Getting the samurai to Harlan

89wrangler

Not a new member
Joined
Oct 22, 2005
Location
Bostic,NC
There is no way in hell I'd put in that much work, waste the time and money for Dana 30's. Not trying to be a dick or bust your balls, but I've got a damn good feeling, you'll be regretting this decision.

Everyone is different, that is why not everyone drives a Jeep. Maybe he has a lot of time to kill, and money that just needs spent on something so the girl friend doesn't get it. Who knows? Let's let the man carry on so we can really see how this thing really works. Everyone understands how they think it will work, but not sure anyone has actually proved it.
 

77GreenMachine

Phillip Talton
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Location
Trinity, NC
@BigClay has some extra complete shafts I believe. At least, he’s always offering me his shaft....
 

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2015
Location
Vale, NC
5000lb Jeep with 37s. But unless you have experience with a Dana 30 as a rear axle in a extremely light weight rig I don’t think you can comment on the strength unless you are just spilling internet bullshit. Most people haven’t wheeled anything less than 4klbs.
Rock that D30 dude, especially as a rear steer...freaking awesome and out of the normal realm, I'm all about different. Stick to your idea and build it!!!! I would know lol. I've abused D30s and D35s with welded spiders/carriers on 5k XJs with nasty cut Thornbird 35s and only broke shafts when hitting hard trails on big rocks otherwise handled most of the abuse on those nasty grooved tires for many years (despite what most people said). Build it, wheel it, enjoy it, brake a little here and there but isn't that part of this anyways?!?! Props to you and your build for going above the norm...keep it going, can't wait to see it done and working!!! Cheers!!
 

Brownsxj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Location
Durham NC
Keep it going man. Looks like your having a lot of fun!
 

Mulishajoe

need more parts
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Location
Salisbury nc
I have pondered on doing this after reading about one that was seen at Moab. If you step back and think about it there should be no issues with using the dana 30's. Those that know me will tell you I abuse my junk and I still have Sami axles under mine with 34 tsl's. The 30 has bigger shafts than stock Sami axles so it can't get much worse. Sure you would be going to u-joint axles but like to op said, we dont make much hp. Lower gears, sure can put more stress on things hell I have 6.5 to 1 and hammer stuff. I think it will work and hope to learn from this build for a possible way of doing mine. Just my .02 but I say if you build it it will be fun none the less.
 

Jody Treadway

Croc wearing fool
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Hendersonville, NC
I have pondered on doing this after reading about one that was seen at Moab. If you step back and think about it there should be no issues with using the dana 30's. Those that know me will tell you I abuse my junk and I still have Sami axles under mine with 34 tsl's. The 30 has bigger shafts than stock Sami axles so it can't get much worse. Sure you would be going to u-joint axles but like to op said, we dont make much hp. Lower gears, sure can put more stress on things hell I have 6.5 to 1 and hammer stuff. I think it will work and hope to learn from this build for a possible way of doing mine. Just my .02 but I say if you build it it will be fun none the less.

You shut up with your first hand knowledge.
Sheesh.
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
I have pondered on doing this after reading about one that was seen at Moab. If you step back and think about it there should be no issues with using the dana 30's. Those that know me will tell you I abuse my junk and I still have Sami axles under mine with 34 tsl's. The 30 has bigger shafts than stock Sami axles so it can't get much worse. Sure you would be going to u-joint axles but like to op said, we dont make much hp. Lower gears, sure can put more stress on things hell I have 6.5 to 1 and hammer stuff. I think it will work and hope to learn from this build for a possible way of doing mine. Just my .02 but I say if you build it it will be fun none the less.

There so many different things people say about axle strength it’s confusing to do research. I have a buddy that goes most all the same places I do with a tj with the stock lp front Dana 30. His has 5.13s and a Detroit on 35s. I think he’s broke 1 inner shaft that was an aftermarket stock replacement. I have seen it with my own eyes that’s why I don’t believe all the crap about you sneeze on a Dana 30 wrong and they fall apart. And most other people talking about it have xjs and you know how those guys drive. The only reason I broke the stock samurai Birfield was a clutch dump in reverse with all the weight on that one tire trying to reposition so I didn’t roll. Those tiny samurai axles made it wall the way through death valley at the gulches
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
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I built some lower link brackets and coil buckets for the new front axle. I managed to save the old upper link bracket. So I just reused that.

