i hear ya man.....i think the mail jeep could be a big hit among voters. think up a catchy name for it. you got my vote
Gone Postal : Mail Jeep Build
- Thread starter 95yjjeep
- Start date
i hear ya man.....i think the mail jeep could be a big hit among voters. think up a catchy name for it. you got my vote
Ray VanBuren
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2005
- Location
- Shelby,NC
You would definately get my vote. Wish I had gone ahead and done all this to my DJ when I had it. I was looking for another DJ to cut in half and splice onto the rear of mine to stretch the wheelbase. BTW, if anyone is interested, there is a DJ at one of the car lots here in Shelby.
Thanks guys!
Here is the final rendition of the logo I'm going to have made to put on the backdoor. It will be a black vinyl cut out decal so everything that is white will be the color of the jeep. The paint color will be close to the Poison Spyder venom KOH buggy color. I know I'm getting the wagon before the horse but I had some spare time at lunch today to get the logo knocked out.
Here is the final rendition of the logo I'm going to have made to put on the backdoor. It will be a black vinyl cut out decal so everything that is white will be the color of the jeep. The paint color will be close to the Poison Spyder venom KOH buggy color. I know I'm getting the wagon before the horse but I had some spare time at lunch today to get the logo knocked out.
Grizz
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
Looks great, I do vinyl decals if you need any help with the graphics give me a shout.
bootsyj
Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2010
- Location
- Concord nc
sweet build
just sat here for the past two hours and went through
this whole build so far. just gota say "wow". great work
and craftsmanship. Glad to see that old ugly door was useful to you. I will be looking for further postings . keep it up.
just sat here for the past two hours and went through
this whole build so far. just gota say "wow". great work
and craftsmanship. Glad to see that old ugly door was useful to you. I will be looking for further postings . keep it up.
That's awesome. I'll hit you up whenever I'm ready to had some cut for me. Can you shoot me a PM with what kind of price range a 1 color vinyl decal would be. No bigger than 12"x12"? I'm curious as to how much these things would run me.
just sat here for the past two hours and went through
this whole build so far. just gota say "wow". great work
and craftsmanship. Glad to see that old ugly door was useful to you. I will be looking for further postings . keep it up.
Thanks bootsyj! I'm honored that you looked through the whole build. Sometimes I look back through it too so I can stay motivated and so i can realize that I'm actually getting somewhere with this thing. That "ugly door" is definitely coming in handy. I'll skin it with some 1/8" steel and it will be the tits!
Thanks again for hooking me up with that upper and lower door. Without that door I couldn't have made the passenger side door to match.Need advise:
Hey guys, I need some advise. I'm looking for power plants for this thing. I've changed my original goal of running a 4.0L as I've realized that I have quite a few other choices in the same price point. Let me know what you think about these...
99 and later chevy iron block 5.3L truck engine mated to ax-15 (or NV-3550) & np-231 (or possibly a SM465 trans). the chevy will get a mild computer tune so it's still fuel efficient and dependable and flowmasters. Nothing else at this point.
OR a 89-93 5.0L Mass air flow ford 302 small block mated to ax-15 (or NV3550) and NP231 t-case. I'll add a set of flowmasters, home built h-pipes and my brother has some othertake off parts from his 89 5.0L that he said I could have to add a little more power.
Remember that I'll be running 5.13 gears in either option with the 36" iroks. I have a sweet spot for the ford 302 and I think that would make a really unique power plant and it's super cheap to build BUT they're older and harder to come by. The 5.3L is every-damn-where and the aftermarket is getting more affordable. Also, I will only run a manual transmission. They are more fun for me than autos and I think shifting backwards will be pretty cool.
I'm also thinking best bang for the buck + fuel economy + ease of install and mild tune for power on either option. With a sub 4000lb jeep, 5.13 gears and 36" tires, either one will have plenty (if not too much) power.
Hey guys, I need some advise. I'm looking for power plants for this thing. I've changed my original goal of running a 4.0L as I've realized that I have quite a few other choices in the same price point. Let me know what you think about these...
99 and later chevy iron block 5.3L truck engine mated to ax-15 (or NV-3550) & np-231 (or possibly a SM465 trans). the chevy will get a mild computer tune so it's still fuel efficient and dependable and flowmasters. Nothing else at this point.
OR a 89-93 5.0L Mass air flow ford 302 small block mated to ax-15 (or NV3550) and NP231 t-case. I'll add a set of flowmasters, home built h-pipes and my brother has some othertake off parts from his 89 5.0L that he said I could have to add a little more power.
