Do you have metal building...snow damage?

SHINTON said:
Hmm, timely discussion, was thinking of an el cheapo $??? carport style building for a "temp" outside workshop. Newer ones seem to have that A brace in the top and based on drkelly if you do the siding down each side they are stronger too? (and find out cost to do vertical siding versus horizontal) Not sure if this will take a $599-699-799 whatever to $999+++ etc!?

Do we have anyone in the industry that has a 'guy' in the Triad area? Trying to figure out how and where or if it will fit. (Will send pics when I can of my space)
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All these darn building come from 1 of 3 places in NC.
All are the same crap.
All farm the installation out to non english speaking subs of questionable legality.

I paid right at $1,100 for a 24x20 with 2' extra height(9' at the base), upgraded bracing, upgrade frame thicknesss, A frame style instead. I didnt elect for the vertical seams because while they do shed water/snow better they also are seemed away from the frame members...meaning over time any forces can cause the sheets of roofing to work against each other and the joining screws become a leak source as the holes are oblonged out and lose (is that torisional) rigidity
 
marty79 said:
Dang that's odd, all others next to it stood fine
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The design load from snow (not counting wind contribution) is about 10,000 pounds, assuming you're in central NC and not too far north. Does that tin shed look like it's capable of supporting 3 cars on the roof?
 
The manufacturers of them, at least all I saw when I was i the market, require a middle brace for all widths over 14'. That helps tremendously.
I'
 
Shit I have a 15’x15’ ezup tent that’s my garage,that held 16” we got lmao I’d check the framing if a metal roofs flexing on 12-20” of snow!!
 
Pics I took today, and I also found out our building is the same design/construction as the building that collapsed...

dc5ffdd09701a88f3822aaaab0ab9bf5.jpg

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The entire roof ended up falling in after the picture in the article I posted earlier was taken.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
t4rghost said:
Pics I took today, and I also found out our building is the same design/construction as the building that collapsed...
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Was it the "same" building when it was built, or was it the "same" building last week?
 
Ron said:
The manufacturers of them, at least all I saw when I was i the market, require a middle brace for all widths over 14'. That helps tremendously.
I'
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Yes but everyone cuts corners so much including my boss to pocket more (as if they're not making tons already) that these carports/buildings have no strength unless customer pays out the wahoo extra and they don't care either. Get it installed and get their money is all
 
marty79 said:
Yes but everyone cuts corners so much including my boss to pocket more (as if they're not making tons already) that these carports/buildings have no strength unless customer pays out the wahoo extra and they don't care either. Get it installed and get their money is all
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If they are cutting out bracing, which is a 18-24" piece of thin wall c channel...he is an idiot.
The first time a customer calls them on it and they have to make a return trip, they literally could have paid for thousands of those cheap thin braces.
 
Ron said:
If they are cutting out bracing, which is a 1824" piece of thin wall c channel...he is an idiot.
The first time a customer calls them on it and they have to make a return trip, they literally could have paid for thousands of those cheap thin braces.
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i completely agree. Greed my friend, greed. He only makes it an "option" for extra since some of his competitors are doing the same thing. Only the A Frame 20-24 wides get's them which makes no sense at all, since the classic rounded style needs them more. The A frame ends are welded on so much stronger than the other types with the little screws...OH and gotta love only putting 2 FREAKING SCREWS up top and down below and that's it...that's also to cut back on screws... yep yep yep (that's why I can't stand the guy and job but my freedom of schedule currently works good for me so sticking it out as long as I can)
 
One neighbor has a newer (6 - 8 months old) A frame style about 24x36. Each truss has a horizontal lower brace about 10 - 12 ft long. He had the heavier gauge uprights, no sides only a roof. He parks a 32 ft bumper pull camper. The whole thing fell forward and came down on the camper. Bent the tongue (front of camper now right on the ground),blew a tire, and lifted the rear of the camper about three feet higher than normal. Camper was parked off to one side. Passenger side tires were over a foot off the ground.

Another neighbor had two fall. One was 18x21 round corner carport. Fell on a 65 Mustang and 69 Roadrunner. The cub cadet roll bar went straight through the metal. Mustang had nearly all the damage. Basically fell straight down. The other was 18x36 round corner and tall for camper storage. The camper happens to be at the dealer having some warranty work. It did like the other, fell forward.
 
Mine has alot of bracing, 24x18, elephant structures built it, has had over 18 Inches twice and never moved at all
 
Blue CJ said:
One neighbor has a newer (6 - 8 months old) A frame style about 24x36. Each truss has a horizontal lower brace about 10 - 12 ft long. He had the heavier gauge uprights, no sides only a roof. He parks a 32 ft bumper pull camper. The whole thing fell forward and came down on the camper. Bent the tongue (front of camper now right on the ground),blew a tire, and lifted the rear of the camper about three feet higher than normal. Camper was parked off to one side. Passenger side tires were over a foot off the ground.

