Oh, I see what you mean. Yes - that's how I've seen them come. The only difference for the wider bushing was a longer sleeve. I've also pulled bushings out of leaf springs that were set up the same way.
Just because you have a few chain driven t cases laying around doesn't mean you wanna replace the rear case each time you take it out. The doubler is going to add a lot of stress to that rear chain/case. 205 is a heavy bitch but it's strong as hell and fairly cheap.
Honestly there are so many Facebook groups for 4wheeling if you post up that your looking for a doubler you can find them decently cheap or the kits to build a doubler when I was looking. I found new kits that had been on a shelf for a few years for a couple hundred bucks and found doubler set ups from 450-1200
Dang it guys what the hell is going on around here...yall stop with this "listening spell" y'all put over me haha. Well I gave it lots of thought about everyone's input on the doubler setup and after finishing all the frame plating and studying my setup and such, looking at my proposed doubler idea, I began to realize IF and WHEN this doubler "trial" fails, it's gonna be with RPMs probably on a red trail probably steep trail and become a trail clog (hard to evac one at that). So we don't want that!!! I've done really good up till now to not be a trail plug and now isn't the time to start.
So I installed the 242 for now gonna continue with front setup and then the rear and get this done for now. Save up for either D300 or whatever ever other combo doubler is most logical/affordable and tough. This way I know I can get out and really enjoy these 60s on 37s for while to break em in!
Thanks for the input yall
If it’s second gen dodge axles it should be 1350 but measure to be sure. Hell take the yoke off and take it with you to the parts store. They make a conversion joint too so you can run a 1350 pinion yoke and 1310 driveshaft yoke.
If it’s second gen dodge axles it should be 1350 but measure to be sure. Hell take the yoke off and take it with you to the parts store. They make a conversion joint too so you can run a 1350 pinion yoke and 1310 driveshaft yoke.
Ok gentlemen so this is where my pinion is good for my driveshaft angle BUT caster is forward like 2degrees...pre presure that's unacceptable right?
How big a pain is it to grind away to turn the Car? What yall think
Need to decide here before I can start my links. Thanks very much for all help so far!
Huh??? I've never done that in all my years. IvI' only ever done it this way.
How do I know where the ride height of axle without the spring in place and weight of Jeep on em?
Huh??? I've never done that in all my years. IvI' only ever done it this way.
How do I know where the ride height of axle without the spring in place and weight of Jeep on em?
Well, you sorta just said so...you said that the suspension will squat another 2-3" with the weight on the springs...so, measure the static height of the spring, subtract however much you anticipate the spring compressing, and that's your static ride height (relationship) between axle and frame.
Huh??? I've never done that in all my years. IvI' only ever done it this way.
How do I know where the ride height of axle without the spring in place and weight of Jeep on em?
Yeah I've got the CV yoke. I'm not concerned about driveshaft at all, I've always done really good with pinion angles and driveshafts!
I'm just a little concerned about that positive caster that's all