Remember that I'll be running 5.13 gears in either option with the 36" iroks. I have a sweet spot for the ford 302 and I think that would make a really unique power plant and it's super cheap to build BUT they're older and harder to come by. The 5.3L is every-damn-where and the aftermarket is getting more affordable. Also, I will only run a manual transmission. They are more fun for me than autos and I think shifting backwards will be pretty cool.
I'm also thinking best bang for the buck + fuel economy + ease of install and mild tune for power on either option. With a sub 4000lb jeep, 5.13 gears and 36" tires, either one will have plenty (if not too much) power.bigblueyj
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Location
- Woodlawn, VA
Man on the motor, I'm kind of a Chevy man. I run an LT1 in my Jeep and I love the fuel injection. But on the other hand, a nice torquey Ford would go good too. I think I'd look at a weight for the motors. With that being said maybe the Ford is the way to go? Either way it's like I've said before, I love this build and I'm subscribed to it. Keep it up because it's only getting cooler.
I have a 5.3/NV4500 combo in my FJ40 and love it. The bang for buck that the 5.3 delivers is what led me to the LS motors. I have no experience with Ford motors, so I may be biased. Either way, slap a V8 in it and you'll be smiling from gear to gear.
amajeepman
I've got a Scriped Strew
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2006
- Location
- Charlotte
Ive got a friend with a running lt1 motor for cheap. Let me know if you might be interested in that.
russxj
New Member
- Joined
- May 7, 2011
- Location
- high point nc
I will NEVER look at a postal jeep the same again! Great Build!
From what I've heard the Ford 302 is a little lighter. Maybe 40lbs or so. Not really a big savings. I like the simplicity of the ford EFI setup since I'm not wiring whiz or anything.
did you need an adapter for the 5.3/nv4500 combo or was the nv4500 a transmission option? what year transmission? was setting up the hydraulic clutch hard?
Is that Bobby's that he's trying to sell? He was telling me about it at Marsfab the other week. That isn't a bad option at all. I think the 5.3 will have more aftermarket support though. shoot me a PM with what he's wanting to get out of it and what type of mileage that engine has.
I'll take that as a compliment.
Does anyone have any good places to get salvage yard engines?
baby hulk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2008
- Location
- concord nc
I just wonted u to now that one off my fantasies is to ride in a lift mail jeep with a v8 and mud tire's. 
UncleWillie
Rarely serious.
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2010
- Location
- Vale
You might want to think about a TBI Chevy engine. Before I get flamed hear this. There is a huge aftermarket for them. The TBI can be modified very easily to perform better. It is a very simple setup. It will run upside down. You can sling a dead cat and hit one so no problem locating one. They are cheap.
Put it in front of a 4l80e if you want an auto or a NV4500 for a stick for a great combo that will work forever.
Put it in front of a 4l80e if you want an auto or a NV4500 for a stick for a great combo that will work forever.
criket
Blue Ridge 4x4
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2010
- Location
- Dobson, NC
ncgamedog
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
Some info that might help you decide:
Suspension & Engine Weight
You'll be replacing one of three factory engines. Their nominal estimated, accessory loaded weights are:
•2.8L V6, 365 lbs.
•2.5L I4, 340 lbs.
•4.0L I6, 515 lbs.
Engines you may replace these with may include:
•Chevy 4.3L V6, 425 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen. I & II), 550 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen. III+), 470 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (LS1), 407 lbs.
•Buick 90 degree V6, 375 lbs.
•Buick 60 degree V6, 350 lbs.
•Ford 302, 460 lbs.
•Ford 5.0L, 450 lbs.
•Ford 351 (Windsor), 515 lbs.
Factory springs are usually great for most Small Block V6 and V8 engines. We have replaced four-cylinder Jeep engines with V8's and noticed no sag or overly soft ride in the front axle.
^^^
I figured this is relevant since your running stock YJ springs.
This info came from the Novak site on their knowledge page for YJ engine swaps.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/yj_87_95_swap.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/fsb_swap_yj_87-95.htm
I would also ditch the idea of running an AX-15 behind a V8, there are much better options for manual trannys. If you go Ford I would look at an Np435 or T-18/19. Better 1st gear ratio and much more compact, giving you a longer rear driveline. For Chevy, SM420 or SM465. The NV4500 would be nice too for the overdrive, if you can fit it length wise. If this is offroad only or the majority of the time, I would stay with the older 4-speeds for cost and packaging.
