Frankenstein Street Queen (a.k.a. SpeedBump)

[ckruzer]

@Jody Treadway -> the wife is calling 911 due to my freakout

Got the rear diff cover buttoned up

And then did the front. Thanks for the heli coil @Jody Treadway worked great!

Still have trouble getting the BH bolt holes to line up well. I drilled the holes in the stock location dead on but they are all off and can only get one threaded. Gunna have to go buy a larger drill bit to try and widen the holes and just allow the trans bearing retainer to keep it all aligned and the bolts to keep it all sandwiched together.

And FYI: I feel like I'm hitting the proverbial "runners wall" on this build at this point. I was expecting everything from rolling chassis point forward to be "bolt up" stage. Just been one speed bump after another.

 

[ckruzer]

New sending unit arrived. Finally! Took like a month to arrive! Happened to come with a new pump too! Gunna install the Walbro still for the better specs. The stock 95 YJ new pump can be an excellent backup in the trail parts bin! Lol.

Only thing I am not sure on is what the ohm rating is on these 95 model YJ sending units. And for that matter I don't remember what my Autometer gauge is rated for. Lol. Guess we will find out soon

 

[ckruzer]

Installed the walbro on the new assembly. And dropped er in. Yeah!

Just a weee bit closa

 

[ckruzer]

Anyone know a place in Asheville that would sell hose clamps like pictured below? Anyone know off hand the exact an fittings I will need for the wix filter and fuel rail on the engine? I would like to cap the return like someone once mentioned and just run the return from the wix filter back.

Thanks!

 

[NC-V]

I don't know the p/n of those exact style clamps, but the 3/8 dia rubber coated clamps (think that clamp, but dipped in rubber coating) similar to that are made by BWD p/n: ALF7 and 5/8 dia ( for -6 hose) are ALF8. These should be available at most parts stores.

The AN fittings you will need will depend on your fuel line routing as far as 90s, straights and 45s etc. We typically use the GM efi to -6 fittings on the actual filter, tank sender and fuel rail, so you would need two 5/16" to -6 and 4 3/8" to -6 adapters, then whatever hose ends and -6 hose (usually use pushloc on fuel systems).

 

[ckruzer]

Lunch break for the win! Pulled the Tcase studs using jam nuts. I thank God for a newer rust free np231. It was a stroke of blessing to chose the 2000 Cherokee ax15 which required the newer np231 with long output. No rust! Almost a big oops. One stud was too near coming out and when I went to leverage the jam nuts loose it cocked the stud and boogered the first 3 threads. Thankfully not so bad a tap (I actually had the one I needed! Lol) was able to chase it and clean it up. :winning:

@XJsavage page 12 and ticking... lmao

 

[ckruzer]

Well. Performed some surgery today.

Got the Tcase clocking ring mounted. They eBay fella sent some missed matches bolts so had to cut one of them and toss a die on it to get it to work.

Took an epic pic when I tossed on the Tcase to pic my clock!!!

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

New sending unit arrived. Finally! Took like a month to arrive! Happened to come with a new pump too! Gunna install the Walbro still for the better specs. The stock 95 YJ new pump can be an excellent backup in the trail parts bin! Lol.

Only thing I am not sure on is what the ohm rating is on these 95 model YJ sending units. And for that matter I don't remember what my Autometer gauge is rated for. Lol. Guess we will find out soon

Most aftermarket gauges are 0-90 ohm. You can measure your stock one easy enough also, but i bet its similar.

 

[ckruzer]

Most aftermarket gauges are 0-90 ohm. You can measure your stock one easy enough also, but i bet its similar.

Thanks! Yeah pretty easy to measure the sender. But these autometer gauges are "Jeep" specific and I spoke to them when I ordered. They had the 0-90 and the 75-12. Can't remember which one I got! Lol

 

[XJsavage]

Thanks! Yeah pretty easy to measure the sender. But these autometer gauges are "Jeep" specific and I spoke to them when I ordered. They had the 0-90 and the 75-12. Can't remember which one I got! Lol

As far as I know a 0-90 sweep should work on all of them.

 

[ckruzer]

@XJsavage you ready for the sawzall party?

Now that I think about it. My old stock sender was 12 full and 75 empty. The auto meter gauge was backwards then

 

[XJsavage]

@XJsavage you ready for the sawzall party?

Naked women and alcohol comes first, but I might can squeeze in some time on electrical tools of mass destruction.

