D-6

Okay so I know those Ultra 4 buggies are expensive but dayum how much are they?
 
ghost said:
Okay so I know those Ultra 4 buggies are expensive but dayum how much are they?
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The front diff alone is $11,000 plus shipping from Australia. $6,000 to $8,000 lower cost than the Tubeworks & Fortin diff's I checked out. I chose the Proformance Motorsport Aussie diff for better function & strength. Not because of the price difference.
 
Once you get past buying the IFS system, the price of building a complete car would fluctuate because they can be purpose built differently.
 
I've been watching rock bouncer events lately. They hit those climbs pretty hard. It's actually what inspired me to draw that honeycomb armor.
 
MetalCraftSolved said:
I've been watching rock bouncer events lately. They hit those climbs pretty hard. It's actually what inspired me to draw that honeycomb armor.
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While it would look great and probably hold up to a race just fine, $3k is quite spendy for, what I would consider, a wear item. Where I could see this working is if it was lined with UHMW or similar so the expensive item isn't the wear item. The aluminum was get chunked, scared, broken when hitting a large rock at any sort of high speed, which I assume this is intended for.
 
Bebop said:
Pro Racers make a living off of it.
So, enough.
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I assume they are making a lot of money off of product sales and sponsorships. I'm talking actual purse potential for top 5 finishes. Is that heavy into the 6 figures for a season, or just more for bragging rights and street credit?
 
Want to become a millionaire as a racer? Start with a billion. And all those other sayings about racing. These guys today that do it for a living have marketing partners and bonus structures. The vast majority do it out of pocket or have a successful business to lessen the hit on the wallet.

Top UTV builds are into the six figures now. 4400’s are into the 500k range. Purpose built rigs in every class that push the limits of the rules and Everyman affordability.
 
I would go far enough as to call it innovation. I'm feeling pretty lucky to actually be in a position to produce something like this. 7075 Aluminum retracts back to its original form after impact. I doubt it will get cut up more than anything a little TIG work, and sanding can fix. It's easy to drop, and it solves a pile of issues as far as getting the diff out, and on the floor. I would throw a strong guestimate out there, and say that it would never have to be replaced. Extreme repairs would probably involve a 1/4 inch of press work. I mean, you'd have to drop the whole weight of the car perfectly on the center of a steel basketball to get it to budge the least bit. I think it's a one in a thousand shot to deform it. The #1 thing I am most impressed with it about is how it's going to keep my bulkhead square during a crash or roll down a mountain. It has a lot of important things clamped in that can't move. That by itself may be worth the price.

Honeycomb armor 13.jpg
 
jeepinmatt said:
I assume they are making a lot of money off of product sales and sponsorships. I'm talking actual purse potential for top 5 finishes. Is that heavy into the 6 figures for a season, or just more for bragging rights and street credit?
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KOH payout is 6 figures.
KOH winning effort is more than the payout.

You don't make money in racing by winning. You make money by being a good billboard for your sponsors.

Edit : don't make me say what I didn't. Winning definitely makes you more visible as a billboard. But that's far from being the only way to make money when racing.
 
MetalCraftSolved said:
I would go far enough as to call it innovation. I'm feeling pretty lucky to actually be in a position to produce something like this. 7075 Aluminum retracts back to its original form after impact. I doubt it will get cut up more than anything a little TIG work, and sanding can fix. It's easy to drop, and it solves a pile of issues as far as getting the diff out, and on the floor. I would throw a strong guestimate out there, and say that it would never have to be replaced. Extreme repairs would probably involve a 1/4 inch of press work. I mean, you'd have to drop the whole weight of the car perfectly on the center of a steel basketball to get it to budge the least bit. I think it's a one in a thousand shot to deform it. The #1 thing I am most impressed with it about is how it's going to keep my bulkhead square during a crash or roll down a mountain. It has a lot of important things clamped in that can't move. That by itself may be worth the price.

View attachment 354625
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How much 7xxx series aluminum have you actually welded?

I see that being a pita to remove once smashed
 
Mac5005 said:
How much 7xxx series aluminum have you actually welded?

I see that being a pita to remove once smashed
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I was just thinking the same thing. Clearances already look tight at best.

chances are the driver will leave that skid on the first rock they try to drive over in the first race. The two clamps don’t look nearly strong enough to keep it in place and not from being peeled off.
 
Mac5005 said:
How much 7xxx series aluminum have you actually welded?

I see that being a pita to remove once smashed
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rockcity said:
I was just thinking the same thing. Clearances already look tight at best.

chances are the driver will leave that skid on the first rock they try to drive over in the first race. The two clamps don’t look nearly strong enough to keep it in place and not from being peeled off.
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Upward, forward, backward, and side to side force can't move it, or the tubing it holds. It has 3 half inch bolts holding it to the front of the bulkhead. I'm under the impression not much it's gonna fall onto can smash it. I don't see how on earth it could fall out if it's bolted in. Ya'll just told me 1/8 inch steel and UHMW would hold up. This is way stronger. Tell me where your coming from so I can understand better.
 
7 series aluminum. It's probably just like welding all of the other series aluminum. Just harder? 😂 I don't know. I've probably welded a pile of it.
 
MetalCraftSolved said:
7 series aluminum. It's probably just like welding all of the other series aluminum. Just harder? 😂 I don't know. I've probably welded a pile of it.
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@Mac5005 take that science of metals out of here.....


Or lack thereof!
 
I wonder how thick chassis powder coat is. Google say's it's 2.5 to 3 mil thick. Which I think is 0.0025 to 0.003 thousands thick.
 
MetalCraftSolved said:
I wonder how thick chassis powder coat is. Google say's it's 2.5 to 3 mil thick. Which I think is 0.0025 to 0.003 thousands thick.
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I would plan for at least .003-.005 which is only on the radius. If you have that piece hard coat anodized like you should thats another .003. Hopefully you not drawing any of this chassis that tight.
 
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