For a ford engine, the C4 automatic is a great swap for a lighter rig like this. Its a 3speed, and very compact for an auto tranny. They can be built very strong, and are pretty respectable in good stock working order.
Another thing to consider, if highway time is a major parameter, is the engine RPM's you'll be turning at cruising speed. Most all of the early 4-speed manuals have a direct drive 4th gear (1:1). Given that, the 36" tire diameter, and the 5.13's in the diffs, you'd be turning over 3k RPM at 65 MPH.
That's a little higher than I'd wanna be spinning it, but its doable. Here's another link to the Novak site that can be fun to mess around with:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/gearing.htm
If your not going to spend a ton of time on the road, the 5.13's will be fine. However, in a D44 that's a little on the steep side for V8 power/torque. Not to mention you'll have to be easy on the throttle to save the shafts too. It's certainly debatable if a 44 will hold up to V8 power, and I'm sure there are many folks who have had good success with it. I'd say you're right on the border line by running 36's, but compounded with the deep gears, it'd be and area of concern for me personally. Nothing wrong with running till it pops though (and it may never), I totally understand the value in running what you have.
Not sure what transfer case you're thinking about, but being driver drop, there aren't a ton of options. I'm not sure if an early bronco D20 is adaptable to the Ford 4 speeds, but should have come factory behind C4's. It's a good strong case and the EB version had a 2.46:1 low range (not too bad). The other option that sticks out is a flipped D300 which is pretty common. The 300 has a 2.62 low range. I doubt a full size case, such as a NP205, would be a good option for size reasons.
In general, I feel like its best to get your low gearing from the trans and t-case and gear the diffs to match the tire size. With a V8 you can stand to go with a shorter (numerically lower) gear in the diff, because the power and torque is there from the engine to get you moving.
In conclusion, there are lots of good options out there, hopefully some of this ramble will give you some stuff to think about. I have to say if it were mine, I'd go with a Ford 5.0L from a mustang, a C4 auto, and an early bronco Dana 20. That gives you fuel injection, cheap parts availability, lots of aftermarket support, good drivetrain strength with decent gearing, all in a very lightweight compact package. That being said, I'm not really a Ford guy or an auto fan, but that seems to be the best fit for THIS rig. Of course thats just my opinion...
Good luck and keep up the good work.
Suspension & Engine Weight
You'll be replacing one of three factory engines. Their nominal estimated, accessory loaded weights are:
•2.8L V6, 365 lbs.
•2.5L I4, 340 lbs.
•4.0L I6, 515 lbs.
Engines you may replace these with may include:
•Chevy 4.3L V6, 425 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen. I & II), 550 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen. III+), 470 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (LS1), 407 lbs.
•Buick 90 degree V6, 375 lbs.
•Buick 60 degree V6, 350 lbs.
•Ford 302, 460 lbs.
•Ford 5.0L, 450 lbs.
•Ford 351 (Windsor), 515 lbs.
Factory springs are usually great for most Small Block V6 and V8 engines. We have replaced four-cylinder Jeep engines with V8's and noticed no sag or overly soft ride in the front axle.
^^^
I figured this is relevant since your running stock YJ springs.
This info came from the Novak site on their knowledge page for YJ engine swaps.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/yj_87_95_swap.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/fsb_swap_yj_87-95.htm
I would also ditch the idea of running an AX-15 behind a V8, there are much better options for manual trannys. If you go Ford I would look at an Np435 or T-18/19. Better 1st gear ratio and much more compact, giving you a longer rear driveline. For Chevy, SM420 or SM465. The NV4500 would be nice too for the overdrive, if you can fit it length wise. If this is offroad only or the majority of the time, I would stay with the older 4-speeds for cost and packaging.
For a ford engine, the C4 automatic is a great swap for a lighter rig like this. Its a 3speed, and very compact for an auto tranny. They can be built very strong, and are pretty respectable in good stock working order.
Another thing to consider, if highway time is a major parameter, is the engine RPM's you'll be turning at cruising speed. Most all of the early 4-speed manuals have a direct drive 4th gear (1:1). Given that, the 36" tire diameter, and the 5.13's in the diffs, you'd be turning over 3k RPM at 65 MPH.
