awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
Can any of you smart folks figure out what I need to use to clean out my sprayer with after I put this stuff down? I can't find anything. Water or acetone?
Future shop build advice
- Thread starter shelby27604
- Start date
Loganwayne
#BTL
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Location
- Clyde, North Carolina
Go buy a cheap spray one and done.Can any of you smart folks figure out what I need to use to clean out my sprayer with after I put this stuff down? I can't find anything. Water or acetone?
awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
My buddy tried that it it wouldn't work. He wound up rolling his on and it looks like poop. This is 25% solids and won't spray evenly through the cheap garden sprayers.
Tom@Hilltop_Machine
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2005
- Location
- Rural Retreat, VA
Will a cheap texture sprayer work?
YotaOnRocks
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2007
- Location
- Madison
Mek would my choice, but acetone should work fine. Definitely not waterCan any of you smart folks figure out what I need to use to clean out my sprayer with after I put this stuff down? I can't find anything. Water or acetone?
Silverado_Express
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2010
- Location
- Clover, SC
Bumping this up again. Interested in what others are seeing for cost now.
I had a 30x40 pole barn style building with 10x40 lean to down one side built around 2018. Almost immediately realized it wasn't big enough (I know it never will be) and have always talked about adding on to it. Got the guy that built it to quote removing the rear wall and adding 20-30 ft to it, including the lean to. He warned me when he came over to look at the grade etc before he got started on the quote that prices had went up significantly since COVID which I knew and have heard.
Got the quote today and was a bit of a sticker shock but wondering if the 3x materials prices that he is claiming is what everyone else in the market has seen.
He will be removing the rear wall and garage door (hopefully reusing the metal and purlins, can't reuse the 6x6 post that are in the ground i'd assume) and essentially just adding 20-30ft and reinstalling the rear wall and door.
He came in at 27,500 for 20ft and 36,500 for adding 30ft. Both quotes included concrete. The lean to doesn't have concrete so it's just a 20x30 or 30x30 concrete slab being added.
I think I only paid 32k for the building and concrete when I originally built it and it included concrete that went from the driveway to the shop, probably an additional 20ft. Am I wrong for struggling with a quote for an addition that cost more than the whole building was?
I had a 30x40 pole barn style building with 10x40 lean to down one side built around 2018. Almost immediately realized it wasn't big enough (I know it never will be) and have always talked about adding on to it. Got the guy that built it to quote removing the rear wall and adding 20-30 ft to it, including the lean to. He warned me when he came over to look at the grade etc before he got started on the quote that prices had went up significantly since COVID which I knew and have heard.
Got the quote today and was a bit of a sticker shock but wondering if the 3x materials prices that he is claiming is what everyone else in the market has seen.
He will be removing the rear wall and garage door (hopefully reusing the metal and purlins, can't reuse the 6x6 post that are in the ground i'd assume) and essentially just adding 20-30ft and reinstalling the rear wall and door.
He came in at 27,500 for 20ft and 36,500 for adding 30ft. Both quotes included concrete. The lean to doesn't have concrete so it's just a 20x30 or 30x30 concrete slab being added.
I think I only paid 32k for the building and concrete when I originally built it and it included concrete that went from the driveway to the shop, probably an additional 20ft. Am I wrong for struggling with a quote for an addition that cost more than the whole building was?
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
Seems exceptionally high to me, but I’m a cheapskate. The steel has gone up, maybe even doubled, but certainly not tripled. A quick check online shows galvalume at $3/foot. When I built mine in 2014 it was about $1.80/foot.
Silverado_Express
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2010
- Location
- Clover, SC
What about wood and concrete? This is 6x6 post, 2x8 (maybe bigger) trusses, and 2x6 perlins.
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
3x is actually pretty damn good
We just got the 2025 pricing books in. And even THEY are running low
Commercial buildings could be built in the $300 sqft range in 2023 but we're now topping the upper $500 sqft. So I can only imagine the pricing on something with absolutely NO margin like yours would be 4 or 5x. Hence why I say 3x sounds GOOD
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- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
A 6x6x16 was $35 when I built mine, $65 now. 2x6x10 was $6 then, $11 now. Concrete was about $3.50-4sqft then, I think it’s like $8 now but I have no idea on that.
awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
Doesnt sound too far off unfortunately.
untchabl
I like rocks
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2009
- Location
- Bear Creek, NC 27207
Here are R&R Ironworks current sale prices.
That will give you an idea for materials package cost for standing roof or enclosed.
My 40x80 standing roof kit from R&R is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. So far I've got 3 quotes to install it. First guy was $5/sq.ft and second two were both $6/sq.ft Still waiting on 2 other people to get back to me.
That will give you an idea for materials package cost for standing roof or enclosed.