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I built the coil mount, the shock mount and the lower link bracket all into one. It’s much cleaner than my old setup was. I pushed the lower links out about an inch on each side just to make the bracket not land on the center section of the axle

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It looks much better now both axles are the same width. I’m excited to see how the width adds stability.

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I built a new rear driveshaft out of a tj front and my old samurai rear shaft. The tj shaft actually fits pretty good inside the samurai shaft so it worked out good

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Since I’m running hiems in the steering I want to double shear everything. I built a new pitman arm the same length as a tj pitman arm to get the full throw of the steering. I used the old tracker arm and cut the splined part off. Its just tacked right now to verify the fit. Then I’ll fully weld it and box the sides in
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
It’s been a while since I posted. I just wanted to try my idea and see if it worked. With 4 relatively trouble free trips to uwharrie I ran out of time to test it anymore. My wife and I left for Harlan the day after getting married.

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We spent 2 full days wheeling in Harlan and the Dana 30s held up to wide open shooting up muddy hills and some pretty awesome rock trails. The worst thing that broke the whole trip was a trim ring falling off the wheel on my k10

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We ran some easier trails on the first day to explore some and see what was out there. It was really wet and muddy. It was so slick I got completely denied at the entrance to lions den. The second day it dried out some and we ran some of the rock trails like killin time and white tail crawl.

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None of the pictures even come close to showing what the trails look like in person. Even just walking through lions den was one of the coolest offroad experiences I’ve ever had.

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The samurai did great other than some carb related issues with running on steep down hills. And the engine being extremely wore out. I did not have time to install my 1.6 8v before leaving. But that will the next big mod for sure. I’m thinking even with a small turbo.

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paradisePWoffrd

Recovering Project Junkie
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
Location
Newton, NC
Pretty sure you just nanny nanny boo booed all of us haters, and I dig it. Will you post some pics of your rear ram set up and where you split the pressure coming off the pump? I’m interested in how it all got packaged. Congrats on getting hitched and making the goal Harlan. Still wanna see some pics of it crab walking.

X2. Id like to see some pics of the axles setup under the zuk.
 

Pennsylvaniaboy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Location
Chambersburg, PA
Just read thru this....screw the haters....a dana30 is nearly free, based on the types on opinions here. And if all is "stock" minus flipped tubes, then getting parts and spares would be so simple and cheap. If you are keeping it as is, I say ROCK ON! with rear steer this thing could weave it's way thru any trail and pick lines no one else could. I love it!

I am also shocked you have that much rear steer. When first reading it, I thought he isnt gonna get that much angle with leafs, but clearly the jeep is that much wider than the zuk.
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
Going back to where I left off in the build pictures

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I double sheared all 4 knuckles to support the heims

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Welded the rear spider gears. I welded the side gears too the carrier as well for some extra strength.

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The panhard bar had a lot of things in the way. It had to to be bent to clear the oil pan, the axle, and the frame. Its a lot longer than my old panhard was. And the angle is not as flat as the old one. But the new drag link and the panhard are the same angle and length. I used a poly bushing at the axle side to stop it from rotating.

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This is front of the axle side panhard mount. I tacked a bolt to the knuckle holding the panhard where I wanted and kept fitting the bracket until it slid on the bolt into place.

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It’s tight but everything clears like it should. I used the old frame side panhard bracket because I was running out of time.

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With every thing else permanent I boxed in and fully welded my pitman arm.

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I wasn’t planning on changing my steering shaft but my rag joint was broke into 2 pieces when I removed my steering box. That’s just a weld on ujoint from amazon

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I finished up the brake lines and got to drive it around. I bought some cheap stainless brake hoses for a lifted tj and they fit the front good with changing to a standard flare nut. The rear has a tj rear hose down to the axle then hard line out to the knuckles. Then a stock tj front rubber hose to each caliper. Also changed out the master cylinder for a Subaru Forester one. It stops really good.
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
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The little one approves too

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I’m happy with the added width. That should stop me from dragging the body on the rocks.

I don’t have any pictures of it right now but the rear steering is locked out right now. Some 1/2 plate welded to the axle and the tie rod is holding it from turning. I don’t even have power steering for the front right now. I ran out of time from being to busy to get all that done. Soon I would like to have the pump installed and hook up my tracker steering box. I’m starting to have second thoughts about making the rear steer. I think there would be too much going on in the rear if I did rear steer and a three link with trailing arms like I want too. I’m not sure combining 15 or more inches of wheel travel with rear steer would be worth it.