 

[ckruzer]

Naked women and alcohol comes first, but I might can squeeze in some time on electrical tools of mass destruction.

lol

 

[tlucier]

Well. Performed some surgery today.

Got the Tcase clocking ring mounted. They eBay fella sent some missed matches bolts so had to cut one of them and toss a die on it to get it to work.

Took an epic pic when I tossed on the Tcase to pic my clock!!!

You guys that can maintain a clean garage during a build kill me. Hell, I don't even have a build going on and my garage is a disaster area! Been following your thread for awhile. Nice job!

 

[ckruzer]

You guys that can maintain a clean garage during a build kill me. Hell, I don't even have a build going on and my garage is a disaster area! Been following your thread for awhile. Nice job!

Thanks man!

Haha. Its just a habit Uncle Sam taught just a little too thoroughly. I try and vacuum the floor every weekend and I always clean up tools and put them away at the end of the day. The only exception is when I sneak out during lunch or something like that, or like last night when I finished removing the fenders and worked until the last possible second (hmm actually 5 mins past that lol) to make it inside for family time.

 

[Loganwayne]

I would have waited to install the transfer case. Unless you don't care to cut up the floor to make it work

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[ckruzer]

I would have waited to install the transfer case. Unless you don't care to cut up the floor to make it work

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I didnt install it. Def dont want the extra weight trying to put the trans in. Just set er on there so i could clock it how i wanted. I found someone online who had the same setup (including 1" BL and the barnes CM im using) and they were able to clock flat. I didnt go full flat, just enough to clear the bottom of the rails for a flat belly skid.

Havent decided to gamble the tcase install then body, or body then tcase.

 

[Loganwayne]

I didnt install it. Def dont want the extra weight trying to put the trans in. Just set er on there so i could clock it how i wanted. I found someone online who had the same setup (including 1" BL and the barnes CM im using) and they were able to clock flat. I didnt go full flat, just enough to clear the bottom of the rails for a flat belly skid.

Havent decided to gamble the tcase install then body, or body then tcase.

Body then case. I didn't realize you were going to have a body lift that changes things

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[ckruzer]

Got lazy and didn't take any more pics than these two. What?!?!?!? Lol. Ran the thermoplastic flex brake line (3000 psi) through the frame rail for extra protection. Installed the ss braided drop flex line at the rear. Took awhile to find the d60 brake retaining bolt that also acts as the vent tube. Got that sucker cleaned out and tapped the threads in the tube and and chased the threads on the bolt. All set on that. Mocked up the ss braided lines for the front. Not quite comfortable with length so gunna have to get fancy with how I mount. Then spent a good bit taking measurements for fuel lines and price searching AN adapters.

Tomorrow dropping in the trans and gunna do the trans mount. This week need to order the headers, LS1 op sensor, alt, starter, belt, and BL. Waiting for it to arrive planning on prepping underbody. Need to get around to cleaning and painting the fuel rails too. Haha

Oh and drilled the mud collectors on gas tank CM. The painted the exposed metal in the new drain holes.

 

[ckruzer]

Installed the trans. Mocked up the CM. And finally finished the last front hub that was being a pain in the butt with installing the wheel studs. It's on all four rollers now!

CM issue. I guess the guys I met running the Barnes CM with a flat belly and a ax15 must have been doing so with 4.2/4.0, and the 5.3 must cause the trans to sit higher. Was no where close to being able to pull off the flat belly. Gunna have to mount to underside of the frame! Ugh! #rocktarget.

It will be able to do seperate flat belly skids, it will just be the CM that is hanging down. Bah!

 

[XJsavage]

Are you sure you don't want the bellhousing black and the trans red? 100% certain?? I mean... its not to late ya know.. Are you imperturbable with this being a last shot situation?

 

[ckruzer]

Are you sure you don't want the bellhousing black and the trans red? 100% certain?? I mean... its not to late ya know.. Are you imperturbable with this being a last shot situation?

damnit man. you better get over here and help me repaint now

 

[XJsavage]

damnit man. you better get over here and help me repaint now

Cool, I'll bring a sawzall too. I'll be over hanging out in my build thread for a while to see if it stops raining.

 

[ckruzer]

Ordered some Chassis Saver and Black Monstaliner

 

[ckruzer]

Bit the bullet and go some tube. Should be enough for the trans, rear shock, and antiwrap bar crossmembers. Im sure I'll find a use for the 2" x 1/4 pipe, maybe for frame tie ins.