"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

marty79 said:
I threaded a huge nut on there and did couple passes...its . Since someone pointed out the whole steering is dependent on my welds...that is the only thing I'm confident about hahaha (true though)
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please post a better picture.
 
I really want to point that pinion up more but what y'all think..when almost dropped all the way the driveshaft clears and joints have 1/8"clearance of making out...still bothers me the way it looks though..its right at level now
Can I go another 6degrees or so without really harming the downforce on steering..thank u
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marty79 said:
I really want to point that pinion up more but what y'all think..when almost dropped all the way the driveshaft clears and joints have 1/8"clearance of making out...still bothers me the way it looks though..its right at level now
Can I go another 6degrees or so without really harming the downforce on steering..thank u
View attachment 247489
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Are you running the stock double cardan shaft? If so, the pinion needs to point at the tcase. If you're running a single u joint shaft, the piniin needs to be slightly above horizontal.

Btw, if u point the pinion up, you will likely need to cut and turn knuckles to have decent steering.
 
marty79 said:
I really want to point that pinion up more but what y'all think..when almost dropped all the way the driveshaft clears and joints have 1/8"clearance of making out...still bothers me the way it looks though..its right at level now
Can I go another 6degrees or so without really harming the downforce on steering..thank u
View attachment 247489
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What is the caster angle currently? Since this rig is offroad only, I'm guessing that you could get away with rotating the housing to 0 deg caster.
 
YJJPWrangler said:
I'm no mechanical engineer. I took one class of physics and understand the principles/mechanics of simple physics. That being said, that draglink is scary, stupid scary. With it setup like this, you are relying solely on the strength and integrity of your harbor freight welder/welds. I'll let the licensed PE engineers chime in to confirm.


You should have spent the money on a proper hi-steer setup instead of cobbling together this.... "thing". I'm going to be running SOA on my Willys and the steering setup is one of the most important aspects of vehicle safety. I will be spending the time and money to do it correctly and safely. You can't put a price tag on your life or the life of someone else. The fact that you took that down a gravel road at 40mph with no shocks is insane.
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I thought everybody drove their rig down the road with no shocks when they first got it done. I remember driving my Samurai down the street right after I put on YJ springs SPUA. It was like driving a drunken marshmallow. I only did that once, and didn't go as far as I planned to go since it was legitimately scary, lol.

That steering setup will most likely be fine. I previously posted that I have seen a friends very similar setup last for a couple of years before the dude moved away, and it was his DD and trail rig. Fuller has already stated that this is a trail only rig.
 
drkelly said:
What is the caster angle currently? Since this rig is offroad only, I'm guessing that you could get away with rotating the housing to 0 deg caster.
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Not sure but it looks pretty much where stock should be from reading up on it..I know little up won't hurt (2*) but I was wanting like 6or8 lol like the rear...
paradisePWoffrd said:
Btw, if u point the pinion up, you will likely need to cut and turn knuckles to have decent steering.
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Yeah but no access to a big welder
Jody Treadway said:
...or just run a HP front diff.
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Yeah that's for sure gonna be the 60
 
drkelly said:
I thought everybody drove their rig down the road with no shocks when they first got it done. I remember driving my Samurai down the street right after I put on YJ springs SPUA. It was like driving a drunken marshmallow. I only did that once, and didn't go as far as I planned to go since it was legitimately scary, lol.

That steering setup will most likely be fine. I previously posted that I have seen a friends very similar setup last for a couple of years before the dude moved away, and it was his DD and trail rig. Fuller has already stated that this is a trail only rig.
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Yep my reasoning for doing it..plus seen it ran by many other very similar setup on bigger rigs so it will work...ill get a 60 before it has chance to "wear out" then steering will be "normal" lol
 
The pinion angle looks about right. Just look at any low pinion front axle whether it be a gm/dodge 60, waggy 44, 30, whatever.
The pinion angle is flat.
 
bring back the white Cherokee on cut thornbirds
 
1stgenxxx said:
bring back the white Cherokee on cut thornbirds
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Yeah I miss that jeep, it was quite the rig...for me anyways!! And those tires...whew they were a
 
Well got shocks mounted up!
I actually cut a whole piece to plate the frame with on steering box side..even made holes for bolts to go through (this is epic for john fuller LOL) and it goes all the way down past shock mounts.
Made a track bar too!
Steers weird though?? Maybe I'm not used to be in joints or need to take all the slack out of them??..it just seems so loose even with track bar no difference even though I can see the stiffness from the track bar added..so gonna start with taking slack out of heim at the draglink first and see what that does
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Tie rod is really tight, I did the rubber bushing thing. I guess drag link needs it too
 
Is this what's hurting my steering..like all the play I'm feeling in it is from this heim having too much movement?
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Jody Treadway said:
When you remove the track bar, how much better is the steering?
Ever heard about how a drag link and track bar need to.be parallel with each other?
When they form an "X" that's far removed from a "=".
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Well track bar did help a lot believe it or not...before the body would shift quite a bit then turn now it starts to steer right away but most of the play I guess is when you go back and forth I guess..mostly
 
marty79 said:
Well track bar did help a lot believe it or not...before the body would shift quite a bit then turn now it starts to steer right away but most of the play I guess is when you go back and forth I guess..mostly
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What about when the axle goes up and down and articulates?

You are going to have an epic case of bump steer with that setup. I.e.: fix that now.

Drag link and track bar(panhard) should be equal length and parallel.
 
I would ditch that track bar. Since you are not driving it on the road, you really shouldn't need it, especially with leaf spring packs that are that heavy. If you were driving it on the road I would still tell you to ditch that track bar because it is going to give you some VERY weird steering characteristics as the vehicle moves up and down, and you would likely end up somewhere you didn't want to be. Offroad it is going to limit your suspension travel as your springs want to travel straight up and down and the track bar is trying to pull it to the side.

If you have loose steering it could be slop in the box or input of the box. Otherwise it is due to a loose joint, bushing deflection in the shackles/springs or deflection in your steering bracketry/contraption. Have someone turn the wheel with the vehicle off while you watch each joint for slop or deflection.
 
That steering setup is always going to have a big dead spot in it.
 
NC-V said:
I would ditch that track bar. Since you are not driving it on the road, you really shouldn't need it, especially with leaf spring packs that are that heavy. If you were driving it on the road I would still tell you to ditch that track bar because it is going to give you some VERY weird steering characteristics as the vehicle moves up and down, and you would likely end up somewhere you didn't want to be. Offroad it is going to limit your suspension travel as your springs want to travel straight up and down and the track bar is trying to pull it to the side.

If you have loose steering it could be slop in the box or input of the box. Otherwise it is due to a loose joint, bushing deflection in the shackles/springs or deflection in your steering bracketry/contraption. Have someone turn the wheel with the vehicle off while you watch each joint for slop or deflection.
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I guess tomorrow I will take it off and start with the drag link heim joint and get all the slop out of it..this picture shows the axle side heim on drag link and it moves a lot so I guess I need to take that slop out??
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Leaf springs and a track bar don't work well together. They bind as they work against each other. Jeep tried it on the YJ and it didn't work then either.
 
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