That's a little higher than I'd wanna be spinning it, but its doable. Here's another link to the Novak site that can be fun to mess around with:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/gearing.htm
If your not going to spend a ton of time on the road, the 5.13's will be fine. However, in a D44 that's a little on the steep side for V8 power/torque. Not to mention you'll have to be easy on the throttle to save the shafts too. It's certainly debatable if a 44 will hold up to V8 power, and I'm sure there are many folks who have had good success with it. I'd say you're right on the border line by running 36's, but compounded with the deep gears, it'd be and area of concern for me personally. Nothing wrong with running till it pops though (and it may never), I totally understand the value in running what you have.
Not sure what transfer case you're thinking about, but being driver drop, there aren't a ton of options. I'm not sure if an early bronco D20 is adaptable to the Ford 4 speeds, but should have come factory behind C4's. It's a good strong case and the EB version had a 2.46:1 low range (not too bad). The other option that sticks out is a flipped D300 which is pretty common. The 300 has a 2.62 low range. I doubt a full size case, such as a NP205, would be a good option for size reasons.
In general, I feel like its best to get your low gearing from the trans and t-case and gear the diffs to match the tire size. With a V8 you can stand to go with a shorter (numerically lower) gear in the diff, because the power and torque is there from the engine to get you moving.
In conclusion, there are lots of good options out there, hopefully some of this ramble will give you some stuff to think about. I have to say if it were mine, I'd go with a Ford 5.0L from a mustang, a C4 auto, and an early bronco Dana 20. That gives you fuel injection, cheap parts availability, lots of aftermarket support, good drivetrain strength with decent gearing, all in a very lightweight compact package. That being said, I'm not really a Ford guy or an auto fan, but that seems to be the best fit for THIS rig. Of course thats just my opinion...
Good luck and keep up the good work.
I hope this helps.
I simply got a bell housing from a 6.0 that came in front of the NV4500. My NV4500 is out of a '98 3500. My 5.3 is out of an '02 Silverado.
*Note* If you run a 5.3L in front of a manual transmission you will have to get a spacer for the rear of the crank, or a slightly thicker flywheel. I found when doing my conversion that the 5.3 cranks stick out of the block different lengths than the 4.8, 6.0 and 5.7. I also read that 5.3L's never came in front of a manual transmission. I couldn't believe it.
Setting up the hydraulic clutch was no issue at all. It's just a matter of running a hydro master down a line to the slave.
If I had it all to do over again, I would have initially spent a little more coin on a 6.0L. I say this because of the time it took me to figure out the flywheel difference, and the money I spent on getting a special thicker flywheel from Summit, I could have found more readily available 6.0L stuff. But, whatever.
Also, the NV4500 is a heavy pig, and long, compared to say a SM465. ...And people seem to want a small fortune for them. I bought mine from someone who said it was a fresh rebuild for $700, only to put it in, get it running and have to pull it right back out again to rebuild it. All of the synchros were shot. I could go on..
I ended up with about $1300 in it in the end.
If I REALLY had it all to do over again, it would've been a 6.0L/TH400. But then again, on the street rowing through the gears is fun stuff.
I simply got a bell housing from a 6.0 that came in front of the NV4500. My NV4500 is out of a '98 3500. My 5.3 is out of an '02 Silverado.
*Note* If you run a 5.3L in front of a manual transmission you will have to get a spacer for the rear of the crank, or a slightly thicker flywheel. I found when doing my conversion that the 5.3 cranks stick out of the block different lengths than the 4.8, 6.0 and 5.7. I also read that 5.3L's never came in front of a manual transmission. I couldn't believe it.
Setting up the hydraulic clutch was no issue at all. It's just a matter of running a hydro master down a line to the slave.
If I had it all to do over again, I would have initially spent a little more coin on a 6.0L. I say this because of the time it took me to figure out the flywheel difference, and the money I spent on getting a special thicker flywheel from Summit, I could have found more readily available 6.0L stuff. But, whatever.
Also, the NV4500 is a heavy pig, and long, compared to say a SM465. ...And people seem to want a small fortune for them. I bought mine from someone who said it was a fresh rebuild for $700, only to put it in, get it running and have to pull it right back out again to rebuild it. All of the synchros were shot. I could go on..
I ended up with about $1300 in it in the end. If I REALLY had it all to do over again, it would've been a 6.0L/TH400. But then again, on the street rowing through the gears is fun stuff.
bigblueyj
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Location
- Woodlawn, VA
Like I said on my previous post, I run an LT1 in my YJ backed by an NV4500 with a 231. I run 36 inch swamper sx's on it. I love the power and the pep of the LT1. The ONLY downside to it is the distributor being right under the waterpump. However If I was to do it over, I'd throw in a 5.3 instead.
