"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

a_kelley said:
@Scooter402

Good catch. It's been a few (14) years.
Click to expand...
Eh, it's still fresh in my mind... just finished my BS Physics last fall. ...although it took me 10 years to do it. Started waaaay too late in life on that mess!
 
marty79 said:
currently the rear is stock XJ front springs

wish I could but no yokes yet. the driveshaft will have plenty of travel in it. it's got plenty of pinion angle
Click to expand...

Pinion angle wont likely be the problem. ujoint angle at the tcase is usually the limiter.
 
Scooter402 said:
mmm...I love it when you talk Physics to me. :D

But for springs, the spring equation is F=-kx. The equation you posted is work to compress/stretch a spring, or energy stored in the spring once it's moved. So that would be W=1/2kx^2.
Click to expand...

John,

Use these equations to calculate your weight. You can calculate the spring rate based on the coils, and use the compression to know the amount of weight sitting ontop of the springs.

Using that number, with the spring rate of your TJ springs, you can understand how much they will compress at ride height.
 
Get the driveshaft in,
Take springs out,
Put tires on.

Cycle everything and set bump stops for tire clearance

Set limit straps to keep driveshaft alive.

Measure total travel.

Get shocks and springs that work for your needed rate and travel.



All the hassle of finding/cutting springs and shocks,
I’d just save up and get some coil overs. This will take full advantage of your new link setup.

Get the springs and the valving right, and you won’t have to mess with it again.

Uptravel = ride quality.

Glad you have more spring weight than unsprung. At least it has a chance to ride well





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
47 pages. Somehow there is an intellectual conversation and reasonable fabrication mixed in, yet there is still confusion about a pinion yoke swap vs a conversion joint. I can't even...
 
Mac5005 said:
I’d just save up and get some coil overs. This will take full advantage of your new link setup.

Get the springs and the valving right, and you won’t have to mess with it again.
Click to expand...
Def in my plans!!
Mac5005 said:
Glad you have more spring weight than unsprung. At least it has a chance to ride well
Click to expand...
What exactly are you referring to here that it's good I have some descent weight on the body which sits on to of spring?
 
obullfish said:
I’d like to think in 47 pages i could have built a rocket ship to land on the moon but probably not. Can’t wait to see the tiger striped tater masher on the trails John.
Click to expand...
You and me both buddy. It's getting close
 
jeepinmatt said:
47 pages. Somehow there is an intellectual conversation and reasonable fabrication mixed in, yet there is still confusion about a pinion yoke swap vs a conversion joint. I can't even...
Click to expand...

I somebody's defense (not sure who however), I sent him a D60 1310 yoke last week. So, there's that much accomplished at least.
 
jeepinmatt said:
47 pages. Somehow there is an intellectual conversation and reasonable fabrication mixed in, yet there is still confusion about a pinion yoke swap vs a conversion joint. I can't even...
Click to expand...
Well you know me I'm quick to work slow to learn LOL but I'm extremely happy with how this is come along and close to done
 
marty79 said:
Def in my plans!!

What exactly are you referring to here that it's good I have some descent weight on the body which sits on to of spring?
Click to expand...

It’s good you have more sprung weight than unsprung.

Sprung weight is everything the springs hold up and half the weight of everything connecting the axles to chassis.

Everything not “held up” by the springs and attached to the axle is unsprung weight.

Things get quirky and tend to ride badly when the two amounts get close to each other.

You want the unsprung weight less than sprung so that the chassis can remain unaffected by suspension movement. This lets the suspension work without affecting what the chassis is doing = good handling and ride quality.

This is dependent on the right spring/valving combination as well.

It’s just much harder to get the suspension to preform well when the unsprung weight is almost equal or more than the sprung weight.

However less weight overall, is always better.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I somebody's defense (not sure who however), I sent him a D60 1310 yoke last week. So, there's that much accomplished at least.
Click to expand...
Teach a man to fish, give a man a fish, etc
 
Those front springs are going to be pretty stiff in the rear.

Most people that do the rear coil conversion notch into the frame or put the coil on the outside of the frame rail. Why did you put it directly under the frame?
 
1stgenxxx said:
Those front springs are going to be pretty stiff in the rear.

Most people that do the rear coil conversion notch into the frame or put the coil on the outside of the frame rail. Why did you put it directly under the frame?
Click to expand...
Well, when you've got 580+ pounds of cage being the back 2/3 of the vehicle, that definitely helps with softening up those springs!

Think of it this way - he's got the equivalent weight of a SBC sitting back there...
 
1stgenxxx said:
Those front springs are going to be pretty stiff in the rear.

Most people that do the rear coil conversion notch into the frame or put the coil on the outside of the frame rail. Why did you put it directly under the frame?
Click to expand...
Trust me those front springs are plenty soft in the rear lol
 
marty79 said:
Trust me those front springs are plenty soft in the rear lol
Click to expand...

You need a much longer free length to use those shocks you have, or move the upper mount up.
 
Scooter402 said:
Well, when you've got 580+ pounds of cage being the back 2/3 of the vehicle
Click to expand...
Technically speaking it's only about 300lbs of extra weight from factory since it's completely gutted it's easy 250-300lbs of factory crap that got stripped out of it.

Is there any reason I can't cut eye off and weld a bolt to the top of the shock on top in picture to bolt it in factory location
IMG_20180325_235056869_LL.jpg
 
And let's see some homemade limit strap ideas..yes I'm a cheap butt with some things we know this already so don't go there :D lol
 
My jeep used to have steel cabe for limit straps
 
marty79 said:
And let's see some homemade limit strap ideas..yes I'm a cheap butt with some things we know this already so don't go there :D lol
Click to expand...

Harbor Freight axle wraps.
 
Back
Top