"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

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Just checking in on this dumpster fire...yep, still burning. Carry on.
 
Mac5005 said:
Well built rigs have broken on trail heads and people have died and been injured due to steering problems.

Steering is no place to half ass. It is that critical and shouldn't be taken lightly.
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I agree! There's a reason I've missed last 2open rides and it's not until my steering feels up to par will it be ready to go. Sure I can't prevent everything but I know how my last jeep steered with welded front and this one just isn't there yet. Wj pump, piston mod, and cooler are set and working great (can dry steer these 37s easy) but once rolling just hasn't "felt" right...then I found loose bolt yesterday on drag link, stupid me. Later today will tinker and fix that and looks like it will fix the looseness.
 
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Why not try this?
 
One day really soon I may just have to ride up and visit this Mr fuller....

In a constructively assisting sort of manner. For the labor cost of having a few tires grooved by someone who's damn good at it, who knows what I might be willing to help with.
 
marty79 said:
Yeah but I'm used to that ...my yellow one steered flawlessly
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To be clear, your yellow one was not a 4 link. it was either 3 link, 5 link, or radius arm.

Do you have any mis-alignment spacers on the tierod? If so, that will allow it to rotate and make your dead spot larger.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
To be clear, your yellow one was not a 4 link. it was either 3 link, 5 link, or radius arm.

Do you have any mis-alignment spacers on the tierod? If so, that will allow it to rotate and make your dead spot larger.
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No took those out as told to..so that's what I was gonna try today on drag link is to remove those and limit the flex in it but tightening the bolt should fix it ...I think/hope since drag link can turn
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
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Why not try this?
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Daiiiiaammm..even I wouldn't go no where near that far with "cobbling" something together lol...wow whole new meaning to ghetto
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Do you have any mis-alignment spacers on the tierod? If so, that will allow it to rotate and make your dead spot larger.
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Now I understand the term "dead spot"..that's exactly what it does but a lot..so with drag link being able to turn (stupid me, loose bolt) and too much flex maybe in that heim it should become more "normal"...will find out later
 
marty79 said:
Now I understand the term "dead spot"..that's exactly what it does but a lot..so with drag link being able to turn (stupid me, loose bolt) and too much flex maybe in that heim it should become more "normal"...will find out later
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Did the misalignment spacers change to through bolt size and if so now you have play from the wrong size bolts
 
Mac5005 said:
Did the misalignment spacers change to through bolt size and if so now you have play from the wrong size bolts
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The heim is 7/8 designed to go with 3/4bolt so I drilled the arms for 3/4 and all is tight/right..
Unless I'm missing something
 
marty79 said:
The heim is 7/8 designed to go with 3/4bolt so I drilled the arms for 3/4 and all is tight/right..
Unless I'm missing something
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Depend on the misalignment spacers and the heim.

Some of the spacers go inside the heim ball to reduce from 7/8-3/4.

Some fit against the ball and are same size as the ball hole.

I have no idea what you have. But if the misalignment spacers necked down the bolt size, now you have a 3/4 bolt in a 7/8 heim.

If not, carry on.
 
Well tightened up drag link..its better.
Drove without track bar...HECK NO lol
Drove with track bar...big difference.

Main problem is the long bracket I made onto tie rod. Tie rod has small 1/8side to side play...well since my bracket is 8-9"tall, that 1/8"play transfers into 7/8"-1" of play up top:(, soo now either wheel it like it is or back to drawing board.
Bad part is (I'm sure you all AGREE) there's no more to do at the drawing board lol lol. So I guess for now ill wheel it little easier till I get some $ to upgrade.
Oh, I did the rubber bushings on tie rod heim and WOW, worked awesome....for like 2 turns and not the cheap is. I guess welded front turning 37s is A LOT of force and they broke off..boy it was nice tight steering though when tie rod was held stiff with no play at all.

Any ideas of how I can get the tie rod to have NO PLAY in the heim besides the rubber idea.
 
marty79 said:
.

Main problem is the long bracket I made onto tie rod. Tie rod has small 1/8side to side play...well since my bracket is 8-9"tall, that 1/8"play transfers into 7/8"-1" of play up top:(, soo now either wheel it like it is or back to drawing board.
.
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Everyone told you that this was gonna be the case.


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
How do your leafs suck so bad that you cant drive without a trac bar? I've driven plenty of rigs with leaves up front and no trac bar
 
Probably because the axle is not straight, and the shackles seem a little flimsy... I have never had a Trac bar on any of my leaf sprung trucks, all drove fine...
 
krehel24 said:
Probably because the axle is not straight, and the shackles seem a little flimsy... I have never had a Trac bar on any of my leaf sprung trucks, all drove fine...
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Ok ok it drives fine without it...remember I did 40 with no shocks lol. However with track bar and crawling like I would a trail, track bar are like 40%difference. Like Mac5005 used similar,.. Several xj leaf packs together with 2main leafs so it flexes real good but soft ride still, so they give a lot. Track bar just takes away an extra 20%body movement that's all.
Stiff chevy leafs and I'm sure track bar wouldn't notice much
 
Here's how much the leafs give, especially the uptravel, and yes the front of leafs aren't tied together so the pinion rotates up a little rather than staying level (my yellow xj did real good in the rear like that)
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So crazy question but its...me lol.
Couldn't I (not me but a 220welder) weld a bracket to the top of knuckle and the to my drag link mount on tie rod which would hold it from moving..its my understanding knuckle on top is cast steel so 220 should burn it in pretty good. And since axle is junk who cares!! Plus what's the worst that could happen? Brakes the welds (doubt it) and I have the dead spot back in it? Maybe? Worth a try...
Rest of steering is good, rides good, just if I could get the tie rod to stay put that would be golden!
 
And I thou
Jody Treadway said:
1- install a high steer arm on passenger side (we told you this)
2- your track bar is attached backwards (we told you this)
3- there are steps required when welding to cast iron/etc above what's required to weld to steel. (we will have told you that)
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And I thought I was persistent lol lol. I know this but gotta use it now that its done lol, at least once or twice :D
 
just because you use a 220 welder doesn't mean you'll have a successful weld from the cast/steel
Both metals must be very clean, preheat, correct rod, post heat, ect.
I don't think it's worth the risk
 
Jody Treadway said:
3- there are steps required when welding to cast iron/etc above what's required to weld to steel. (we will have told you that)
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Thats funny right there
 
1stgenxxx said:
just because you use a 220 welder doesn't mean you'll have a successful weld from the cast/steel
Both metals must be very clean, preheat, correct rod, post heat, ect.
I don't think it's worth the risk
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It wouldn't be me, it would be a professional welder so he would know all the proper steps..it was thought
 
Jody Treadway said:
your track bar is attached backwards (we told you this)
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This is my last concern hehe, it works and deal with that cheap later, got more important issues at hand haha
 
marty79 said:
It wouldn't be me, it would be a professional welder so he would know all the proper steps..it was thought
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Im sure most professional welders would turn that job down due to legal reasons
 
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