My 40x80 standing roof kit from R&R is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. So far I've got 3 quotes to install it. First guy was $5/sq.ft and second two were both $6/sq.ft Still waiting on 2 other people to get back to me.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
Assuming Moss quoted it?
If so...he hit a homerun on a commercial project and now thinks he can price everything like that one job.
Unfortunately for him that homerun wasn't to true commercial standards and was 30% lower then competition prices so the way I see it, he is now stuck in a weird limbo. Where he's too cheap for commerical red iron work and too high for his long standing bread and butter resi garage work...
But yeah...I'd say he bumped his noggin
For a materials price comparison....I built this for my wife's school this year. It was a 20x30. Had around $7k ($2k trusses, $4k for the rest of framing, $1k for shingles) in it for just materials, concrete pad was $4k, and I put it up by the hour when I had time and had the high school carpentry class help roof it.......maybe i should have got them an R&R that was about twice this size 
Also I didn't bury the post, just did 2x2 footer underneath post and anchored them in the concrete. Ive never done an R&R but I don't think I would do an open one without sleeving the post and burying them. This one sturdy but you can tell it's not the same as burying the post.
Also I didn't bury the post, just did 2x2 footer underneath post and anchored them in the concrete. Ive never done an R&R but I don't think I would do an open one without sleeving the post and burying them. This one sturdy but you can tell it's not the same as burying the post.
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
Roof looks great, but the rest of it looks questionableFor a materials price comparison....I built this for my wife's school this year. It was a 20x30. Had around $7k ($2k trusses, $4k for the rest of framing, $1k for shingles) in it for just materials, concrete pad was $4k, and I put it up by the hour when I had time and had the high school carpentry class help roof it.......maybe i should have got them an R&R that was about twice this size
Also I didn't bury the post, just did 2x2 footer underneath post and anchored them in the concrete. Ive never done an R&R but I don't think I would do an open one without sleeving the post and burying them. This one sturdy but you can tell it's not the same as burying the post.
View attachment 430437
jovibuilt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2006
- Location
- spruce pine nc
Where did you buy your wetsets? I looked at them online for the price I may make my own.
awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
Home Depot online. I thought about making brackets but honestly, I don't have a break or a punch and it would have taken forever to cut, drill, and bend 19 brackets. Then if you do the ones with rebar you have to cut and weld all those on. When I weighed the cost, and the fact that the Simpson brackets have an actual rating sealed the deal. I still welded some rebar angles to my corner brackets just because I wanted them to have some more grab.
awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
Need some help determining how far I can span with a free I-beam. Buddy has a 40ft w8x15 *maybe 18* but I couldn't get a great measure on the web thickness because of all the torch slag. I was planning to span 40ft with a post in the middle so 20ft clear. I'm thinking now I might need to third it and put 2 posts. This is for a loft in my shop. I could Google this more extensively, but that would take time and I know @jeepinmatt or one of you other smart folks will find it sooner.
awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
Since you buzzards wouldn't bless me with your brilliance, I kept googling. Best I can tell, 15' span can support 10,xxx lb live load. My loft is 40x10 so using the 40psf live load number, the whole thing would only be 16,000lbs of potential load. The beam would be supporting only half that load (in my mind, correct me if I'm wrong) so I should be good with 2 posts equally spaced. I think I could cheat and go with 1 but I don't really know. There's no chance I'll have more than a few people up there even if I put a pool table up there one day.
Got most of my bathroom framed up yesterday.
Got to drink like a framer to think like a framer.
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
awheelterd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Location
- Kenly, NC
That probably explains why I made the walls 3" too tall the first time and had to tear it back down and trim up the studs
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
Now you know why studs come in 93s...when you figure out the 92 5/8s tell me so we both knowThat probably explains why I made the walls 3" too tall the first time and had to tear it back down and trim up the studs
Assuming that pad was 20x30, what was the thickness? Trying to figure out ahead of time whether it is worth pursuing doing my driveway this year.For a materials price comparison....I built this for my wife's school this year. It was a 20x30. Had around $7k ($2k trusses, $4k for the rest of framing, $1k for shingles) in it for just materials, concrete pad was $4k, and I put it up by the hour when I had time and had the high school carpentry class help roof it.......maybe i should have got them an R&R that was about twice this size
Why Pre-cut Studs are 92-5/8" Long - Hansen Buildings
Mike the Pole Barn Guru explains why studs come in at 92-5/8" long. How to figure how many studs are in a wall.
www.hansenpolebuildings.com
I did the ceilings in my addition with 5/8" drywall and the 8' tall wallboards indeed hit about 1/2 off the floor with a single sill plate and a double top plate. 1.5+92.625+1.5+1.5=97.125. Then 97.125-96-0.625=0.5"
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