Getting the samurai to Harlan

[91samurai]

sounds like the pan needs to get plated with some 3/16.

It’s a really complex shape because of how the pan is notched. I’ll will probably pull it and weld the seams again and it will be fine.

 

[91samurai]

I cut out the torn section of the frame and welded some plate in the outside and the bottom

Plated the outside of the frame with some 3/16. The notch isn’t really nessisary anymore since the axle swap, but it was easier to leave it there. Not sure why, but I kept getting some random porosity. Maybe it’s the ~2 year old wire. Or maybe some bigger issue.

The new bracket is the width to use misalignment spacers this time. It’s wrapped around the inside of the frame too.

I started routing the new brake lines. I got another rear brake hose for a lifted tj to drop down to the front axle. I also bought some stock tj front hoses to go from the axle to the caliper and a willwood manual portioning valve.

 

[91samurai]

I cut off the factory proportioning valve and mounted the new one in about the same spot. I can reach from the side over the frame to adjust it, so I don’t have to crawl under

 

[91samurai]

Got a couple of the brake lines built

 

[91samurai]

Got the factory tj brake hoses mounted. The drivers side I made a tab and cut off a bolt and welded it in. On the passenger side I just welded a bolt to the panhard bar mount.

I finished building the rest of the brake hardlines and bled everything. Everything went smoothly adjusting the proportioning valve and it stops good now.

 

[91samurai]

I was researching mr2 electric power steering pumps recently when I came across the Volvo electric pump. Its simple to wire and has a built in reservoir.

I already have a tracker steering box with the lines looped in the samurai so this will get me power steering without having to adapt the tracker pump to a v belt or build the brackets for the pump, and when I install the 1.6 nothing with the steering will have to be changed.

pulled one today from a 2011 s40 at the junk yard. I also ordered a small fluid cooler and some parts to build lines and wire the pump today

This was a list I found of Volvo’s that have this pump. Some have a remote reservoir as well

 

[91samurai]

Built a bracket from angle iron to catch the three bolts. It would have been nice to use the factory bracket but I wanted to mount it as low as possible for hood clearance. I used a 14mm banjo to an adapter for the box and a 16mm o-ring to an adapter for the pump.

I mounted a small steering cooler up front. All of the hoses have come out really short. Also got the circuit breaker mounted up, most of the wiring is ran where it needs to be. I’m just short a few terminals to make it work

 

[ProbablyBroke]

Does this change the rear steer plans?

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Does this pump run based on demand, or does it run all the time?

 

[91samurai]

Does this change the rear steer plans?

as cool as the rear steer would be I’m leaning towards keeping it simple for now. my current plan is to remove the Dana 30 rear and replace it with a 8.8 I’ve been working on retubing so it’s offset. The basic plan is full floating with jk unit bearings and custom double splined axle shafts.

I’m attempting to make a smaller version of the super duty 60 unit bearing rear axles.

Does this pump run based on demand, or does it run all the time?

From what I under stand the current draw varries by load. That’s all I really know. There are some good threads on other forums and some YouTube videos I watched about it.

 

[91samurai]

Space under the hood is tight but everything is in there and it’s working. Those air horns will go away soon since the compressor died.

I had to relocate the overflow bottle to make room for my steering pump. I used a piece of the brake hardline from the used frame I bought for my 1500hd since it was the right size and the bends were already in the right spot.

I bought the wrong hose for the pressure hose originally and had to make a new one. I’ve got everything bled and running now. I even took it to uwharrie. It’s got a small leak from the steering box and i need to swap in a new battery. So far the alternator is doing a good job of running it but the battery I have is so old it’s hard to tell if I might need to upgrade the alternator in the future. Currently I have an off the shelf gm alternator somewhere around 95 amps I think.

 

[91samurai]

Slowly over the last few months I’ve been reassbling the 1.6 8v engine I’ve had for a few years. I took it apart around 4 years ago. With it mostly assembled and waiting on the last few parts I wanted to go ahead and install it and get some testing done before going to windrock in October.

I pulled the 1.3 out so I could start getting some parts ready for the new engine. I need to get my flywheel turned since I bought a new clutch. And I got a transmission rebuild kit since mine has needed synchros forever.

I pulled the oil pan and pick up from the 1.3 to swap onto the 1.6. Since the ends are different I’ll have to cut them off and weld one up.

