid vertical welds, diagonals will give more strength, less stress.
The frame looks awesome! Just checking in on progress. Wish I could have been at URE, Nasty stomach bug, I don't think I would have made it off the mountain with clean britches!
 
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