I'm sure no matter what combo you decide to go with, it'll get a lot of attention, and we'll all still love this build. Keep it up.
I'm sure no matter what combo you decide to go with, it'll get a lot of attention, and we'll all still love this build. Keep it up.
I just wonted u to now that one off my fantasies is to ride in a lift mail jeep with a v8 and mud tire's.
Well hit me up at an event sometime when I get this turd done and I'll take you for a ride.
Well said! I love the old TBI350 engines. You're right, super simple, they run forever and are super dependable. The only problem with them now is that it's hard to find one without a bazillion miles on it. I am wanting to find one that does not need a rebuild. Simply because a rebuild means more $$. That is the problem I'm finding with the old 5.0L ford engines too. I really appreciate the input.
Definitely!
Some info that might help you decide:
In conclusion, there are lots of good options out there, hopefully some of this ramble will give you some stuff to think about. I have to say if it were mine, I'd go with a Ford 5.0L from a mustang, a C4 auto, and an early bronco Dana 20. That gives you fuel injection, cheap parts availability, lots of aftermarket support, good drivetrain strength with decent gearing, all in a very lightweight compact package. That being said, I'm not really a Ford guy or an auto fan, but that seems to be the best fit for THIS rig. Of course thats just my opinion...
Good luck and keep up the good work.
Wow that is some great info. I've been looking at the novak site for two days and I missed half of that info.
The 5.13s will definitely be really really low for a 4spd and v8. I am hoping the 44 will hold up okay. It should. I'm really reasonable with my driving style and hopefully with such a low ratio, I won't be doing much spinning and more crawling. I simply got a bell housing from a 6.0 that came in front of the NV4500. My NV4500 is out of a '98 3500. My 5.3 is out of an '02 Silverado.
*Note* If you run a 5.3L in front of a manual transmission you will have to get a spacer for the rear of the crank, or a slightly thicker flywheel. I found when doing my conversion that the 5.3 cranks stick out of the block different lengths than the 4.8, 6.0 and 5.7. I also read that 5.3L's never came in front of a manual transmission. I couldn't believe it.
Setting up the hydraulic clutch was no issue at all. It's just a matter of running a hydro master down a line to the slave.
If I had it all to do over again, I would have initially spent a little more coin on a 6.0L. I say this because of the time it took me to figure out the flywheel difference, and the money I spent on getting a special thicker flywheel from Summit, I could have found more readily available 6.0L stuff. But, whatever.
Also, the NV4500 is a heavy pig, and long, compared to say a SM465. ...And people seem to want a small fortune for them. I bought mine from someone who said it was a fresh rebuild for $700, only to put it in, get it running and have to pull it right back out again to rebuild it. All of the synchros were shot. I could go on..
If I REALLY had it all to do over again, it would've been a 6.0L/TH400. But then again, on the street rowing through the gears is fun stuff.
Definitely agree. There is something cool about driving on the right side and slamming gears with my left hand.
I'm really looking hard into the sm465 since my wheelbase is so short and I'm trying my best to keep this thing really light. I've read that you can run a 4.8L or 6.0L flywheel on the 5.3L. You hear anything about this? A 6.0L would be sweet but i'm afraid my DJ-5 would turn into a pretzel if I went with that much power. The 5.3L would be hard enough on it. Thanks man! I definitely want this thing to turn out nice and I've been stressing over the drivetrain for months. Once I get the one of the components (motor/trans/transfer case) I can piece the rest of it together.
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
Could always do a rmvb in an auto & get both worlds
Cscotty89
Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2012
- Location
- Ft.Bragg,NC
First post on the site. I read this whole post...I need more lol! Awesome build! I'm looking to start one myself in the near future.
freaknajeep
Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Location
- tupelo ms
well i got DJ home today... its a 71 and has what appears to be a ford inline 6 even tho i was farily sure i thought the 232 was made by chevy but it definitly has a ford starter....since you have the lock down on the "Gone Postal" thing gonna have to come up with a catchy name/title for my build/toy...looking at what it looks like stock in my yard compared to where you are at now with your give me excitement as well as a twinge of disappointment at the same time...even tho it will be linked with a 60 rear and 44 front within 2 weeks i know i have a long long long way to go....but hey with a plasma and a welder all things are possible
freaknajeep
Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Location
- tupelo ms
^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ok so guess i can say duh im a d/a amc made an inline 232 i.e... the 4.0l wonder if that little radiator will keep a modern 4.0l cool??