Drilling out the 1.3 pulley for the 1.6 pattern was simpler than converting the gm alteranator to the small serpentine belt size the 1.6 used. The water pump pulley was a direct swap. Also any parts store gm alternator should work if I need one in a hurry

 

[91samurai]

Modified the oil pick up from the 1.3 to work. I also had to cut the windage tray a little in the back of the pan to clear the last bearing cap.

I ran a tig bead around all the seams on the pan to help it seal up. It’s always leaked a little since I cracked it the first time.

 

[91samurai]

I got my electric fuel pump mounted and wired. It’s really low pressure so I didn’t have to regulate it down for the Toyota carb

I also got my clutch and timing belt installed on the 1.6

I’m waiting on a part for the transmission to finish my rebuild and then I can bolt it on the engine

 

[stewartgivens]

Wow - lot's of progress!

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

You should talk to vango about his utv tires, they’re light cheap and sticky in theory. The light weight might make a 30 live longer

https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/cream-puff.202328/page-2#post-1863810

 

[91samurai]

You should talk to vango about his utv tires, they’re light cheap and sticky in theory. The light weight might make a 30 live longer

https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/cream-puff.202328/page-2#post-1863810

My plan is to run the roxzillas in the future. I’m unsure on whether it will be in the 32 inch or the 35. Sticky for sure.

 

[91samurai]

It really has been one thing after another trying to get the new engine running.

After fighting to get it where all the mounts would line up, I had to build a longer bump stop spacer for the right side so my panhard wouldn’t hit the oil pan at full bump.

Then I found that I had build the bracket for my oil pickup wrong and it hit the counter weight on the crankshaft. I removed the pan and ground it to fit.

My next goal was to get the engine to build oil pressure. No matter how much I cranked it, it never built pressure. I did some research on it and decided to get a new oil pump and pack it full of oil and assembly lube.

After replacing the oil pump it built oil pressure but it would backfire like the timing was off. I found that someone had installed the wrong cap on the tracker distributor. I had the cap for a 16v not an 8v. I swapped to the old samurai cap. After all this I got it to run but only for about 5 seconds before I cut it off since it had no coolant.

 

[91samurai]

I tried to take the easy way out and just pie cut the very end of my old exhaust. But when I let the samurai down off my lift it hit the upper link at ride height. The old exhaust went down right next to the bellhousing and the 1.6 is about an inch wider where it bolts to the transmission. So I cut the exhaust back under the drivers floor board and completely rebuild the front. I ratchet strapped the front axle at full bump so I could raise it up in the air.

Next I went to fill the coolant and make a mark on my crank pulley to set the timing. When I rotated the engine an looked in the spark plug hole I saw water ontop of the piston. I removed the cylinder head to to try to find my leak and found a piece of the old intake gasket let coolant run through the intake port into the cylinder.

I was cleaning the head so I could re install it and I noticed that the number 2 exhaust valve was burned. I poured some water in it an confirmed it leaked into the exhaust manifold.

I ordered all new valves for it and lapped them really good before putting the head back on.

I was still trying to get the motor together so my wife and I could take it to windrock for our anniversary but I don’t think I will have it running enough to have it tested and everything else done.

 

[Van-go]

You should talk to vango about his utv tires, they’re light cheap and sticky in theory. The light weight might make a 30 live longer

https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/cream-puff.202328/page-2#post-1863810

No matter how light they are, they are a 35 sticky. Ring gear said byeee.

 

[91samurai]

No matter how light they are, they are a 35 sticky. Ring gear said byeee.

Did you get enough time on them before you broke the front axle to have some input on the tire? Did they clean out good, etc?

 

[Van-go]

Did you get enough time on them before you broke the front axle to have some input on the tire? Did they clean out good, etc?

I loved the tires. They grab on to everything. I made it to the top of little Jager (got hung up right at the top and had to winch)
They are great tires.

 

[91samurai]

I lengthened the slot on my alternator bracket a little bit. And trimmed the end so it didn’t hit the radiator hose.

I adjusted the valves again and my ticking noise went away. I have been fixing more little stuff getting it ready for a shakedown run.

 

[91samurai]

Went for a test run down the road and it did good

 

[91samurai]

I adjusted the clutch and put it on the trailer for a test run at uwharrie tomorrow.