Another neighbor had two fall. One was 18x21 round corner carport. Fell on a 65 Mustang and 69 Roadrunner. The cub cadet roll bar went straight through the metal. Mustang had nearly all the damage. Basically fell straight down. The other was 18x36 round corner and tall for camper storage. The camper happens to be at the dealer having some warranty work. It did like the other, fell forward.
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dam this sucks bad.
I do have to add though just for arguments sake. People who have money and nice cars/campers/boats/etc should really pay the extra money to have a legit building or garage put up to protect their high dollar toys/hobbies, just saying. I would NEVER buy one of these cheapo carport garages to put over something that cost 5x nevertheless 10x or more the building. It just mind boggles me the things people put under these flimsy buildings and what's even worse, I hear the sales pitch at work everyday and these things are ALL HYPED UP to make that sale lol but people buy it.
Every now and then a customer comes and asks me, the shop guy who builds them/welds them and all, what I think and well, they get the truth and nothing but the truth but it's a perspective they didn't see and most have appreciated it. To each their own I guess, I try however to keep to myself and stay away from his business venues cause if I had a say in it, I'd a lost my job long ago LOL.
A Pole Barn style garage can be put up for same price if not just a little more and will hold up to anything and everything like a regular full blown stick built garage. I wish I could get into just a Pole Barn Garage business...I'd have carports in my area a thing of the past.
'
For example: I can build 18x25x9tall pole barn style "carport" open no sides for 750 for all the parts, and that's building full wooden trusses with plywood and glue not the cheapo little metal tab crap and plywood on the roof then metal tin on top. That's putting trusses 2ft OC and 4x4 posts 8ft OC (code) with 2ft in the ground. I did this same setup to my shop in Boone but went 4ft OC with posts, 26x44x10 tall cost me $2400 start to finish minus concrete pad but that was inspected and strong enough for Boone winters and then some.
 
from what I was told hours ago, he got 23 calls of collapses today DAIUUUUMMMMM. He said rest of the week he's just going out taking down the broken carports....so much for his little getaway I guess. If he was willing to pay someone at least %20 to put these up, he might have some help but at the current rate, he'll be shut down by spring if that
 
t4rghost said:
Pics I took today, and I also found out our building is the same design/construction as the building that collapsed...

dc5ffdd09701a88f3822aaaab0ab9bf5.jpg

a19cecac060038971523cab7ce5ece84.jpg


The entire roof ended up falling in after the picture in the article I posted earlier was taken.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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looking over this picture again, I'm dying to know how that thing was put together...how many screws in each piece...welded or not? was the roofing screwed off enough? the walls and studs screwed down enough? were the screw heads broken off which happens a lot from laborers who don't know how to properly run the drill torque, but you don't know it unless you shake/move the truss (happened at work a lot with these crackhead laborers he gets). That's what I'm curious of IF that building was screwed together anything like how i see them built, doesn't surprise me a bit.
 
So moral of the thread...Have a good garage or poll barn built or a steel building done by a highly reputable company if you're going to park anything more than a grill under it!!!
 
marty79 said:
dam this sucks bad.
I do have to add though just for arguments sake. People who have money and nice cars/campers/boats/etc should really pay the extra money to have a legit building or garage put up to protect their high dollar toys/hobbies, just saying. I would NEVER buy one of these cheapo carport garages to put over something that cost 5x nevertheless 10x or more the building. It just mind boggles me the things people put under these flimsy buildings and what's even worse, I hear the sales pitch at work everyday and these things are ALL HYPED UP to make that sale lol but people buy it.
Every now and then a customer comes and asks me, the shop guy who builds them/welds them and all, what I think and well, they get the truth and nothing but the truth but it's a perspective they didn't see and most have appreciated it. To each their own I guess, I try however to keep to myself and stay away from his business venues cause if I had a say in it, I'd a lost my job long ago LOL.
A Pole Barn style garage can be put up for same price if not just a little more and will hold up to anything and everything like a regular full blown stick built garage. I wish I could get into just a Pole Barn Garage business...I'd have carports in my area a thing of the past.
'
For example: I can build 18x25x9tall pole barn style "carport" open no sides for 750 for all the parts, and that's building full wooden trusses with plywood and glue not the cheapo little metal tab crap and plywood on the roof then metal tin on top. That's putting trusses 2ft OC and 4x4 posts 8ft OC (code) with 2ft in the ground. I did this same setup to my shop in Boone but went 4ft OC with posts, 26x44x10 tall cost me $2400 start to finish minus concrete pad but that was inspected and strong enough for Boone winters and then some.
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Many things drive the use of a carport versus a real building. $$$ has nothing to do with it.

Many people don’t have the room to install a building given the lot size, septic, flood plain, local building restrictions, etc.
 
rockcity said:
any people don’t have the room to install a building given the lot size, septic, flood plain, local building restrictions,
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kinda true but I'm referring to same size lot of their carport a pole barn can be built or similar. 95% of people buying these are going on a concrete pad. If a 20x21 carport fits...than a 20x21 pole barn fits! Inspection is just as simple on pole barn as it is on carport. Few posts in concrete, trusses, hurricane ties, brace the trusses together and whatever roofing they want, done. After it passes, you can close it in and not need an inspection again (at least in watauga county).
And in this area, you have to have a permit to put these up so even more so, if it passes the lot for a carport, it would pass for a better building lol. (minus I'm sure a few rare instances of course)
 
marty79 said:
A Pole Barn style garage can be put up for same price if not just a little more and will hold up to anything and everything like a regular full blown stick built garage
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Bullshit.

t4rghost said:
It was the same before it collapsed. Ours still has a roof
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I was asking if the building had been modified in any way from its original design - was there equipment hanging from the roof, equipment (fans, RTUs, etc) added to the top of the roof later, had insulation, suspended ceilings, light fixtures, trolleys, etc, etc, been added to the building that weren't included in the original design...
 
marty79 said:
kinda true but I'm referring to same size lot of their carport a pole barn can be built or similar. 95% of people buying these are going on a concrete pad. If a 20x21 carport fits...than a 20x21 pole barn fits! Inspection is just as simple on pole barn as it is on carport. Few posts in concrete, trusses, hurricane ties, brace the trusses together and whatever roofing they want, done. After it passes, you can close it in and not need an inspection again (at least in watauga county).
And in this area, you have to have a permit to put these up so even more so, if it passes the lot for a carport, it would pass for a better building lol. (minus I'm sure a few rare instances of course)
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