My list for what’s next goes
1. New engine
2. Power steering
3. Back seat for the kiddo

Maybe?
1. stretch the tub some for back seat passenger safety
2. trailing arms and coil overs in the rear
3. sticky Maxxis utv tires
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
Pretty sure you just nanny nanny boo booed all of us haters, and I dig it. Will you post some pics of your rear ram set up and where you split the pressure coming off the pump? I’m interested in how it all got packaged. Congrats on getting hitched and making the goal Harlan. Still wanna see some pics of it crab walking.

I’m haven’t set up the rear steer yet. But my research and logic makes me think to run the return from the log splitter valve for the rear as the pressure hose for the front steering box. The only time I would lose some flow to the front would be when the rear was moving and you don’t normally do that while driving at speed anyway.
 

paradisePWoffrd

Recovering Project Junkie
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
Location
Newton, NC
If you want to keep the rear locked out for good, you could probly run double splined shafts with tube seals. It would eliminate a possible ujoint failure. Of course, the ujoint is not likely to fail when it never turns.
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
If you want to keep the rear locked out for good, you could probly run double splined shafts with tube seals. It would eliminate a possible ujoint failure. Of course, the ujoint is not likely to fail when it never turns.


If I upgrade this rear axle I will probably do something very different. I’m really interested in having a unit bearing full float rear axle. I have a 8.8 with a bad bearing end laying in the yard that will be a place to start. I’m thinking a jk or Chevy trailblazer unit bearing since they don’t require the axle nut to hold the bearing together.
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
If I upgrade this rear axle I will probably do something very different. I’m really interested in having a unit bearing full float rear axle. I have a 8.8 with a bad bearing end laying in the yard that will be a place to start. I’m thinking a jk or Chevy trailblazer unit bearing since they don’t require the axle nut to hold the bearing together.

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I started on my new rear axle. Those plug welds are hard to drill. I will be going at it with a carbide burr this weekend
 

mtnbiker4evr13

Trail Whale
Joined
Sep 18, 2018
Location
Asheville NC
I 100% like this. Having ran 35s on samurai axles a long time you can get away with alot in these. Thumb on nose twiddling fingers at people is even better.

I did go to yotas for heavy rock use... but still.. party on!
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
At the gulches I broke one of the fuel lines going into my tank. This is the second time I’ve had trouble from the rubber line because it makes a hard turn above the exhaust.

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I reused my hose barb, just used a short pipe with threads on both ends and a 90 to make it easier on the hose.

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I built seat brackets for this smitybilt seat. It’s supposed to be a front seat from a cj-7ish jeep. The seat belt mounts off the bracket as well. Now I have somewhere to put the little ones car seat. I used this instead of the samurai bench that way I could have somewhere to put my ammo cans with tools and recovery gear.

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Also made some progress on my new rear housing. Those tubes are in there tight. It’s just taking me a while because my compressor doesn’t run a die grinder long and I’m pretty sure I’ve worn out my carbide burr.

I also moved my rear axle back another inch using the offset holes in my spring perches. I was hoping for it to look a little bit more proportional since it looked to me like the rear axle wasn’t centered in the wheel well great.
 

91samurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Location
Midland, Nc
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I ripped the panhard bar mount off the frame at uwharrie. It appears to have failed at the edge of the heat affected zone. Thats the original bracket from when I first linked the front.

It twisted the brake line up bad too so I’ll have to replace the line. The tires have always rubbed the front brake lines some so I’ll change it up to keep the lines safe

It may have cracked the oil pan again to. I’ll have to check it out some more
 

paradisePWoffrd

Recovering Project Junkie
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
Location
Newton, NC
View attachment 345273
I ripped the panhard bar mount off the frame at uwharrie. It appears to have failed at the edge of the heat affected zone. Thats the original bracket from when I first linked the front.

It twisted the brake line up bad too so I’ll have to replace the line. The tires have always rubbed the front brake lines some so I’ll change it up to keep the lines safe

It may have cracked the oil pan again to. I’ll have to check it out some more
sounds like the pan needs to get plated with some 3/16.
 
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